Start by peeling the backing paper off both sides of all the laser-cut parts. It’s easiest to start at a corner, catching the edge of the paper with a fingernail. |
All told, there should be 13 laser-cut parts (15 for HELLA UNTZtrument). Most are clear except for the one black grid piece.
HELLA UNTZtrument has 2 more standoffs and 4 more screws for the wider case. |
We’ll start with the base piece…it’s one of the large squares, the one without the waffle grid. This piece has the Arduino footprint scored on one face. This helps identify the top surface. |
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Turn the base over and install three screws in the Arduino footprint area. This piece needs to be turned back over for additional work. You can either put a little masking tape over the head of each screw to hold them in place…or, if you’re dextrous, grip the three screws from the other side as you turn it over. |
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Set the base piece down so the screws are now pointed up. Add a 1/8" nylon standoff over each screw. Install the Arduino board with the mounting holes over these three screws (there’s a fourth hole, but we’re not using it here). Add a nut to each screw. There will probably be some mechanical interference from nearby headers and parts…that’s okay, you just need to get the nuts started. Now turn the base over, remove the tape (if used) and gently tighten the three screws with a small screwdriver. |
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The standoffs are easier, we can do them one at a time. No need for tape. |
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Next we’ll install the vertical and horizontal braces. |
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The four side pieces are almost identical…except for one which has a notch for the Arduino’s USB port. Install this side first. Align the bottom tabs with the slots in the base and tilt it up into place. If the USB port is covered, you’ve got it backwards — turn it around and try again. Once the first side is in place, the alignment of the remaining three should be straightforward. |
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Now get the Trellis board ready. Remove the rubber buttons for the time being and turn the board face-down. Orientation is important. Once installed, the top edge of the Trellis will face be aligned with the Arduino’s USB port. Insert the power and signal wires from the Trellis to the headers on the Arduino:
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Now the Trellis gets turned over, LED side up, and is lowered into place in the case. You’ll see the horizontal and vertical braces have notches into which the board neatly fits. The wires will fight you at this stage, either pushing back against the trellis or springing out of the Arduino sockets. This part goes a little easier if you bend a couple zig-zag kinks in the wires, keeping them all within that quadrant of the case. Be patient and put each wire back in place if they pop out. If your wires are connected to a different location on the Trellis, that’s okay…the braces have notches to allow wires to run from quadrant to quadrant. |
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Once the Trellis is in place, you’ll probably need to hold it down as the wires press against it. This is normal. While still holding this down, install the rubber button elastomers over the Trellis, aligning the “nubs” with the corresponding holes in the board. You’ll need to scoot these around a little until they all sit flush. |
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Install the clear top “waffle” piece. Since you’ll still be holding the Trellis down, start from one edge, aligning the notches with the tabs on the side pieces, and swing this down into place as you remove your other hand. When everything is aligned and sits flush, you can place the black surface piece over this. |
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Install four corner screws through both top waffles and into the standoffs. |
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Turn the whole thing over and peel-and-stick the four rubber feet near the corners. |
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Turn it back over and you’re ready to rock! Plug in a USB micro B cable and we’ll turn our attention back to the computer… |