The 3D files for this project can be downloaded from Thingiverse:

There are just two parts to this model. They’re fairly small and will fit even on entry-level printers. No support is needed. For best results, print each half as a separate job…keeps the outside faces cleaner, no strings between halves.

After printing, you may need to do a lot of cleanup with files and sandpaper. Make sure each of the 20 faces can sit flat and doesn’t rock. There may also be “drool strings” on the insides that need to be scraped away.

Test-fit screws in the interior mounting holes. You may (or may not) find that they only go in a couple millimeters.

There is so much variation among printers, filaments and slicer settings, it’s not always possible to make a perfect mechanical fit for all situations.

If the holes are too shallow, use a drill or Dremel tool to extend them. Poke just through the surface to the infill…don’t drill the whole depth or you’ll punch out the other side.

Leave about 2mm of threads showing on each screw. Do not drive them any further! They come very close to the outer walls.

If the screws don’t have a good “bite” into the plastic, that’s okay…we can add a little glue later to help reinforce these.

If you like, wet-sand the outsides so it’s extra smooth and good-looking. Rinse it off and set aside for a day to dry completely.

One side has a pair of nubs, the other has matching sockets, so you can see how the two halves align. We’ll add some magnets to hold these two halves together, while still allowing easy internal access for charging or reprogramming.

This guide was first published on Aug 07, 2015. It was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

This page (3D Printing) was last updated on Jul 20, 2015.

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