Assembly and Wiring

The diagram above shows all the connections in the completed goggles. But don't solder it all together just yet! The circuit needs to be built into the goggles, take it step-by-step.

The neopixel wiring is a little tricky since it is routed through the goggle frames. Other than the mounting of the processor and sensor, it the same as for the Kaliedoscope Eyes project. See Phil's excellent wiring instructions here,

When installing the rings, leave about 6" of wire attached to 3.3v, GND and D10 to route the right-side of the goggle frame. For the prototype, we used a 3-wire servo-extension cable with the connectors cut off. But 22 awg stranded hookup wire will work as well.

Mounting the Processor

The code for this project will not fit on a tiny processor like the Trinket, so we use a Flora which we have to mount on the outside of the goggles. But hey! We're geeks and we're proud!

There are many ways to approach the problem. Here's your chance to get creative. We'll show you how we built the prototype below. Feel free to add your own personal touch.
Measure a piece of leather or upholstry vinyl to wrap about 1/4 the way around the outside of one of the lenses. Then cut a roughly triangular piece large enough to mount the Flora and the battery case. (Some overhang on the battery case is OK).
Sew the corners of the short side to the padding on the rgoggles. (If the goggles you are using are not symmetrical, make sure that you sew it to the right-side of the goggles. Sew the back corner of the leather to the strap.

Attaching the sensor

For the prototype we attached the LSM303 Accelerometer/Magnetometer directly to the Flora as shown below to allow for fine tuning of its position (and because we thought it looked cool). You can mount it anyway you like - but you will need to modify the code to match the orientation of the axis.

When attached to the goggles, the sensor is near the front edge of the Flora. The code assumes that the X axis is pointing straight back and the Z axis is pointing straight down. There are comments in the code indicating what needs to be changed.

In any case for best results, make sure that you mount the sensor with one axis vertical and one pointing front-to-back when you are wearing the goggles. (The axis are labeled on the sensor silkscreen)

Attaching the Processor and Battery Pack

You can attach the processor and battery pack directly to the leather temple piece using double-sided foam tape or an adhesive like GOOP.

If you mounted your sensor as we did, make sure that the sensor is at the front edge of the Flora and the USB port is facing down.


Optional step:
To add some protection for the electronics, we mounted the Flora and sensor inside a watchmaker's case with holes for the wiring and a cutout for the USB programming cable. Our watchmaker's case is riveted to the temple-piece with aluminum pop-rivets hammered flat on the inside of the case.
Cut a slit in the leather and route the wires from the led rings. We used a servo extension cable with the connectors cut off to make the wiring a little neater, but regular stranded hookup wire will work.

  • Connect the power ground and signal wires to VBATT, GND and D10 on the Flora.
  • Plug the JST connector from the battery pack into the battery socket on the Flora.
  • Make sure that the Flora battery switch is ON!
(Note that we added an external battery switch to the watchmaker's case, but you can just use the switch on the battery pack.)

Final Assembly:

Secure the led rings and internal wiring inside the goggles with hot-glue. For our prototype we used the tinted lenses. For other lens treatment options, see this page.
This guide was first published on Oct 08, 2013. It was last updated on Oct 08, 2013. This page (Assembly and Wiring) was last updated on Nov 18, 2019.