Once the parts are 3D printed and software is burnt and ready for use, we can start wiring the components.
With wires now added to the LED, button and PowerBoost, just a few easy connections are required to the Raspberry Pi:
- PowerBoost 500C output connects to 5V and GND.
- LED sequin + connects to GPIO5, – to GND.
- Halt button connects to GPIO21 and GND.
If required, the LED and button pins can be changed; this is explained on the “Using It” page. Maybe you find it easier to route the wires to a different spot, or are building a camera with custom features.
Here’s a full map of the Pi’s GPIO header, with our connections highlighted in blue. Although this project does not use a PiTFT display, those pins are marked “maybe” off-limits in the diagram below, since adding a screen (with a different enclosure) might be a popular upgrade project for ambitious makers.
OK, now most of our components are wired up. We can run a test to see if everything works.
- Insert the SD card to the Pi.
- Connect the Pi camera module to the Pi.
- Plug in the JST connector from the 500mAh lipo battery to the PowerBoost 500C.
If the blue LED turns on, the slide switch is on and Pi will power up. If not, slide the switch to turn it on. The Pi will take about ~1min to boot up (on initial startup). You should see the LED sequin turn on each time the Pi takes a photo.
Allow it to run for a few minutes collecting photos, so you can confirm the camera connection is solid before sealing everything up.
If it’s all working as expected, hold down the 6mm slim button for about ~3 seconds and wait about 30 seconds for the Pi to safey shut down. Then, turn off the PowerBoost 500C with the slide switch.
Remove the SD card from the Pi and insert it into your computer. Your photos will show up in the “timelapse” folder.
Once you’re satisfied everything’s operational, we can move on to mounting the circuit into the 3D-printed case…