# Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Overview https://youtu.be/OHqMBf6Bk7k ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/171/medium800thumb/3d_printing_guide-loop-2.jpg?1635961574) > _First Officer’s log. I am being held captive by the_ Kzinti, _an aggressive feline species with the worst fashion sense in the sector. They intercepted our shuttlecraft and seized highly sought-after cargo — Adabox #1242. What IS it with cats and boxes?_ ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/181/medium800/3d_printing_hero-cat-2.jpg?1635967190) It’s a simple matter of economics that retail mass-produced costumes and props will _always_ be the popular main characters. **3D printing and electronics** affords us the opportunity to faithfully cosplay the “deep cuts” — supporting or background characters with little screen time that never got a Funko POP! of their own. Everyone has an odd favorite…Willrow Hood from _The Empire Strikes Back_ is now a cosplay staple, eventually earning his own action figure. But most remain obscure. ## A Challenger Appears Episode 14 of **_Star Trek: The Animated Series_** was notable for its crossover with episode writer Larry Niven’s **_Known Space_** universe. The show’s depiction of his **_Kzinti _** species — bloodthirsty, warlike humanoid cats — was hard to take seriously with their pink space unitards. The entire _Animated Series_ was a bit peculiar that way, seldom seen for a while with a few curmudgeons even debating its canonicity, but has enjoyed a bit of a resurgence since. ![3d_printing_st-tas-capture.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/227/medium640/3d_printing_st-tas-capture.jpg?1636127110) The MacGuffin of this episode was a powerful alien weapon that could change function and shape. It seemed like a fun idea for a DIY project — **one design for electronics and code, two different props.**  The show’s weapon is seen transmogrifying among _nine_ shapes, but time and space are finite…we picked just a couple favorites that struck a nice balance: the “talking computer” and “total conversion beam.” If you’re handy with 3D modeling, you could try for some of the others. If you’re not looking for a _Star Trek_ prop, the circuit and code might be helpful as a starting point for your own ideas! ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/182/medium800/3d_printing_hero-cat-3.jpg?1635967207) > “Strange, how the past sometimes breaks through into the present” — Spock ## Parts Required Two **3D-printable models** are provided on a later page. If you’d simply like a passive prop without lights or sound, that might be all you need, perhaps adding a subset of components (unsoldered) to fill in some spaces. If you’d like to go all-out though… In addition to the electronic components listed below, the project requires a **soldering iron** and related paraphernalia, wire cutter/stripper, and some **heat-shrink tubing** for insulating some of the connections. There’s also some hardware and fasteners needed: **Hardware for Total Conversion Weapon** - 5x M3 x 10mm pan head screws **Hardware for Talking Computer** - 4x M3 x 4mm pan head screws - 2x M3 x 6mm pan head screws - 2x M3 hex nuts **Hardware for Both Props** - 2x M2 x 10mm pan head screws - 4x M2.5 x 8mm pan head screws - 2x M2.5 x 10mm pan head screws - 6x M2.5 hex nuts - 3x M3 x 12mm pan head screws Assembly and finishing also requires one or more **adhesives** — the exact choice(s) will depend what you have around and are comfortable working with, so be prepared to improvise. This might involve cyanoacrylate (e.g. “Krazy Glue”), 5-minute epoxy, craft glue (e.g. E-6000), and/or hot glue. You can touch up some of the details with craft paint if you like, but this isn’t required.  **Set realistic expectations for build time…you might need to set the project aside while glue dries or you need to go buy overlooked nuts or screws.** ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/180/medium800/3d_printing_hero-cat-1.jpg?1635967177) Parts below are needed for _each_ of the two props. If building just one or the other, a **single set** is sufficient. If building both, **double up**. The last few items are only needed for the talking computer prop; they can be omitted for the total conversion beam. ### Adafruit Feather M4 Express - Featuring ATSAMD51 [Adafruit Feather M4 Express - Featuring ATSAMD51](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3857) It's what you've been waiting for, the Feather M4 Express featuring ATSAMD51. This Feather is fast like a swift, smart like an owl, strong like a ox-bird (it's half ox, half bird, OK?) This feather is powered by our new favorite chip, the **ATSAMD51J19** -  with... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3857) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/3857/guides) ![Angled shot of a Adafruit Feather M4 Express. ](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/3857-10.jpg) ### Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D Audio Amplifier - PAM8302 [Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D Audio Amplifier - PAM8302](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2130) This super small mono amplifier is surprisingly powerful - able to deliver up to 2.5 Watts into 4-8 ohm impedance speakers. Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.0V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, its very efficient (over 90% efficient when driving an... Out of Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2130) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2130/guides) ![Angled shot of an Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D Audio Amplifier assembled to a speaker and white breadboard. ](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/2130-00.jpg) ### Mini Oval Speaker - 8 Ohm 1 Watt [Mini Oval Speaker - 8 Ohm 1 Watt](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3923) Hear the good news! This wee speaker is a great addition to any audio project where you need 8 ohm impedance and 1W or less of power. We particularly like this speaker as it is small and comes with nice skinny wires with a connector on the end. It has a handy... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3923) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/3923/guides) ![Small, black, oval speaker with Pico Blade connector.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/3923-06.jpg) ### Slide Potentiometer with Plastic Knob - 45mm Long [Slide Potentiometer with Plastic Knob - 45mm Long](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4272) _Slip slidin' away  Slip slidin' away  You know the nearer your resistance  The more you're slip slidin' away_ If you're tired of the regular-old-twisty potentiometers we carry, why not _slide_ over and try this slide pot?... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4272) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4272/guides) ![hand slowly sliding potentiometer back and forth - 45mm Long.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/product-videos/640x480/4272-00.jpg) ### 16mm Panel Mount Momentary Pushbutton - Green [16mm Panel Mount Momentary Pushbutton - Green](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1504) OK, this item is pretty simple - it's a panel mount pushbutton. It's not that exciting, no LEDs, no bells & whistles. But we really like it anyways – look at that lovely rounded shape, that elegant bevel. If you're going to go with a momentary pushbutton, let it be this... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1504) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1504/guides) ![Reverse shot of panel mount pushbutton showing two leads.