V1.0 instructions!

These are instructions for v1.0 USBtinyISP. If your PCB looks a bit different, you probably have a v2.0 and should go here for the instructions.

Its very unlikely you have a v1.0 but we're keeping it around for historical record

Solder it!

The first step is to solder the kit together. If you've never soldered before, check the Preparation page for tutorials and more.

Check the kit to verify you have all the parts necessary (the 0.1uF capacitor is missing, oops!).
Get your tools ready! A board vise, soldering iron & solder , diagonal cutters, and a solder sucker (desoldering tool) if you have one.
Put the PCB in the vise & heat up the soldering iron so you are ready to go!
Place the first component: the 10K resistor as shown. Resistors are non-directional, so you can put them in 'either' way and they'll work fine. When you put the legs through the PCB, bend them out so when the PCB is flipped it wont fall out.
Flip the PCB over.
Solder the legs. Hold the tip of iron against the wire leg and the metal ring at the same time, after 2 counts, poke the solder in till it creates a nice pool. Then remove the solder, wait a half count, then remove the iron. Do this for both legs.
Use the diagonal cutters to clip the legs off just above the solder joint.
Next up are the 2 47 ohm resistors. Place them as shown. Bend the legs out, flip the PCB, solder the 4 joints and clip them.
Next are the 5 1.5K resistors. Place them as shown, then solder them in and clip the leads off.
Next are the zener diodes. Diodes are directional so make sure to put them in as shown. There's a white stripe on the PCB drawing that matches the black stipe on the glass diode.

The next parts are the USB connector (big silver part), the 12.00MHz ceramic oscillator (the three pin part) and the ceramic capacitor (the small yellow part).

Both the capacitor and oscillator are nondirectional so they can go in either way. The USB connector can only go in one way, and snaps into place.

When you solder in the parts, make sure that you put plenty of solder on the two prongs that hold the USB connector in. These are mechanical connections: the solder actually acts as a 'glue' here, keeping the part fixed in place!

Next are the headers and the microcontroller socket. The 6-pin header has no direction so just put it in either way.

The 10-pin box header has a notch which should match the notch in the PCB graphic. (here it's closest to the microcontroller socket).

The right angle header JP3 should go in as shown, with the two prongs sticking out over the PCB.

The microcontroller socket also has to go so that the notch in the end matches the drawing. Here it's on the right. If you mess it up it's not the end of the world, just remember to put the microcontroller in the right way!

When you solder it in, it might be tough to keep the parts in place. you can try 'tacking' the parts in place by holding it in with a finger and soldering one or two corners as shown.

Then go back and solder each and every connection

The two LEDs are next. They should stand-off a bit from the PCB so make a marking about 1/2" (1cm) from where the colored plastic ends.

Place the LEDs as shown, the red one near the 10-pin header and the green one near the USB plug.

LEDs are directional and if you put them in backwards they won't light up. To figure out which way is right, look on the PCB, at the image of the LED. One side of the image is slightly flattened. That indicates the negative side. The LEDs have one lead that is shorter than the other. The short lead is also negative.

In this image, the negative side for the green LED is on the left. The negative side for the red LED is towards the top.

Instead of making the LEDs sit flat against the PCB, bend the leads at the 1/2" mark you made so they stick out. Solder them in place.

Soldering's done. Next up, insert the microcontroller. You can do this by gently bending the legs in using your fingertips or the tabletop.

Make sure it's inserted as shown, and press it in so it's seated well into the socket.

Make 6-pin cable

There are two standards for AVR programming, 6-pin and the 10-pin headers. Therefore, it's important that an AVR programmer have both types of cables. The 10-pin cables are easy to come by, but the 6-pin ones must be custom made. However, making a cable is super easy, just follow these steps!

If you're using the adaptor for a spokepov or don't need the 6pin cable, you can just skip this part.

It's hard to find 6-conductor ribbon cable so you may end up with 10-conductor wire. (The kit ships with 6-conductor) If so, just use your diagonal cutters (or a knife) to cut a notch so that the red stipe is on the 6-conductor side.
Tear the cable, it should come apart cleanly.
You are now ready to assemble the cable.
It's important that the key (the bump in the connector) and the red stripe line up. Match the image on the left, just poke the conductor in with a mm or two past the edge.
Get it started by just squeezing it with your fingers to make sure the wires are aligned properly. You wont be able to finish the cable this way so don't try!

Do not use needlenose pliers to try to press the pieces together. You have to have very flat pressure from both sides.

For example, use the flat side of a tool to press against a table top.

Or better yet, a vice! Slowly squeeze the two sides together until they lock.
Do the other end, keeping track of the key and red line.
Yay! You've got two cables!


Finally it's time to put the programmer in the case for use.

Take the PCB, two case halves and the cables you've made.

Plug in the two cables as shown, the red stripes on top and so that the cables don't bend over the plug (the case won't fit).

Put the PCB into the bottom case half.

The 6-pin cable may have strain reliefs that can clip on. You don't really need them but if you do want strain relief, put it on the one that goes to the target: the cable won't fit in the case if the strain-relief bit is on.

Line up the LEDs and snap the top on. You're done!

Next up, read the usage manual.

Can't get it working? Don't worry, help is available in the forums!

This guide was first published on Jun 10, 2013. It was last updated on Jun 10, 2013.

This page (Solder (v1.0)) was last updated on Apr 02, 2013.

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