This kit is for learning how to solder and maybe even a little of how remote controls are designed. The kit version also has 2 AA batteries and 4 high power output IR LEDs to allow for much longer distances than the keychain product, more than 150 ft! It's also easier to hack and adapt for other projects. However, the kit has fewer codes (so there may find a TV once in a while that doesn't respond), is larger and heavier and requires you to put it together.
We suggest you get one of each!
The latest revision of the kit (v1.2) has 230 of the most common codes for TV's! Wecouldn't include every code, but field testing has shown that nearly every TV we encountered would turn off, even the most recent LCD and Plasma flat screen TVs!
Note that this kit will not work with LED signs, computer monitors (that are not also televisions) and display signs that don't have a remote-control port.
IF you have v1.1 or v1.0 kit (older) it is designed for "North American/Asia" only. A large number of newer European TVs will work with TV-B-Gone kit, but its not as likely. For example, instead of 90% success, its more like 50%
The v1.2 kit can be configured for either N.A. and EU zone which avoids this problem!
Second, make sure you have fresh Alkaline batteries installed
Third, try to aim as best as you can at the IR receiver, usually a small dark plastic plate on the front of the TV
Finally, try many different TVs. Some TVs simply do not respond as well from far away as others.
Make sure you have fresh Alkaline batteries. They work better than rechargables
You can swap out the 2 AA battery holder for a 3 AA battery holder. This will give even better performance! Using C or D cell batteries will give longer run time but won't increase the power.
Do not use 9V batteries or more than 3 1.5V alkaline batteries, you can permanently damage the kit!
Coin cells do not work at all, don't bother using them.
Because of the limited number of pins and other elements of the kit, programming the kit requires a little modification. For the latest version, removing R1 1.0k resistor (or cutting one side) will allow it to be programmed.
For earlier kits, unfortunately, all four 47 ohm resistors must be removed (or one side cut).