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/1504-05.jpg) ### Lithium Ion Cylindrical Battery - 3.7v 2200mAh [Lithium Ion Cylindrical Battery - 3.7v 2200mAh](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1781) Need a big battery for your project? This lithium-ion battery contains a 2200mAh and a protection circuit that provides over-voltage, under-voltage, and over-current protection. Yet, it is slim and easy to fit into many project cases. This cell can provide 2 **C** of... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1781) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1781/guides) ![Lithium Ion Cylindrical Battery - 3.7v 2200mAh with JST PH connector](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/1781-04.jpg) ### Breadboard-friendly SPDT Slide Switch [Breadboard-friendly SPDT Slide Switch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/805) These nice switches are perfect for use with breadboard and perfboard projects. They have 0.1" spacing and snap in nicely into a solderless breadboard. They're easy to switch no matter what size fingers you have, but not so easy that they'll get flipped by accident. Work great as... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/805) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/805/guides) ![Small, black, SPDT slide switch.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/805-03.jpg) ### Part: Neodymium Magnets quantity: 8 D42 - 1/4in Diameter – 1/8in Thickness [Neodymium Magnets](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D42) ### Part: 2-pin JST Plug quantity: 2 Female Connector 100mm [2-pin JST Plug](https://www.adafruit.com/product/261) ### Part: 2-pin JST - Socket quantity: 2 Male Header 200mm [2-pin JST - Socket](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3814) ### Part: 2-pin Molex PicoBlade Pair quantity: 1 40cm long - Molex PicoBlade Compatible [2-pin Molex PicoBlade Pair ](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4720) ### Part: 3-pin Molex PicoBlade Pair quantity: 1 40cm long - Molex PicoBlade Compatible [3-pin Molex PicoBlade Pair](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4721) **Key switches are only needed for the “talking computer” prop. The “total conversion beam” does not require them:** ### Kailh Mechanical Key Switches - Clicky White - 10 pack [Kailh Mechanical Key Switches - Clicky White - 10 pack](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4955) For crafting your very own custom keyboard, these ** Kailh White Linear mechanical key switches**  are deeee-luxe! With smooth actuation and Cherry MX compatibility, they're lovely when you want a **clicky tactile** keystroke with a snappy feel and an... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4955) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4955/guides) ![Angled shot of ten white Kailh key switches.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/4955-00.jpg) The “talking computer” prop will require **_two_** sets of these key caps, since they’re sold in sets of 5. The “total conversion weapon” does not require them: ### Orange MA Keycaps for MX Compatible Switches - 5 pack [Orange MA Keycaps for MX Compatible Switches - 5 pack](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5175) Dress up your mechanical keys in your favorite colors with a wide selection of gumdrop-like, retro, curvy, and stylish MA profile keycaps. Here is a 5 pack of **Orange MA Keycaps** for your next mechanical keyboard or  In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5175) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/5175/guides) ![Angled shot of five orange MA keycaps.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/5175-00.jpg) If you already have a healthy assortment of wire, this silicone ribbon cable isn’t required. We like it because you can peel away one or groups of wires as needed. It’s handy for the keypad part of the prop! ### Part: 10-wire Silicone Cover Ribbon Cable quantity: 1 10 Wire 1 Meter Long - 28AWG Black [10-wire Silicone Cover Ribbon Cable](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3890) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/184/medium800/3d_printing_hero-cat-4.jpg?1635967497) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Circuit Diagram The _same_ circuit is used for _both_ the talking computer and total conversion beam props. **The nine buttons on the right are only needed for the talking computer.** If building the total conversion beam, those (and the associated wires) can be omitted. The circuit requires **5 or 6** ground connections (depending on prop), but the Feather M4 board only has **4** ground points (3 in the small power rails at the end opposite the USB port, 1 near the reset button). Therefore, you’ll need to feed **_two_ wires** through a couple of the ground points to make everything fit. You can see this in a couple spots in the diagram below. To make this easier to assemble into the prop, several of these parts will have connectors installed, not shown here. We’ll detail those (and correct wire lengths) on the following pages. Consider this just a schematic. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/926/medium800/3d_printing_circuit-diagram-v3.jpg?1635250428) That’s a bit of a visual tangle, so here’s a summary of the individual connections: **PAM8302 Amplifier to Feather M4** - GND to GND - VIN to 3V - A+ to A0 - A– to GND (use GND on amplifier) **Speaker to Amplifier** The mini oval speaker is connected to the audio out pins of the PAM8302 amplifier. - Positive (red wire) to ⊕ - Negative (black wire) to ⊖ **Slide Switch** - Center pin to GND - _Either one_ of the two outer pins to En (enable) - The _other_ outer pin is _not connected_ **Push Button (trigger)** The button has _no specific polarity._ One pin goes to Feather GND, the other to Feather pin A1. **10mm LED** - Anode (longer leg) to A2 - Cathode (shorter leg) to GND **Slide Potentiometer** - Pin 1 to GND - Pin 2 to A3 - Pin 3 to 3V **Mechanical Key Switches (“Talking Computer” only)** Each switch has two pins and no specific polarity. One pin of every switch goes to Feather GND (these can be chained switch-to-switch, as we’ll show on a later page). The other pin of each switch is connected to a different point on the Feather M4: - D4 - D12 - D11 - D10 - D9 - D6 - D5 - SCL - SDA Since this prop is just a noise-maker and not an actual keyboard where we need to type real things, any switch can go to any of the above pins, whatever you find easiest when soldering. If you want to tie a specific sound to a specific key, that can be easily changed in the code. The diagram below provides a visual reference for wiring of the components. This diagram was created using the software package [Fritzing](http://fritzing.org/download/). ## Adafruit Library for Fritzing Use Adafruit's Fritzing parts library to create circuit diagrams for your projects. Download the library or just grab individual parts. Get the library and parts from [GitHub - Adafruit Fritzing Parts](https://github.com/adafruit/Fritzing-Library/tree/master/parts). # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## 3D Printing We used “silk” PLA filament which gives this prop a distinctive shimmer, resembling the cartoon item. Photos here show light green, but a darker jade green also looks good. ## 3D Parts for Total Conversion Weapon 3MF files for 3D printing will need to be oriented in your slicing software for FDM style machines. Parts are designed to 3D print without any support material. - ray-handle-left-hand - ray-handle-right-hand - ray-led-holder - ray-middle - ray-nose - ray-tip - ray-top ![3d_printing_3d-parts-raygun.