Solder the included screw terminals to the audio FX board.
Turn the board over and solder on your JST battery connector (not included with audio board).
We won't use all the pins near the USB end of the board, and we want the battery connector to hang over the edge of the breadboard, so trim your headers as shown to allow the board to overhang.
While plugged into your solderless breadboard, solder the header pins in place from the top.
Now's also the time to load up your sounds over USB. Read more about how in the Audio FX Board guide. We loaded a bunch to play randomly when pin 7 is triggered.
To prepare your vibration switch, set it up in a pair of helping hands and tin the leads with a little solder.
Also strip and tin two stranded wires.
Apply a small piece of heat shrink tubing and reflow the solder between that wire and the center pole of the vibration switch.
Slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and solder the other wire to the outer pole of the vibration switch.
Use a larger piece of heat shrink tubing to cover the while union. That outer wire is pretty fragile, so this heat shrink tubing adds some stability by also bridging the can of the switch, so make sure your piece is long enough to cover everything!
Depending on the action you want to trigger your circuit, you might try the fast and slow vibration switches to see what you like best. It is helpful to label them.
We found that the fast switch was triggered by touching the box at all, and even when the subway rumbles past. The slow switch had to be shook very hard and/or flicked to be triggered. You can adjust how much the switch rattles in the box to further adjust sensitivity during the next steps.
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