SpokePOV

Parts for the SpokePOV Kit

Check to make sure your kit comes with the following parts. Sometimes we make mistakes so double check everything and email [email protected] if you need replacements!
Picture Name Description Part # Distributor Qty.

projects_attiny2313dip.jpg

IC1 Microcontroller
Pre-programmed when purchased as part of a kit.
ATtiny2313V-10PU Digikey
Mouser
or
Adafruit(programmed)
1

projects_20pinsocket.jpg

IC1* 20 Pin Socket Generic Mouser
Digikey
1

projects_eeprom.jpg

IC2 4 Kbyte EEPROM 25LC320, CAT25320 or AT25320 (4K SPI EEPROM) Digikey
Mouser
1

projects_8pinsocket.jpg

IC2* 8 Pin Socket Generic Mouser
Digikey
1

projects_74hc595.jpg

IC3-IC10 Serial to Parallel latch 74HC595 Mouser
Digikey 
8

projects_halleffect.jpg

X1 Hall effect sensor DN6852
or
US5881
Digikey 1

projects_waterproofbutton.jpg

S1 Waterproof switch SKQBAKA010
or
SKQBALA010
Mouser 1

projects_10pinIDC.jpg

J2 Programming Header 30310-6002HB Mouser
Digikey
1

projects_AA_clip.jpg

AA battery clips Keystone 92 Mouser
Digikey
4 (red, yellow) or 6 (green, blue)

projects_104cerm.jpg

C1 0.1uF ceramic capacitor Generic 1

projects_electrolytic_axial.jpg

C2 47uF to 100uF axial capacitor Generic Digikey 1

projects_BrownBlackOrangeGold.gif

R1 1/4W 5% 10K resistor (brown black orange) Generic 1

projects_10pinresnet.jpg

RN1-RN8 10-pin bussed 9 resistor network 33-39 ohm for yellow LEDs
33-39 ohm for red LEDs
56 or 68 ohm for blue LEDs
56 or 68 ohm for green LEDs
27 ohm - (Digikey,Mouser
39 ohm - (Digikey,Mouser
56 ohm - (Digikey,Mouser
68 ohm - (Digikey,Mouser)
8

projects_clear5mmled.jpg

LED1-LED60 LED High Brightness 5mm LED LEDshoppe
ABCtronics
60

projects_spokepovpcb_t.jpg

PCB Silkscreened PCB Custom Adafruit 1

SpokePOV Kit Assembly Instructions

Get your bench set up for soldering.
Place the PCB in a good board holder.

In v1.1 two components have been added, C1 and C2. These parts add power supply stability!

Start by inserting C2 by bending the legs and placing it in the circuit board. C2 is a polarized capacitor.This means it should be soldered in a certain way and if you put it in backwards it can be damaged or even explode!

If you look carefully you will see a bump on one end of the capacitor, and on the circuit board the printed image also has a bump. Check the photo if you are not sure.

Next, insert C1, which is a non-polarized capacitor; it can go in either way.
Bend the wire legs of the capacitors and turn the PCB over in the vice. Now you can solder the parts in.
Use your trusty soldering iron to solder each of the 4 wires to the round pads.
Use diagonal cutters to clip the excess wire, cut close to the end of the solder point.
Place the 4 battery clips in the top two battery positions, as shown. Tack them in place with solder so that when you turn the board over they won't fall out!
Now turn the board over and solder the outer tabs of the clips first and then resolder the inner tabs. Make sure there's plenty of solder: these connections are not just electrical, they're mechanical too!
Put in the programming socket, make sure to align the notch with the picture on the PCB. Now turn the PCB over and hold the socket in place while you solder it in.
Place the large socket as shown. There's a notch in the socket which should line up with the notch in the image of the socket. The notch will help you align the microcontroller chip in properly. Turn the board over and hold the socket in with a finger, tack two corners pins to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.
Solder in the smaller socket just like the larger one.

Place the 6 top 74HC595 latches in the proper spots, making sure to align the notches on the chip with the notches in the pictures. Tack them in place by soldering two corner pins of each one from the top. Then turn the board over and solder all the pins.

Next, do the same with the 2 latches on the reverse side.

LEDs are diodes, that means they only work in one direction, unlike resistors. That means you must put the LED in right or it won't work!

How do you know which way is which? That's easy, the LEDs have one leg that is slightly longer! That leg is the "anode" positive leg. The shorter one is the "cathode" negative lead.

Grab the LED back and place the first 30 into the front row. Make sure the longer lead/wire of the LED is in the hole closest to the edge of the board. Otherwise the LED will not light up. This is a pretty common mistake so please work slowly and carefully :) Sometimes the LEDs have the flattened edge of the plastic wrong so go with the length of the leads. Longer lead goes in the hole closest to the edge of the baord

When you place each LED, bend the leads out so that it won't fall out when you turn the board over.

Solder the LEDs and clip the leads, either one at a time or all at once, whichever is easiest for you.

Repeat for the other row of LEDs.

On this side, it can be a little tough to see which side is 'flattened'

On this side of the kit (with the battery connectors as shown on the left) - the longer leg of the LED goes in the hole along the edge of the PCB.

Sometimes the LEDs have the flattened edge of the plastic wrong so go with the length of the leads. Longer lead goes in the hole closest to the edge of the board
Solder in the 8 9-SIP resistor networks. Make sure you align them correctly: one side of the resistor pack has a dot which corresponds to pin 1 which is marked with an X in the picture on the circuit board.
Place the one 10K resistor. Bend the leads like with the LEDs and solder it in, then clip the leads off.
Place the button, which will snap into place. Solder it in.
Bend the sensor so that the face points out as shown. Since the sensor has to stick out but has short leads, solder it from the top, making sure that the leads don't stick too far through on the other side. See the picture to the left.
Put the microcontroller in the socket so that the notches match up. The sensor can 'lean' on the microcontroller. If you want, you can use a bit of glue to support it.
Place the EEPROM in the smaller socket so that the notches line up. You're done!

Now that you're done assembling it, you can test the board to make sure it's functioning. Put two (or three) good AA batteries into the clips. Whenever the microcontroller gets notice of a 'hard reset' it goes through a little test routine where it lights up all the LEDs in order, then it lights up one LED on each side of the SpokePOV to indicate that it's still on. The actual LED itself will vary as it is used for debugging.

If none of the LEDs are lighting up, go back and check to see if you put in any latches, batteries or the microcontroller in backwards. If just a few LEDs arent lighting up, check if they're in backwards.

SpokePOVs now come pre-programmed with some sample images. You can trigger the images using a magnet, sweep it past the sensor a few times and then wave it in the air, you should see a pattern displayed.

Can't get it working? Don't worry, help is available in the forums!

Last updated on 2015-11-20 at 05.10.35 PM Published on 2014-04-17 at 04.10.04 PM