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/454/medium640/3d_printing_3d-parts-raygun.jpg?1634151607) [Download 3MF.zip](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/149/original/3MF.zip?1635954039) [Download CAD source](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/969/original/cad.zip?1635451349) ## 3D Parts for Talking Computer Parts below are designed for the talking computer verison. - melon-bottom - melon-handle-left-hand - melon-handle-right-hand - melon-keyplate - melon-switch-holder - melon-top ![3d_printing_3d-parts-melon.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/455/medium640/3d_printing_3d-parts-melon.jpg?1634152173) Each set includes both a right-handed and a left-handed grip — you only need to print one or the other. These place the slider potentiometer in a different position for better comfort. ## Parts for Both Props Parts list below are required parts that can be used in both versions of the prop.  - feather-pcb-mount - pommel-handle ## Slicing Parts No supports are required. Slice with setting for PLA material.  The parts were sliced using CURA using the slice settings below. The handle for the Total Conversion Weapon will need to be rotated 15 degrees (Y-Axis) in order to sit flat on the bed. - PLA filament 220c extruder - 0.2 layer height - 10% gyroid infill - 60mm/s print speed - 60c heated bed ![3d_printing_slice-handle.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/970/medium640/3d_printing_slice-handle.jpg?1635451910) ## Design Source Files The project assembly was designed in Fusion 360. This can be downloaded in different formats like STEP, STL and more. Electronic components like Adafruit's board, displays, connectors and more can be downloaded from the [Adafruit CAD parts GitHub Repo](https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CAD_Parts). ![3d_printing_3857-Adafruit-Feather-M4-Express.gif](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/971/medium640thumb/3d_printing_3857-Adafruit-Feather-M4-Express.jpg?1635452125) If building both props, it might be best to do them **one at a time**. While it would seem to make more sense to assembly-line the work for both, some of the parts (both electronic and 3D-printed) are very similar…if mixed up, you may find yourself having to dismantle and repeat several steps over. # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Keypad Assembly These steps are only required for the “talking computer” prop; skip ahead if building the “total conversion beam.” ## Install Key Caps Fit the 9 key caps onto the mechanical key switches by press fitting them over the stems. Get the key plate ready to install the key switches. There are 9 corresponding square holes, one per switch, with the center one at an angle. ![3d_printing_melon-keys-plate.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/466/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-plate.jpg?1634233319) ## Install Switches to Key Plate The key plate is symmetrical and doesn't matter which side the  switches are installed. If one face looks nicer than the other, make that the top. Press fit the switches into the square holes to install them into the key plate. ![3d_printing_melon-keys-plate-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/467/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-plate-install.jpg?1634233384) ## Installed Switches Double check all of the switches are fully seated into the key plate. Orientation of the pins doesn't really matter but feel free to orient them similarly.  ![3d_printing_melon-keys-plate-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/468/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-plate-installed.jpg?1634233422) ![3d_printing_melon-keys-plate-pins.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/469/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-plate-pins.jpg?1634233471) ## Ground Wires All 9 switches will share a common ground connection. 8 short wires were measured, tips stripped and tinned (apply a thin layer of molten solder). Ground Wire Lengths: 1.25 in If using silicone ribbon cable, you can cut off a single chunk, then peel it apart into 10 pieces. Only 8 are needed here, but save one of the spares, you can use it for the amplifier board later. ![3d_printing_melon-keys-gnd-wires.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/470/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-gnd-wires.jpg?1634233800) ## Cable for Key Switches A longer ribbon cable is used to connect the opposite pins of each key switch. The ribbon cable features 10 wires, 9 for the signals and 1 for the common ground connection. Splay the wires at each end about 1/2", strip just a small amount and tin the ends. 10-wire ribbon cable length: 8 inches ![3d_printing_melon-keys-cable.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/471/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-cable.jpg?1634233540) If you already have a healthy assortment of wire and didn’t get the ribbon cable, that’s fine, you can do this with individual 8-inch wires. Bundle them up with some tape, a zip-tie or heat-shrink tube to reduce chaos. ## Shared Common Ground One short wire and one wire from the longer ribbon cable is soldered to a pin on one of the key switches.  The pins on the switches have no specific polarity; it doesn't matter which pin these ground wires go to, as long as they reach. ![3d_printing_melon-keys-gnd-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/473/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-gnd-wiring.jpg?1634233555) ## Solder Grounds Proceed to solder all of the short wires to the ground pins on each of the 9 key switches. ![3d_printing_melon-keys-gnd-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/474/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-gnd-wired.jpg?1634233592) ## Solder Signal Wires Proceed to solder all of the signal wires to the opposite (non-ground) pin on each of the 9 key switches, peeling apart a little more of the ribbon cable to make each wire reach. ![3d_printing_melon-keys-pins-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/475/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-pins-wired.jpg?1634233605) ![3d_printing_melon-keys-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/476/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keys-wired.jpg?1634233634) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring Slider Potentiometer This will go inside the handle later. In the cartoon, the slider selects among the different modes/shapes and is called the _widdershins._ In our prop, it just makes nice clicky noises. ## Cable for Slider Potentiometer A matching pair of 3-pin Molex PicoBlade-compatible cables is used to connect the slider potentiometer. Using a pair of these cables will make the assembly much easier. 3-pin Molex Cable Length: 6 inches for ground and center tap (black and yellow wires), 4 inches for +V (red wire). ![3d_printing_slidepot-cable.