TV-B-Gone Kit

by lady ada

published April 21, 2013, last updated May 07, 2024

posted in Projects

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Project guide

F.A.Q.

What is a TV-B-Gone Kit?

TV-B-Gone is a 'universal' remote control device, it is basically like a remote control but with only the "Power" button. This is a kit version of that product.

How are the kit and original TV-B-Gone product related?

Mitch Altman (inventor of the TV-B-Gone) and his company Cornfield Electronics worked together with me (Adafruit Industries) to develop a kit version of the TV-B-Gone. Mitch thinks open source kits are awesome!

Why should I get a kit if I can just buy a TV-B-Gone ready made?

This kit is for learning how to solder and maybe even a little of how remote controls are designed. The kit version also has 2 AA batteries and 4 high power output IR LEDs to allow for much longer distances than the keychain product, more than 150 ft! It's also easier to hack and adapt for other projects. However, the kit has fewer codes (so there may find a TV once in a while that doesn't respond), is larger and heavier and requires you to put it together.

We suggest you get one of each!

Does this kit work on all TVs?

The latest revision of the kit (v1.2) has 230 of the most common codes for TV's! Wecouldn't include every code, but field testing has shown that nearly every TV we encountered would turn off, even the most recent LCD and Plasma flat screen TVs!

Note that this kit will not work with LED signs, computer monitors (that are not also televisions) and display signs that don't have a remote-control port.

Does this kit work with European TVs?

IF you have v1.1 or v1.0 kit (older) it is designed for "North American/Asia" only. A large number of newer European TVs will work with TV-B-Gone kit, but its not as likely. For example, instead of 90% success, its more like 50%

The v1.2 kit can be configured for either N.A. and EU zone which avoids this problem!

How close do I have to be for the TV-B-Gone kit to work?

The closer the better, but we've found that if you have pretty good aim, you can be 100' (30m) or farther.

I'm not able to turn off the TV from more than 30 feet away, what's wrong?

First, perform the test to make sure all 4 IR LEDs are firing.
Second, make sure you have fresh Alkaline batteries installed
Third, try to aim as best as you can at the IR receiver, usually a small dark plastic plate on the front of the TV
Finally, try many different TVs. Some TVs simply do not respond as well from far away as others.

The LEDs blink as soon as I put in batteries, is this normal?

Yes! The kit will turn on when you insert batteries or if you press the button.

When I press the button, the LEDs stop blinking, is this normal?

Yes, the button is used to reset the kit, so if its pressed, the kit is off. When you release it, it turns on and blasts the TV-b-gone codes!

How do I get the TV-B-Gone to turn off?

The TV-B-Gone turns itself off once it is done with all the codes. This takes about 2 minutes! If you press the button, it will just start over so don't do that if you want it to stop. There is no off switch button, just put the kit in your pocket and it will turn itself off when it is don.

The LEDs blink for 2 seconds or less, then turn off, whats wrong?

You need to replace your batteries. Get FRESH Alkaline batteries, don't use old batteries from the back of your desk!

I want more range! How can I make the kit more powerful?

Make sure you have fresh Alkaline batteries. They work better than rechargables

You can swap out the 2 AA battery holder for a 3 AA battery holder. This will give even better performance! Using C or D cell batteries will give longer run time but won't increase the power.

Do not use 9V batteries or more than 3 1.5V alkaline batteries, you can permanently damage the kit!

Coin cells do not work at all, don't bother using them.

How can I reprogram the TV-B-Gone kit?

Because of the limited number of pins and other elements of the kit, programming the kit requires a little modification. For the latest version, removing R1 1.0k resistor (or cutting one side) will allow it to be programmed.

For earlier kits, unfortunately, all four 47 ohm resistors must be removed (or one side cut).

What would be the function of R2?

R2 was a placeholder on the circuit board in case we needed 'help' with getting charge off of the transistor base. It's not needed, so ignore it.