3D Printing

3D Printed Parts

The parts in this kit are designed to be 3D printed with FDM based machines. STL files are oriented to print "as is". Parts require tight tolerances that might need adjustment of slice settings. Reference the suggested settings below.

CAD Files

The Fusion 360 source file is included and features original sketches and feature timeline along with easily editable user parameters. The parts can further be separated into small pieces for fitting on printers with smaller build volumes. Note: a STEP file is included for other 3D surface modeling programs such as Onshape, Solidworks and Rhino.

Share, Make, Remix

This master sword was originally designed by Garrett Kearney from Chaos Core Tech (Youtube Channel) – The files are open to remix and feature nice details. The parts have been modified to fit all of the electronics and available to download. You can check out Garrett's project build video on YouTube.

Garrett's original design was modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360. It contains solid bodies, sketches and parametric feature timeline. It's a great resource to check out! Download link below.

Settings

Use these settings as reference. Values listed were used in Cura slicing software.

  • 0.2mm Layer Height / 0.4mm nozzle
  • 0.38mm Line Width (inner & outer widths)
  • 40mm/s printing speed
  • 10% infill
  • Supports: No
  • Brim: 7mm

Translucent PLA Filament 

The parts in this project were 3D printed using translucent PLA filament. Check out the stuff by 3D Solutech Printer Filament.

2.85mm Translucent PLA – 3D Solutech Printer Filament 

De-Brim

The parts are printed so they lay flush when sandwiched together. We used a 7mm brim to ensure the parts are as flat as they can be to better align the two halves.  Use flush cutters to help remove the brim.

DeBurr

Next use a deburring tool or a hobby knife to clean up and smooth out the sharp edges.

 

Sanding

After the edges are smooth, you'll need to sand down the ends of the blades to make it is easy for the super glue to adhere parts together. 

We used a rough 120 grit sandpaper to quickly smooth out the ends.

Make sure to that test ends parts are flat and fit together without any gaps. 

Super Glue the Edges

Apply a generous amount of super glue to the edges and then carefully align the ends. We used StarBound Medium Dry super glue with a narrow tip to precisely add to the edges that meet together. Apply pressure to help parts adhere.

Hot Glue

Allow the super glue to dry. Next reinforce parts by adding hot glue to the inside of the blade sections. Apply a small amount of hot glue to each section of the blade and allow it to dry.

You can also speed up dry times by spraying each section with an Air Duster. This technique is used extensively later in the build. 

Painting

After all sections are dry and adhered, you can move on to painting!

We've seen the sword in purple or dark blue with gold trim, but you can mix it up with any colors you like! 

Acrylic paint with a thin brush helped to fill in the small details around the curvy scripts, but you can mask out sections and use an airbrush.

We needed about six coats of paint to evenly coat the handle.

This guide was first published on Jul 30, 2019. It was last updated on Jul 30, 2019. This page (3D Printing) was last updated on Sep 15, 2019.