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/490/medium640/3d_printing_slidepot-cable.jpg?1634301196) ## Solder Slider Potentiometer Make the following connections to the 3 pins on the slide potentiometer: - Pin 1 – Black Wire - Pin 2 – Yellow Wire - Pin 3 – Red Wire ![3d_printing_slidepot-wiring-v2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/935/medium640/3d_printing_slidepot-wiring-v2.jpg?1635267352) ## Wired Slide Potentiometer Double check the wires are properly soldered to the pins on the slide potentiometer. A little heat-shrink tubing keeps things tidy, totally optional. ![3d_printing_slidepot-wired-v2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/936/medium640/3d_printing_slidepot-wired-v2.jpg?1635267418) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring Push Button ## Wires for Push Button The push button is wired to a 2-pin JST cable to make the assembly much easier. Wire Lengths: 6 inches. ![3d_printing_pushbutton-wires-v2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/937/medium640/3d_printing_pushbutton-wires-v2.jpg?1635267452) ## Solder Cable to Push Button Attach the two wires from the cable to the pins on the push button. Polarity does not matter. The wires are soldered to the pins at a right angle to make assembly easier. ![3d_printing_pushbutton-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/938/medium640/3d_printing_pushbutton-wiring.jpg?1635267496) ## Wired Push Button Double check the wires are properly soldered to the two pins on the push button. ![3d_printing_pushbutton-wired-v2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/939/medium640/3d_printing_pushbutton-wired-v2.jpg?1635267573) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring Slide Switch ## Wire for Slide Switch The slide switch uses a 2-wire ribbon cable (or 2 separate wires) that will be soldered directly to the pins on the Adafruit Feather M4. Wire length: 4 inches. ![3d_printing_slideswitch-wire.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/495/medium640/3d_printing_slideswitch-wire.jpg?1634302127) One wire goes to the center pin on the switch, the other goes to _either one_ of the outer two pins. The opposite outer pin is not used and can be trimmed shorter if you like. ## Wired Slide Switch Double check the 2-wire ribbon cable is properly soldered to the pins on the slide switch. ![3d_printing_slideswitch-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/496/medium640/3d_printing_slideswitch-wired.jpg?1634302175) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring Amplifier ## Wires for Amplifier The PAM8302 is wired directly to the pins on the Adafruit Feather M4. 3-wire ribbon cable (or 3 separate wires) length: 3 inches Single ground wire: 1.25 inches. If you built the keypad earlier using a chunk of ribbon cable, one of the spare bits of wire from that is perfect here. ![3d_printing_feather-amp-wires.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/497/medium640/3d_printing_feather-amp-wires.jpg?1634302249) ## Solder Wires to Amplifier Make the following wired connections. Use the short single wire to connect Pin **A–** to the **GND** pin. The 3-wire ribbon cable connects to pins **A+** , **VIN** and **GND**. SD (shutdown) is left unconnected. Notice **two wires** share the amplifier’s single GND connection: one to A–, one to the Feather cable. ![3d_printing_amp-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/498/medium640/3d_printing_amp-wiring.jpg?1634302285) ## Soldered Amp Wires Double check the wires are properly soldered to the PAM8302. Especially that two-wired ground connection. A cold solder joint there will cause unexpected noises. ![3d_printing_amp-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/499/medium640/3d_printing_amp-wired.jpg?1634304246) ## 2-pin JST Cable for Amp A 2-pin JST cable is used to connect the speaker to the audio output. Red wire connects to positive pin ⊕ and black wire connects to negative pin ⊖. 2-pin JST socket cable: 2 inches. ![3d_printing_amp-2pin-jst.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/506/medium640/3d_printing_amp-2pin-jst.jpg?1634324224) ## Wired Amplifier Double check the wires and cable are properly soldered to the PAM8302. ![3d_printing_amp-2pin-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/507/medium640/3d_printing_amp-2pin-wired.jpg?1634324239) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring Speaker ## Solder Cable to Speaker A 2-pin JST cable is used to extend the cable from the mini oval speaker. Clip the original mini connector off the end of the speaker wires and aim for the following wire lengths: 2-pin JST plug cable length: 2 inches Speaker cable length: 3 inches If your speaker cable was clipped shorter than this, you can compensate on the JST cable side, for a total of 5 inches. ![3d_printing_speaker-2pin-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/508/medium640/3d_printing_speaker-2pin-wiring.jpg?1634324261) Put some heat-shrink tubing over the JST wires _before_ soldering to the speaker wires. Once the connections are soldered, slide the heat-shrink over the exposed part of the wires and apply heat. ## Wired Speaker Double check the cable from the speaker has been properly soldered and the connections are not exposed. ![3d_printing_speaker-2pin-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/509/medium640/3d_printing_speaker-2pin-wired.jpg?1634324294) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring LED ## Cable for LED A 2-pin Molex PicoBlade-compatible cable is used to connect the LED to the Feather M4. Make the following cable for connecting the LED. 2-pin Molex cable length: 4 inches. ![3d_printing_led-2-pin-cable.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/510/medium640/3d_printing_led-2-pin-cable.jpg?1634324319) LEDs have a specific polarity. The longer leg is the _anode_ or + connection. Next step involves trimming both legs, so it may be helpful to make a small dot with a permanent marker or paint, so you can keep track of which leg is which. ## Right-Angled Pins on LED Cut to trim the two leads from the LEDs shorter. Using a pair of flat pliers, carefully bend the pins so they're right-angled.  ![3d_printing_led-pins.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/511/medium640/3d_printing_led-pins.jpg?1634324333) ## Solder Cable to LED Solder the **red wire** to the **anode/+** pin (the longer leg before trimming) and the **black wire** to the **cathode/–** pin (shorter before trimming). If you get this backwards, it’s not a disaster, the LED just won’t light. You’ll have an opportunity to test it before everything’s sealed inside the prop, and can make changes if necessary. ![3d_printing_led-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/512/medium640/3d_printing_led-wiring.jpg?1634324359) ## Wired LED Double check the cable has been properly soldered to the pins of the LED. ![3d_printing_led-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/513/medium640/3d_printing_led-wired.jpg?1634324370) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## CircuitPython Code Intermission! It’s a good idea to **install the software _before_ assembling electronics** inside the prop. Later we’ll do a test run, and any trouble spots can be repaired without dismantling everything. If you’ve done CircuitPython projects on the Feather M4 before, you know what to do: [make sure CircuitPython is up to date with the latest release](https://circuitpython.org/board/feather_m4_express/), and use the “Download Project Bundle” button below to get all the code and sounds. No extra libraries are required for this project. If this is your first time using either CircuitPython or the Feather M4 board, we’ll direct you to a separate guide focused on setting that up (opens in new window): ## [**Adafruit Feather M4 Express**](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m4-express-atsamd51/overview) At the very least, follow the steps on the “Update the UF2 Bootloader” and “CircuitPython on Feather M4 Express” pages to get the board prepared for this project’s software. Then click the “Download Project Bundle” button below to get all the code and sounds. You’ll get a ZIP file which, after uncompressing, contains and **code.py** file and a folder called **sounds**. With the Feather M4 plugged into a USB port, drag both of these to the **CIRCUITPY** drive. Once it finishes, that should be all you need! You can also read through the source code below if you’d like to learn more about how it works. If building the Talking Computer: normally the keys play sound immediately when pressed. If you’d prefer the keys select sounds and the trigger plays the current selection, change `buttons_play = True` to `False` around line 38. https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_Learning_System_Guides/blob/main/Trek_Kzinti_Prop/code.py Your Feather M4 Express **CIRCUITPY** drive should look like this after copying the  **sounds** folder and **code.py**  file. