Because it might be difficult to get the IR receiver and the photocell to lineup in the holes properly, you may want to print just the center section of the faceplate and test fit the assembled clockworks on that piece. Drill out the holes for the IR receiver and the photocell. Then lineup the clock works and see if you can get a clear view of the IR receiver photocell through the holes. If you need to adjust them, you may be able to edit the STL files using Blender 3D or some other STL file editor. Or you can go back to the original Fusion 360 model to modify it and export new STL files. See the section on "Modifying the Model" for details on how to do this. Even if you are printing the faceplate in one piece, it might be a good idea to print just the center section as a test to make sure the holes align properly.
The holes for the LEDs should already be spaced properly and will not need any modification. As mentioned previously, we left the holes partially filled in to facilitate printing but if you want to modify the model to have the holes print without drilling we will show you how in the section on "Modifying the Model ".
Assemble the five pieces of the faceplate by snapping them together on a flat surface and gluing them together with superglue or an adhesive of your choice. Drill out the 60 holes.
We recommend that you mount the speakers first using two screws and nuts for each speaker using the mounting tabs we have provided. You should temporarily disconnect the speaker wires from the Music Maker Wing while mounting the speakers. We recommend you mount them first before mounting the clockworks so you can have easier access to put in screws and nuts. If you don't have the proper size screws you could glue them in place. Orient them so that the speaker wires are coming out of the bottom of the clock. That is towards the end where the touch plate area will be.
Remove the Feather M0 and Music Maker Wing from the doubler board so that you can get access to the mounting holes. Align the board over the 4 standoffs in the center of the plate. The NeoPixel wires should extend towards the top of the clock and the four touch control wires should extend towards the bottom. We recommend using M3 plastic screws just to ensure that it doesn't accidentally shorten something out. If
Insert 4 metal screws into the touch control area of the plate. Strip the ends of the wires and either wrap them around the screws and solder them or solder them onto the tops of the screw heads. They must be metal for the capacitive touch feature to work.
Plug-in the Feather M0 and the Music Maker Wing into the doubler board. Mount the NeoPixel ring onto the plate. There is a sample sketch in the files you downloaded called "lamp_test". Plug a USB into the Feather M0 and upload that sketch. It will light all of the NeoPixels as white at a reasonable brightness. The topics of will be colored red. This will help you align the ring so that the pixels are visible through the holes in the plate.
If you don't get the "zero" pixel at the very top, don't worry there is an option in the software that allows you to specify which pixel is the top zero minute pixel. See "Advanced Configuration" for details.
We put a dab of hot glue at all four positioning tabs around the ring. We used hot glue rather than superglue in case we got the ring in the wrong position it would be easier to break it loose and reposition it.
As a final step, connect the speaker wires back onto the Music Maker Wing terminals with the red wires on the outside and the black wires towards the center. You may wish to shorten these wires as well as shortening the wires connecting to the NeoPixel ring.
Assemble the 4 pieces of the frame ring. We suggest superglue or other adhesive. You can slide the wall hanger into the notch at the top of the ring and optionally add the table stand into the notch at the bottom of the ring. Then insert the plate into the front of the frame and glue it in place. Your project is now complete. Upload the clock sketch and try out all the options.
Below is a photograph of our actual completed project. The faceplate could probably benefit from some filling, priming, sanding and painting. However from a distance under normal lighting conditions you don't see any of the artifacts that are apparent in this photo.