All told, there should be 13 laser-cut parts (15 for HELLA UNTZtrument). Most are clear except for the one black grid piece.
Your kit should also include the following hardware:
- Eleven (11) nylon screws
- Three (3) nylon nuts
- Three (3) 1/8" board spacers
- Four (4) 1" threaded standoffs
- One set of 4 peel-and-stick rubber feet
HELLA UNTZtrument has 2 more standoffs and 4 more screws for the wider case.
If any parts are missing or damaged, contact [email protected] to arrange for a replacement.
This piece has the Arduino footprint scored on one face. This helps identify the top surface.
This piece needs to be turned back over for additional work. You can either put a little masking tape over the head of each screw to hold them in place…or, if you’re dextrous, grip the three screws from the other side as you turn it over.
Add a 1/8" nylon standoff over each screw.
Install the Arduino board with the mounting holes over these three screws (there’s a fourth hole, but we’re not using it here).
Add a nut to each screw. There will probably be some mechanical interference from nearby headers and parts…that’s okay, you just need to get the nuts started.
Now turn the base over, remove the tape (if used) and gently tighten the three screws with a small screwdriver.
The standoffs are easier, we can do them one at a time. No need for tape.
Insert a screw into one of the four corner holes. Come up from the underside, as you did with the Arduino. Catch the screw in the threads of the standoff and turn it into place. Finger pressure is usually sufficient, or you can gently use a screwdriver.
Repeat until all four standoffs are installed (six for HELLA UNTZtrument). You should then be able to set the base down with the Arduino and standoffs all on the top side.
Next we’ll install the vertical and horizontal braces.
The vertical braces (which run parallel to the Arduino’s longer axis) all look similar, but notice the “nubs” on the bottom are different: one, two, one. These fit into corresponding slots on the base. (On the HELLA UNTZtrument, there are five vertical braces — again, they’re keyed to only fit specific positions).
The horizontal braces now slot into notches on the verticals. Each of these is a different shape. The thinnest one is designed to clear the Arduino’s power jack. The slightly thicker (but still pretty thin) brace goes down the middle, while the full-thickness one is at the bottom.
Once the first side is in place, the alignment of the remaining three should be straightforward.
Orientation is important. Once installed, the top edge of the Trellis will face be aligned with the Arduino’s USB port.
Insert the power and signal wires from the Trellis to the headers on the Arduino:
- 5V from Trellis to 5V on Arduino
- GND from Trellis to any GND on Arduino
- SCL from Trellis to SCL on Arduino (this pin is nearest the mounting hole with no screw through it)
- SDA from Trellis to SDA on Arduino (this is the second pin, next to SCL)
The wires will fight you at this stage, either pushing back against the trellis or springing out of the Arduino sockets. This part goes a little easier if you bend a couple zig-zag kinks in the wires, keeping them all within that quadrant of the case. Be patient and put each wire back in place if they pop out.
If your wires are connected to a different location on the Trellis, that’s okay…the braces have notches to allow wires to run from quadrant to quadrant.
While still holding this down, install the rubber button elastomers over the Trellis, aligning the “nubs” with the corresponding holes in the board. You’ll need to scoot these around a little until they all sit flush.
When everything is aligned and sits flush, you can place the black surface piece over this.