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/185/medium800/3d_printing_circuitpy-drive.jpg?1635967973) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Wiring Feather Before proceeding with the last of the wiring, **CircuitPython and the project’s code and data should already be installed on the Feather board** , so we can give everything a dry run before sealing it inside the prop. If you haven’t installed that yet, back up to the “CircuitPython Code” page and load things up. Keep in mind that two or three ground wires will need to _share_ connections on the Feather board. We’ll let you decide which ones. It’s usually easiest when the narrowest-gauge wires are the ones sharing holes. ## Wiring Amp and Switch to Feather Wires from the slide switch and PAM8302 amplifier are soldered directly to the pins on the Feather M4. ![3d_printing_feather-switch-amp.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/514/medium640/3d_printing_feather-switch-amp.jpg?1634324425) ## Solder Slide Switch to Feather The 2-wire cable from the slide switch is soldered to the following pins on the Feather. - Center pin on switch to En (enable) pin on Feather - Outer pin (with wire, not the unconnected one) to GND (ground) pin on Feather ![3d_printing_feather-switch-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/515/medium640/3d_printing_feather-switch-wired.jpg?1634324470) ## Solder Amp to Feather The 3-wire ribbon cable from the PAM8302 amp if soldered to the following pins on the Feather: - A+ pin to A0 pin - VIN pin to 3V pin - GND pin to GND pin ![3d_printing_feather-amp-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/516/medium640/3d_printing_feather-amp-wired.jpg?1634324486) ## Wired Slide Switch and Amplifier Double check the wires from the slide switch and amplifier are properly soldered to the pins on the Feather M4. ![3d_printing_feather-switch-amp-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/517/medium640/3d_printing_feather-switch-amp-wired.jpg?1634324505) ## 3-pin cable for Feather The accompanying 3-pin Molex PicoBlade cable for the slider potentiometer will be soldered the pins on the Feather M4. 3-pin Molex cable length: 2 inches. ![3d_printing_feather-slider-wire.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/518/medium640/3d_printing_feather-slider-wire.jpg?1634324539) ## Solder 3-pin cable Make the following connects on the Feather M4. - Red Wire to 3V pin - Black Wire to GND pin - Yellow Wire to A2 pin ![3d_printing_feather-slider-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/519/medium640/3d_printing_feather-slider-wiring.jpg?1634324832) ## Soldered 3-pin cable Double check the 3-pin cable has been properly soldered to the pins on the Feather. ![3d_printing_feather-slider-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/520/medium640/3d_printing_feather-slider-wired.jpg?1634324596) ## Cables for LED and Push Button Use the following cables to connect the LED and push button to the Feather. - 2-pin JST plug cable length: 1.5in - 2-pin Molex PicoBlade cable length: 2.5in ![3d_printing_feather-2pin-cables.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/522/medium640/3d_printing_feather-2pin-cables.jpg?1634324707) ## Solder Push Button Cable Make the following connections to the pins on the Feather M4. - 2-pin JST cable: A1 pin and GND (ground) pin Since there’s no polarity to the button, it doesn’t matter which wire goes where, but the convention is to run the black wire to ground. ![3d_printing_feather-button-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/523/medium640/3d_printing_feather-button-wiring.jpg?1634324739) ## Solder LED Cable Make the following connections from the 2-pin Molex cable to the pins on the Feather M4: - Red wire: A3 pin - Black wire: GND (ground) Unlike the button above, the LED definitely cares about polarity! ![3d_printing_feather-led-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/524/medium640/3d_printing_feather-led-wiring.jpg?1634324754) ## Soldered Cables Double check the cables have been properly soldered to the pins on the Feather M4. ![3d_printing_feather-2pin-cables-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/525/medium640/3d_printing_feather-2pin-cables-wired.jpg?1634324788) ## Connect Components Grab and connect the components to the various connectors. Connect the 2200mAh battery to the Feather M4. Use the slide switch to power the Feather on. Use the push button to test the circuit. The speaker should play audio and the LED should light up. Try the slider potentiometer, see if it makes clicky sounds. Are your solder connections secure, nothing cracking off? Good. ![3d_printing_feather-comps-test.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/527/medium640/3d_printing_feather-comps-test.jpg?1634324836) ## If you're building the “total conversion beam,” skip the steps below and proceed to the next page. ## If you're building the Talking Computer, proceed here: ## Wire Keys to Feather Get the keypad assembly ready to solder to the Feather M4. ![3d_printing_feather-keys.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/528/medium640/3d_printing_feather-keys.jpg?1634325562) ## Solder Keys to Feather Make the following connections to the Feather. - Ground Wire to any GND pin - Buttons 1 through 9: D4, D12, D11, D10, D9, D6, D5, SDA, SCL You really **do not** need to connect wires to pins in the specific order above, but _do_ use these pins. You can follow whatever order is easier to solder, then make adjustments in the code later if you require a specific sequence to the keys. ![3d_printing_feather-keys-wiring.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/529/medium640/3d_printing_feather-keys-wiring.jpg?1634324992) ## Soldered Keys Double check all of the wires from the key switches are properly soldered to the Feather M4. ![3d_printing_feather-keys-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/530/medium640/3d_printing_feather-keys-wired.jpg?1634325002) ## Connect Components Proceed to connect the various components to the Feather. Connect the 2200mAh battery to the Feather M4. Use the slide switch to power the Feather on. Use the push button and keys to test the circuit. The speaker should play audio and the LED should light up. Try the slider potentiometer, see if it makes clicky sounds. Are your solder connections secure, nothing cracking off? Good. ![3d_printing_feather-keys-comps-connected.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/531/medium640/3d_printing_feather-keys-comps-connected.jpg?1634325615) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## PCB Mount Assembly ## Hardware for Feather Use the following screws to secure the Feather to the PCB mount. - 12x M2.5 hex nuts - 6x M2.5 x 10mm ![3d_printing_feather-mount-screws.