This tool just uses 2 of the 12mm threaded standoffs.

Start by completely screwing one post into another until you feel some resistance.

Continue tightening about an additional 1/6 turn until and line up the flat edges. Don't over-tighten or the plastic could break off. The idea is to have more friction between these two standoffs than you will have with the standoff you are installing.

To use, just thread the standoff that you are installing onto the threads of the tool you assembled. Just use a minimal amount of friction since you want it to come off of the tool when it's installed.

Screw the standoff into a nut. When it is tight enough, just hold it in place with a finger or flathead screwdriver and unscrew the tool from the installed standoff.

Make sure to remove any supports. A small flathead screwdriver or so small needle-nosed pliers should work well.

For the bottom, you'll need this hardware:

• The Case Bottom
• 4 x 12mm nylon M2.5 standoffs
• 4 x nylon M2.5 nuts

Insert the Raspberry Pi 4 in the bottom case. Make sure you don't have a MicroSD card inserted! You'll want to have the A/V ports go in first before pushing the other side down so that it is sitting flat.

Place a nut into the hex insert on the bottom of the case.

Install a standoff through the Pi and into the nut you inserted using a tool.

Install standoffs into the remaining corners.

Place the motor HAT onto the Pi. You can use the upper left side of the case (the corner furthest away from any ports) to easily align the GPIO headers.

For the top, you'll need this hardware:

• The Case Top
• 2 x Speaker Retainers of the appropriate size
• 4 x 8mm screws you set aside from disassembling the bear

Place the speaker into the speaker holder.

Install the speaker retainers on each side of the speaker using the screws from the bear.

The wires are a bit of a tight fit, so it's easier to install them in the MAX98357 terminal first. Place the wires in the appropriate terminal so that they have enough length once installed.

Once installed, you may need to bend the wires a little to the sides to give them enough room to fit.

Install the MAX98357 using 2 more screws from the bear.

Place the wiring for the foot in the slot in the case.

Tie a knot in the wiring close to the case, just on the outside.

Now lift up the wire and place it so the knot so it is on the inside. This will act as a strain relief.

This is a good time to install the wiring for the motor power. On the USB cable, the negative wire is the side with the white stripes. Be sure to install correctly to avoid any damage.

If you built an adapter, just use the jumper wires instead.

Install the lid by placing it directly over the case bottom and lowering it. If the strain relief knot is in the way, you can push it in temporarily while placing the lid. It may take a little bit of adjusting if some of the wires are in the way.

You will need four 10mm nylon screws to attach the lid.

Install the screws into the top. Only turn just enough that it feels a little snug. It's very easy to overturn the screws and break them.

You may also want to loosen the appropriate screws for the motor wire terminals. However, those can be installed after the case is assembled.

When you connect the wires from the bear, the wire order is important. Install the wires to the M2 and M2 terminals as shown in the photo.

If you went with the easier install option, just plug the speaker into one of the USB ports of the Raspberry Pi. We'll show you how to configure it later.

Be sure to install the USB microphone.

If you would like to be able to control where the sound is picked up, you could use a simple USB extension cable.

To power the Raspberry Pi and motors, you'll want the USB power bank along with a short USB cable. If you don't have any extras, you can use the USB cable that came with the power bank.

Connect the USB cable between one port of the power Bank and the Raspberry Pi.

Connect the other USB cable for motor power to the other port.

If the power bank turns on automatically, you can force it back off by double-pressing the power button.

Remove as much stuffing as you need. Depending on the build options you decided on, you may need to remove a little or a lot of the stuffing from the bear.

If you used the external speaker, place it inside the head. Keep taking out stuffing as needed. The fit is a bit tight.

If you placed your microphone on an extension, you will want to place this in the head at the same time. Try and keep it as close to the surface as possible so the stuffing doesn't muffle the sound too much.

Replace some of the stuffing back into the head afterwards until if feels like it is held in place and the head looks normal. 

Place any excessively long cords into the bear next. Keep the USB plugs that go into the battery accessible.

Place the enclosure into the bear next. There's a small hole so you can see the status lights. Having that face down lets you easily know if the Pi is powered up or not. Continue adding stuffing, but leave room for the battery.

Place the battery in. Add some more stuffing.  Add just enough so the body looks natural. Remember, you will need to remove the battery pack to charge it or turn it off and on.

Be careful of the plugs sticking out of the Pi. It's easy to accidentally break off connectors with everything jammed in so tight.

Finally close the flap using the velcro under the tail.

Check how well the bear sits. You may need to shift things around a bit or add or remove stuffing if it doesn't look right.

Keep in mind, the speaker in the head can make it a bit top heavy, which can cause it to fall over when the arms move. Try and keep most of the weight a bit lower if possible.