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The Adafruit TPL5111 Reset Enable Timer is a stand-alone breakout that will turn any electronics into low-power electronics! It will take care of enabling & disabling your electronics using a built in timer that can vary from once-every 100ms up to once every two hours. Basically, the TPL will set an enable pin high periodically, adjustable by potentiometer or resistor, and turn on your project's power. It will then wait until a signal is received from the project to tell the TPL that it can safely disable the project by setting the enable pin low
This project will turn your Raspberry Pi Zero W into an ad-blocking local DNS server with Pi Hole. When it is asked for the IP address of ads.adserver.com (for example) it will return nothing! So you will never even connect to the ad server and get the ad. Your connection will be faster, less data, and no intrusive ads. It works great on computers, tablets, phones, etc. Even if you cannot run an ad-blocker plugin on your phone or tablet, this will work and ad-blocker-detectors can't tell you're running it.
We sure love the ATmega328 here at Adafruit, and we use them a lot for our own projects. The processor has plenty of GPIO, Analog inputs, hardware UART SPI and I2C, timers and PWM galore - just enough for most simple projects. METRO Mini is the culmination of years of playing with AVRs: we wanted to make a tiny, breadboard-friendly development board that is easy to use and is hacker friendly. Metro Mini can be programmed with the Arduino IDE (select 'UNO' in the boards dropdown)
I2C is incredibly popular because it uses only 2 wires, and like we said, multiple devices can share those wires, making it a great way to connect tons of sensors, drivers, expanders, without using all the microcontroller pins. The only bad news about I2C is that each I2C device must have a unique address - and the addresses only range from 0 to 127 (aka 0 to 0x7F hex). Since we deal with so many I2C devices we thought it would be handy to have a table with all the most common sensors and modules we encounter, and their I2C address!
The Adafruit Gemma M0 may look small and cute: round, about the size of a quarter, with friendly alligator-clip sew pads. But do not be fooled! The Gemma M0 is incredibly powerful! We've taken the same form factor we used for the original ATtiny85-based Gemma and gave it a power up. The Gemma M0 has swapped out the lightweight ATtiny85 for a ATSAMD21E18 powerhouse.
If you'd like a compact display, with buttons and a joystick - we've got what you're looking for. The Adafruit 128x64 OLED Bonnet for Raspberry Pi is the big sister to our mini PiOLED add-on. This version has 128x64 pixels (instead of 128x32) and a much larger screen besides. With the OLED display in the center, we had some space on either side so we added a 5-way joystick and two pushbuttons. Great for when you want to have a control interface for your project.
The Adafruit PiOLED is your little OLED pal, ready to snap onto any and all Raspberry Pi computers, to give you a little display. The PiOLED comes with a monochrome 128x32 OLED, with sharp white pixels. The OLED uses only the I2C pins so you have plenty of GPIO connections available for buttons, LEDs, sensors, etc. It's also nice and compact so it will fit into any case.
Aww yeah, it's the Feather you have been waiting for! The HUZZAH32 is our ESP32-based Feather, made with the official WROOM32 module. We packed everything you love about Feathers: built in USB-to-Serial converter, automatic bootloader reset, Lithium Ion/Polymer charger, and all the GPIO brought out so you can use it with any of our Feather Wings.
Metro is our series of microcontroller boards for use with the Arduino IDE. This new Metro board looks a whole lot like our original Metro 328, but with a huge upgrade. Instead of the ATmega328, this Metro features a ATSAMD21G18 chip, an ARM Cortex M0+. It's our first Metro that is designed for use with CircuitPython! CircuitPython is our beginner-oriented flavor of MicroPython - and as the name hints at, its a small but full-featured version of the popular Python programming language specifically for use with circuitry and electronics.
With some development boards, low power usage is an afterthought. Especially when price and usability is the main selling point. So what should you do when its time to turn around and make that project of yours run on a battery or solar? Sure you could try to hot-air that regulator off, or you could jerry-rig a relay. Or, use a 555? Ugh, the options aren't that great.
For many microcontrollers, adding audio input is easy with one of our analog microphone breakouts. But as you get to bigger and better microcontrollers and microcomputers, you'll find that you don't always have an analog input, or maybe you want to avoid the noise that can seep in with an analog mic system. Once you get past 8-bit micros, you will often find an I2S peripheral, that can take digital audio data in! That's where this I2S Microphone Breakout comes in.