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/554/medium640/3d_printing_feather-mount-screws.jpg?1634415662) ## Install Amplifier Screws Insert 2x M2.5 x 10mm long screws through the two holes in the PCB mount. Reference the photo for correct orientation. Fasten 2x M2.5 hex nuts onto the threads of the screws to secure them to the PCB mount. ![3d_printing_feather-mount-amp-screw.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/555/medium640/3d_printing_feather-mount-amp-screw.jpg?1634415729) ## Install Feather Screws Install 4x M2.5 x 10mm screws through the mounting holes on the Feather PCB. Fasten 4x M2.5 hex nuts onto the threads of the screws to secure them to the Feather. ![3d_printing_feather-nuts-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/556/medium640/3d_printing_feather-nuts-install.jpg?1634417799) ## Secure Feather Place the Feather on to the PCB mount with the screw threads fitting through the mounting holes. Fasten 4x M2.5 hex nuts onto the threads of the screws to secure the Feather to the PCB mount. ![3d_printing_feather-mount-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/557/medium640/3d_printing_feather-mount-install.jpg?1634417831) ![3d_printing_feather-mount-secured.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/558/medium640/3d_printing_feather-mount-secured.jpg?1634416019) ## Secure Amplifier Place the PAM8302 amplifier over the two remaining screw threads. Fasten 2x M2.5 hex nuts onto the threads of the screws to secure the PAM8302 to the PCB mount. ![3d_printing_amp-mount-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/559/medium640/3d_printing_amp-mount-install.jpg?1634416134) ![3d_printing_amp-mount-secured.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/560/medium640/3d_printing_amp-mount-secured.jpg?1634416137) ## Installed PCBs Double check the Feather and PAM8302 are properly secured to the PCB mount.  ![3d_printing_feather-amp-mount-secured.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/561/medium640/3d_printing_feather-amp-mount-secured.jpg?1634416148) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Handle Assembly > “Twist my widdershins until you reach the null position.” — Talking Computer The steps here apply to _either_ of the two props. The shape of the handle is slightly different between them — the total conversion beam has an angled handle, while it’s perpendicular for the talking computer. Photos below show the angled handle. In both cases, the hole for the trigger button is near the top, and all the wires should be routed out that end of the handle. ## Hardware for Slider Potentiometer Use 2x M2 x 8mm long screws to secure the slider potentiometer to the handle. ![3d_printing_handle-slider-screws.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/562/medium640/3d_printing_handle-slider-screws.jpg?1634417852) ## Install Slider Potentiometer Insert the slide potentiometer through the handle with the cable facing out the top. Fit the nub of the slider through the slit. Line up the potentiometer with the two mounting holes. Insert and fasten the M2 x 8mm screws to secure the slider potentiometer to the handle. ![3d_printing_handle-slider-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/563/medium640/3d_printing_handle-slider-install.jpg?1634416244) ![3d_printing_handle-slider-fasten.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/564/medium640/3d_printing_handle-slider-fasten.jpg?1634417889) ## Secured Slider Potentiometer Double check the slider potentiometer has ben properly secured to the handle. ![3d_printing_handle-slider-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/565/medium640/3d_printing_handle-slider-installed.jpg?1634417881) ## Install Push Button Insert the 16mm push button through the trigger hole of the handle. Fit the cable from the button through the hole and route so it's sticking out the top of the handle. ![3d_printing_handle-btn.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/566/medium640/3d_printing_handle-btn.jpg?1634417919) ![3d_printing_handle-btn-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/567/medium640/3d_printing_handle-btn-install.jpg?1634418000) ## Secure Push Button The interior of the handle is so cramped that we can’t fit the button’s original washer and screw! You can try a rubber o-ring or wrap the button with tape for a tight **press-fit** , or **glue** it from the back with a couple dabs of hot glue or a crafter’s adhesive like E-6000 (use a rubber band to hold the button in place while this dries for a couple hours). ![3d_printing_handle-btn-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/568/medium640/3d_printing_handle-btn-installed.jpg?1634418048) ## Install Battery Insert the 2200mAh battery through the bottom of the handle. Fit the battery through the built-in clip inside the handle. Push the battery through the clip so it's fully fitted inside the handle with the cable sticking out the top. ![3d_printing_handle-battery.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/570/medium640/3d_printing_handle-battery.jpg?1634416960) ![3d_printing_handle-bat-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/571/medium640/3d_printing_handle-bat-install.jpg?1634418137) ## Stuffed Handle Double check the slider potentiometer, push button and battery are secured to the handle with their respective cables facing out the top. ![3d_printing_handle-bat-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/572/medium640/3d_printing_handle-bat-installed.jpg?1634418124) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Total Conversion Beam Assembly These steps apply only to the total conversion beam prop. For the talking computer, you can skip ahead. ## Secure Bottom and Middle Use 3x M3 x 6mm machine screws to secure the bottom and middle parts together. The two parts are joined with the mounting holes lined up. Insert and fasten screws to secure the parts together. ![3d_printing_ray-bot-mid-screws.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/532/medium640/3d_printing_ray-bot-mid-screws.jpg?1634415022) ![3d_printing_ray-bot-mid-fasten.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/534/medium640/3d_printing_ray-bot-mid-fasten.jpg?1634415120) ## Bottom and Middle Double check the two parts are properly secured together. ![3d_printing_ray-bot-mid-secured.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/535/medium640/3d_printing_ray-bot-mid-secured.jpg?1634415139) ## Secure Nose The nose is joined to the middle part with 2x M3 x 10mm long screws. Line up the two mounting holes and fasten the screws to secure the parts together. ![3d_printing_ray-nose-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/538/medium640/3d_printing_ray-nose-install.jpg?1634415249) ![3d_printing_ray-nose-fasten.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/539/medium640/3d_printing_ray-nose-fasten.jpg?1634415263) ## Magnets for Top and Middle 8x magnets are used to join the top and middle parts together. This allows the top to be removed to allow access to the circuit. The two parts feature four 1/4in diameter cavities for fitting the magnets. - 8x [Magnets](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D42) 1/4in diameter - 1/8in thick ![3d_printing_ray-magnets.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/540/medium640/3d_printing_ray-magnets.jpg?1634415296) ## Glue Magnets Use a drop of super glue to permanently secure the magnets to the top and bottom parts.  Take note of the polarities of each magnet. Use a marker to label the north/south poles for reference. ![3d_printing_ray-mags-glue.