These are instructions for v1.0 USBtinyISP. If your PCB looks a bit different, you probably have a v2.0 and should go here for the instructions.
The first step is to solder the kit together. If you've never soldered before, check the Preparation page for tutorials and more.
The next parts are the USB connector (big silver part), the 12.00MHz ceramic oscillator (the three pin part) and the ceramic capacitor (the small yellow part).
Both the capacitor and oscillator are nondirectional so they can go in either way. The USB connector can only go in one way, and snaps into place.
When you solder in the parts, make sure that you put plenty of solder on the two prongs that hold the USB connector in. These are mechanical connections: the solder actually acts as a 'glue' here, keeping the part fixed in place!
Next are the headers and the microcontroller socket. The 6-pin header has no direction so just put it in either way.
The 10-pin box header has a notch which should match the notch in the PCB graphic. (here it's closest to the microcontroller socket).
The right angle header JP3 should go in as shown, with the two prongs sticking out over the PCB.
The microcontroller socket also has to go so that the notch in the end matches the drawing. Here it's on the right. If you mess it up it's not the end of the world, just remember to put the microcontroller in the right way!
When you solder it in, it might be tough to keep the parts in place. you can try 'tacking' the parts in place by holding it in with a finger and soldering one or two corners as shown.
Then go back and solder each and every connection
Place the LEDs as shown, the red one near the 10-pin header and the green one near the USB plug.
LEDs are directional and if you put them in backwards they won't light up. To figure out which way is right, look on the PCB, at the image of the LED. One side of the image is slightly flattened. That indicates the negative side. The LEDs have one lead that is shorter than the other. The short lead is also negative.
In this image, the negative side for the green LED is on the left. The negative side for the red LED is towards the top.
Instead of making the LEDs sit flat against the PCB, bend the leads at the 1/2" mark you made so they stick out. Solder them in place.
Soldering's done. Next up, insert the microcontroller. You can do this by gently bending the legs in using your fingertips or the tabletop.
Make sure it's inserted as shown, and press it in so it's seated well into the socket.
There are two standards for AVR programming, 6-pin and the 10-pin headers. Therefore, it's important that an AVR programmer have both types of cables. The 10-pin cables are easy to come by, but the 6-pin ones must be custom made. However, making a cable is super easy, just follow these steps!
If you're using the adaptor for a spokepov or don't need the 6pin cable, you can just skip this part.
Do not use needlenose pliers to try to press the pieces together. You have to have very flat pressure from both sides.
For example, use the flat side of a tool to press against a table top.
Plug in the two cables as shown, the red stripes on top and so that the cables don't bend over the plug (the case won't fit).
Put the PCB into the bottom case half.
The 6-pin cable may have strain reliefs that can clip on. You don't really need them but if you do want strain relief, put it on the one that goes to the target: the cable won't fit in the case if the strain-relief bit is on.