Add motion, direction and orientation sensing to your Arduino project with this all-in-one 9-DOF sensor. Inside the chip are three sensors, one is a classic 3-axis accelerometer, which can tell you which direction is down towards the Earth (by measuring gravity) or how fast the board is accelerating in 3D space. The other is a 3-axis magnetometer that can sense where the strongest magnetic force is coming from, generally used to detect magnetic north. The third is a 3-axis gyroscope that can measure spin and twist. By combining this data you can REALLY orient yourself.
Bend all audio files to your will with the Adafruit Music Maker FeatherWing! It's a fun-size version of our Music Maker shield for Arduino! This powerful 'Wing features the VS1053, a chip that can decode a wide variety of audio formats such as MP3, AAC, Ogg Vorbis, WMA, MIDI, FLAC, WAV (PCM and ADPCM). You can do all sorts of stuff with the audio as well such as adjusting bass, treble, and volume digitally.
This Bonnet uses I2S a digital sound standard, so you get really crisp audio. The digital data goes right into the amplifier so there's no static like you hear from the headphone jack. And it's super easy to get started. Just plug in any 4 to 8 ohm speakers, up to 3 Watts, run our installer script on any Raspberry Pi, reboot and you're ready to jam!
The VL6180X is a Time of Flight distance sensor like no other you've used! The sensor contains a very tiny invisible laser source, and a matching sensor. The VL6180X can detect the "time of flight", or how long the light has taken to bounce back to the sensor. Since it uses a very narrow light source, it is good for determining distance of only the surface directly in front of it. Unlike sonars that bounce ultrasonic waves, the 'cone' of sensing is very narrow. Unlike IR distance sensors that try to measure the amount of light bounced, the VL6180X is much more precise and doesn't have linearity problems or 'double imaging' where you can't tell if an object is very far or very close.
If you've already got an Amazon Alexa or Echo dot in your home or office, you can easily add your very own devices. In this quick project we'll show how to use an Adafruit ESP8266 Feather HUZZAH to control NeoPixels or a relay. You can easily adapt the code to add any number of devices to a single Feather for all sorts of interactive home automation projects with ease!
The VL53L0X is a Time of Flight distance sensor like no other you've used! The sensor contains a very tiny invisible laser source, and a matching sensor. The VL53L0X can detect the "time of flight", or how long the light has taken to bounce back to the sensor. Since it uses a very narrow light source, it is good for determining distance of only the surface directly in front of it. Unlike sonars that bounce ultrasonic waves, the 'cone' of sensing is very narrow. Unlike IR distance sensors that try to measure the amount of light bounced, the VL53L0x is much more precise and doesn't have linearity problems or 'double imaging' where you can't tell if an object is very far or very close.
To get precision and accuracy out of your platinum (PT100 or PT1000) RTD you must use an amplifier that is designed to read the low resistance. Better yet, have an amplifier that can automatically adjust and compensate for the resistance of the connecting wires. If you're looking for a great RTD sensor, today is your lucky day because we have a lovely Adafruit RTD Sensor Amplifier with the MAX31865 breakout for use with any 2, 3 or 4 wire PT100 RTD!
Spice up your Feather project with a beautiful 2.4" touchscreen display shield with built in microSD card socket. This TFT display is 2.4" diagonal with a bright 4 white-LED backlight. You get 240x320 pixels with individual 16-bit color pixel control. It has way more resolution than a black and white 128x64 display. As a bonus, this display comes with a resistive touchscreen attached to it already, so you can detect finger presses anywhere on
Spin two DC motors or step one bi-polar or uni-polar stepper with up to 1.2A per channel using the DRV8833. This motor driver chip is a nice alternative to the TB6612 driver. Like that chip, you get 2 full H-bridges, but this chip is better for low voltage uses (can run from 2.7V up to 10.8V motor power) and has built in current limiting capability. We set it up for 1A current limiting so you don't get more than 2A per chip, but you can also disable the current limiting, or change it to a different limit!
Thermocouples are very sensitive, requiring a good amplifier with a cold-compensation reference, as well as calculations to handle any non-linearities. For a long time we've suggested our MAX31855K breakout, which works great but is only for K-type thermocouples. Now we're happy to offer a great new thermocouple amplifier/converter that can handle just about any type of thermocouple, and even has the ability to give you notification when the temperature goes out of range, or a fault occurs. Very fancy! This converter communicates over 4-wire SPI and can interface with any K, J, N, R, S, T, E, or B type thermocouple