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/541/medium640/3d_printing_ray-mags-glue.jpg?1634415309) ![3d_printing_ray-mags-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/542/medium640/3d_printing_ray-mags-install.jpg?1634415332) ## Secured Magnets Allow the glue to dry before joining the two parts together. ![3d_printing_ray-mag-halves.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/549/medium640/3d_printing_ray-mag-halves.jpg?1634415657) ## Tip and Top The tip part will need to be glued to the top part. Line up the parts before glueing them together to test fit them. ![3d_printing_ray-top-tip.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/544/medium640/3d_printing_ray-top-tip.jpg?1634415398) ## Glue Tip and Top Add a few drops of super glue to the top surface of the top part. Place the tip over the top part while maintaining good alignment. Allow the super glue to dry before handling the parts. ![3d_printing_ray-top-tip-glue.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/545/medium640/3d_printing_ray-top-tip-glue.jpg?1634415412) ![3d_printing_ray-top-tip-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/546/medium640/3d_printing_ray-top-tip-install.jpg?1634415421) ## Test Fit Parts Bring the two parts together so the magnets snap together. ![3d_printing_ray-top-tip-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/547/medium640/3d_printing_ray-top-tip-installed.jpg?1634415435) ![3d_printing_ray-mag-test.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/548/medium640/3d_printing_ray-mag-test.jpg?1634415443) ## Add LED Holder An additional holder is used to hold the 10mm LED in place. The LED holder is secured over the two screws that are used for the nose part. Remove the two screws and place the LED holder over the mountings holes. Reinstall the two screws to secure the LED holder to the middle and nose parts. ![3d_printing_ray-led-holder.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/550/medium640/3d_printing_ray-led-holder.jpg?1634415522) ![3d_printing_ray-led-holder-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/551/medium640/3d_printing_ray-led-holder-install.jpg?1634415559) ## Installed LED holder Double check the parts are tightly secured together. ![3d_printing_ray-led-holder-fasten.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/553/medium640/3d_printing_ray-led-holder-fasten.jpg?1634415614) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Conversion Beam Handle These steps apply only to the total conversion beam prop. For the talking computer, you can skip ahead. ## Install Handle Place the half of the blaster over the top of the handle. Insert the various cables through the large hole in the half of the blaster. ![3d_printing_handle-ray-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/573/medium640/3d_printing_handle-ray-install.jpg?1634417151) ## Installing Handle Line up the mounting holes from the handle and blaster half. ![3d_printing_handle-ray-holes.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/574/medium640/3d_printing_handle-ray-holes.jpg?1634417187) ## Install PCB Mount Place the PCB mount over the mounting holes of the blaster and handle. Feather’s USB port faces toward the front of the prop. While holding in place, insert and fasten 3x M3x12mm long screws to secure the PCB mount. The screws secure the PCB mount, blaster and handle together. ![3d_printing_handle-ray-mount-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/575/medium640/3d_printing_handle-ray-mount-install.jpg?1634418227) ![3d_printing_handle-ray-mount-fasten.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/576/medium640/3d_printing_handle-ray-mount-fasten.jpg?1634418142) Note: there is a fourth mounting hole, but it’s obscured by the Feather PCB so we’ll just skip it. Three screws should suffice, or you can use a few small dabs of glue to help reinforce the body-to-handle connection. ## Secured PCB mount Double check the PCB mount is properly secured to the blaster and handle. ![3d_printing_handle-ray-mount-secure.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/577/medium640/3d_printing_handle-ray-mount-secure.jpg?1634417369) ## Install LED to Holder Fit the 10mm LED through the clip of the holder inside the half of the blaster. If the LED doesn’t press-fit firmly, a dot of glue will help hold this in place. ![3d_printing_ray-led-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/578/medium640/3d_printing_ray-led-install.jpg?1634417373) ## Install Speaker Peel the adhesive tab and press the speaker face-down into the cavity inside the half of the blaster. ![3d_printing_ray-speaker-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/579/medium640/3d_printing_ray-speaker-install.jpg?1634417455) ## Install Slide Switch Insert the body of the slide switch to the built-in holder inside the half of the blaster. ![3d_printing_ray-switch-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/580/medium640/3d_printing_ray-switch-install.jpg?1634418456) ## Connect Amplifier Plug in the cable from the amplifier to the accompanying connector on the Feather. ![3d_printing_ray-amp-connect.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/581/medium640/3d_printing_ray-amp-connect.jpg?1634417510) ## Connect LED Plug in the cable from the LED to the accompanying connector on the Feather. ![3d_printing_ray-led-connect.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/582/medium640/3d_printing_ray-led-connect.jpg?1634417543) ## Connect Battery Plug in the cable from the battery to the battery port on the Feather M4. ![3d_printing_ray-bat-connect.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/583/medium640/3d_printing_ray-bat-connect.jpg?1634417626) ## Connect Slider Potentiometer Plug in the cable from the slider potentiometer to the accompanying connector on the Feather. ![3d_printing_ray-slider-connect.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/584/medium640/3d_printing_ray-slider-connect.jpg?1634417628) ## Connect Pushbutton Plug in the cable from the push button to the accompanying connector on the Feather. ![3d_printing_ray-btn-connect.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/585/medium640/3d_printing_ray-btn-connect.jpg?1634417679) ## Connect Components Double check all of the components are properly connected. ![3d_printing_ray-comps-connected.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/586/medium640/3d_printing_ray-comps-connected.jpg?1634417704) ## LED Trigger Test Use the slide switch to turn on the Feather. Use the pushbutton to test out the circuit. ![3d_printing_ray-led-test.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/587/medium640/3d_printing_ray-led-test.jpg?1634417716) ## Install Pommel The pommel snap-fits to the bottom of the handle. ![3d_printing_ray-handle-pommel.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/652/medium640/3d_printing_ray-handle-pommel.jpg?1634669932) ![3d_printing_ray-pommel-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/653/medium640/3d_printing_ray-pommel-installed.jpg?1634669941) ## Final Build Place the top half over the body (magnets will click them together) to finish the build. ![3d_printing_ray-final.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/588/medium640/3d_printing_ray-final.jpg?1634417793) ## USB Connect It’s pretty cramped inside the case, and you might need a right-angle or particularly small USB micro-B cable to charge the battery or update the code and sounds. Remember that to update code or sounds over USB, the switch will need to be in the “on” position. ![3d_printing_usb-charging-weapon.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/179/medium640/3d_printing_usb-charging-weapon.jpg?1635966884) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Talking Computer Assembly These steps apply only to the talking computer prop. For the total conversion beam, you can go back. ## Magnets for Melon Halves 8x magnets are used to join the top and bottom parts together. This allows the top to be removed to allow access to the circuit. The two parts feature four 1/4in diameter cavities for fitting the magnets. - 8x [Magnets](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D42) 1/4in diameter - 1/8in thick ![3d_printing_melon-magnets.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/596/medium640/3d_printing_melon-magnets.jpg?1634577047) ## Glue Magnets Use a drop of super glue to permanently secure the magnets to the top and bottom parts.  Take note of the polarities of each magnet. Use a marker to label the north/south poles for reference. ![3d_printing_melon-magnets-glue.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/597/medium640/3d_printing_melon-magnets-glue.jpg?1634577219) ![3d_printing_melon-magnet-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/598/medium640/3d_printing_melon-magnet-install.jpg?1634577229) ## Secured Magnets Allow the glue to dry before joining the two parts together. ![3d_printing_melon-magnets-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/599/medium640/3d_printing_melon-magnets-installed.jpg?1634577240) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Talking Computer Handle These steps apply only to the talking computer prop. For the total conversion beam, you can go back. ## Install Handle Place the half of the melon over the top of the handle. Insert the various cables through the large hole in the half of the blaster. ![3d_printing_melon-handle-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/601/medium640/3d_printing_melon-handle-install.jpg?1634577954) The trigger button on the handle and the speaker grille in the melon-half should point the same way — this is the front of the prop. ## Installing Handle Line up the mounting holes from the handle and melon half. ![3d_printing_melon-handle-installing.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/602/medium640/3d_printing_melon-handle-installing.jpg?1634578029) ## PCB Mount Get the PCB mount ready to install into the half of the melon. ![3d_printing_melon-pcb-mount.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/603/medium640/3d_printing_melon-pcb-mount.jpg?1634578047) ## Install PCB Mount Place the PCB mount over the mounting holes of the melon and handle. Feather’s USB port should point _away_ from the speaker grille. While holding in place, insert and fasten 3x M3x12mm long screws to secure the PCB mount. The screws secure the PCB mount, melon and handle together. ![3d_printing_melon-mount-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/604/medium640/3d_printing_melon-mount-install.jpg?1634578069) ![3d_printing_melon-mount-fasten.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/605/medium640/3d_printing_melon-mount-fasten.jpg?1634578126) Note: there is a fourth mounting hole, but it’s obscured by the Feather PCB so we’ll just skip it. Three screws should suffice, or you can use a few small dabs of glue to help reinforce the body-to-handle connection. ## Secured PCB mount Double check the PCB mount is properly secured to the blaster and handle. ![3d_printing_melon-mount-secured.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/606/medium640/3d_printing_melon-mount-secured.jpg?1634578141) ## Install Speaker Peel the adhesive tab and press the speaker face-down into the cavity inside this half of the melon. ![3d_printing_melon-speaker-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/607/medium640/3d_printing_melon-speaker-install.jpg?1634578282) ## Install Slide Switch Insert the body of the slide switch to the slide switch holder. ![3d_printing_melon-switch-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/608/medium640/3d_printing_melon-switch-install.jpg?1634578798) ## Secure Slide Switch Holder Place the slide switch holder into the melon half. Line up the mounting holes. Insert and fasten 2x M3 x 6mm screws. Use matching hex nuts to secure the slide switch holder to the melon half. ![3d_printing_melon-switch-installing.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/609/medium640/3d_printing_melon-switch-installing.jpg?1634578884) ![3d_printing_melon-switch-secured.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/610/medium640/3d_printing_melon-switch-secured.jpg?1634578893) ## Install LED Insert the 10mm LED through the hole in the top half of the melon part. It might not press-fit firmly, but the next part will help hold it in place… ![3d_printing_melon-led-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/611/medium640/3d_printing_melon-led-install.jpg?1634580986) ## Secure Key Plate Place the key plate over the top half of the melon. Line up the mounting holes. Use 4x M3 x 6mm long screws to secure the key plate to the top melon half. ![3d_printing_melon-keyplate-install.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/612/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keyplate-install.jpg?1634581001) ![3d_printing_melon-keyplate-secure.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/613/medium640/3d_printing_melon-keyplate-secure.jpg?1634581017) ## Connect Components Connect the cables from the various components to their accompanying connectors. ![3d_printing_melon-comps-connect.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/617/medium640/3d_printing_melon-comps-connect.jpg?1634582059) ## Join Melon Halves Bring the top half of the melon to the bottom half to join them together. ![3d_printing_melon-halves-join.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/618/medium640/3d_printing_melon-halves-join.jpg?1634582083) ## Test Circuit Use the slide switch to power on the circuit. Use the push button and key switches to test the circuit. ![3d_printing_melon-led-test.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/619/medium640/3d_printing_melon-led-test.jpg?1634582116) ## Install Pommel  The pommel snap fits on to the bottom of the handle. ![3d_printing_melon-handle-pommel.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/614/medium640/3d_printing_melon-handle-pommel.jpg?1634581236) ![3d_printing_melon-handle-pommel-installed.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/615/medium640/3d_printing_melon-handle-pommel-installed.jpg?1634581247) ## Final Build Your build is ready! Congratulations! ![3d_printing_melon-final.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/105/622/medium640/3d_printing_melon-final.jpg?1634582270) ## USB Connect It’s pretty cramped inside the case, and you might need a right-angle or particularly small USB micro-B cable to charge the battery or update the code and sounds. Remember that to update code or sounds over USB, the switch will need to be in the “on” position. ![3d_printing_usb-charging-computer.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/174/medium640/3d_printing_usb-charging-computer.jpg?1635965141) # Talking Computer from Star Trek ## Use ## Slider Potentiometer Use the potentiometer slider to create a "clicking" sound. This doesn't actually change any of the sounds, it’s just to mimic the prop on the TV show…though if you get into customizing the code, it _could_ be used as a starting point for more sound sets. ![3d_printing_demo-pot-slider.gif](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/106/191/medium640thumb/3d_printing_demo-pot-slider.jpg?1635972549) Info: ## Push Button Trigger Use the push button to play the "blaster" sound. 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