Before commencing assembly, confirm your kit contains all the following parts:
-
LCD panel with Driver board attached
-
9V switching power supply
- DisplayPort cable
- Thirteen (13) laser-cut pieces
- Twelve (12) #4-40 x 1/2" nylon screws w/nuts
- Four (4) #4-40 x 5/8" nylon screws w/nuts (a little longer than the 1/2" ones)
- Four (4) #2-56 x 1/4" screws w/nuts (these are much smaller and thinner)
Tools needed:
- Small screwdriver
- Optional: masking tape is very helpful for holding screws temporarily, but is not absolutely required.
The flexible cable that joins the LCD to the driver board is delicate. Some steps require bending it in one direction or another. Work slowly and methodically so as not to damage it.
Start by peeling the backing paper off both sides of all the laser-cut parts. It’s easiest to start at a corner, catching the edge of the paper with a fingernail.
The laser-cutting process sometimes leaves a little paper soot at the edges. If you like, you can wash these off with soap and water, just be absolutely certain that all the parts are completely dry before proceeding!
Optional: testing the LCD and driver board before assembly may avoid some troubleshooting later. Read ahead to the “How to Use” page for guidance.
Warning: this requires straightening the flex cable. Be extremely careful not to pull or strain this delicate part.
Rather than placing the driver board to the side, you can keep it behind the display, but place something like an index card or piece of paper between the two to prevent an electrical short.
You may want to remove the protective film at this time as well, pull on the yellow tab to carefully remove the film
Warning: this requires straightening the flex cable. Be extremely careful not to pull or strain this delicate part.
Rather than placing the driver board to the side, you can keep it behind the display, but place something like an index card or piece of paper between the two to prevent an electrical short.
You may want to remove the protective film at this time as well, pull on the yellow tab to carefully remove the film
Locate these four laser-cut parts. For the sake of later explanation, let’s refer to these (top-to-bottom) as the “bow tie,” “legs” and “cross brace.”
The bow tie and cross brace have no up or down, left or right; they can be installed any which way. The legs have a specific orientation, but there is no “right leg” or “left leg” — they’re interchangeable.
Start by picking up the cross brace…
The bow tie and cross brace have no up or down, left or right; they can be installed any which way. The legs have a specific orientation, but there is no “right leg” or “left leg” — they’re interchangeable.
Start by picking up the cross brace…
This kit uses t-slot construction. Slide a nut into the cross part of the T at either end of the cross brace, then hold it in place between finger and thumb.
If you need an extra hand in the steps that follow, the nut can also be held in place temporarily with a bit of masking tape.
If you need an extra hand in the steps that follow, the nut can also be held in place temporarily with a bit of masking tape.
Slots in the leg pieces are “keyed” to fit into the tabs on the cross brace. Position a leg using these tabs and slots, then install a #4-40 1/2" screw through the middle, meeting up with the nut held in the cross brace.
You do not need to crank these screws down. Finger tight is fine for now.
You do not need to crank these screws down. Finger tight is fine for now.
Repeat with the second leg at the opposite end of the cross brace. Both legs should be oriented the same way, as seen here.
The “bow tie” now joins with the legs, using the same t-slot technique with four #4-40 1/2" screws and nuts.
The bow tie is symmetrical, so you can install it any which way.
The bow tie is symmetrical, so you can install it any which way.
Use a screwdriver to gently tighten all the screws in place now. (You do not need to crank these down hard, or else you’ll crack the plastic!)
The rear stand is complete. Set it aside and we’ll return to it later.
The rear stand is complete. Set it aside and we’ll return to it later.
Here’s the front bezel. Like the bow tie before, this piece is completely symmetrical; there is no front or back, left or right.
However, once assembled the display definitely takes on a top and bottom. Pick one of the longer edges (either one) and call it “top.” This is important for the placement of the four longer screws (5/8" instead of 1/2"). The long screw positions are indicated at left. All the other holes will receive 1/2" screws.
However, once assembled the display definitely takes on a top and bottom. Pick one of the longer edges (either one) and call it “top.” This is important for the placement of the four longer screws (5/8" instead of 1/2"). The long screw positions are indicated at left. All the other holes will receive 1/2" screws.
Insert a screw into each hole (1/2" or 5/8", as appropriate to the above diagram). The bezel will need to be flipped over later, so as you place each screw, secure it with a bit of tape, or you can use the nuts temporarily to keep the screws from sliding out (you’ll need to remove these nuts later).
Once all the screws are placed, set the bezel face down on your work surface. Turn it so the “top” (with the longer screws) is at the…well…top.
If you used nuts instead of tape, you can remove these now (keeping the screws in place).
If you used nuts instead of tape, you can remove these now (keeping the screws in place).
Unlike most of the other parts, the four L-shaped corner supports are all unique and have a very specific orientation. Each is etched with a letter: A, B, C and D.
Slide each of the corner supports over the screws in the correct positions. The etched letter should be visible and in the correct orientation for reading. A at the top left, B at the top right, C at the bottom left, D at the bottom right.
The upper and lower supports each share “half a screw” in common. This is normal.
The upper and lower supports each share “half a screw” in common. This is normal.
The LCD can now be placed face-down between the corner supports, and all the various protuberances should fit neatly into corresponding cutouts around the perimeter. It may need a little wiggle to make this happen.
If anything seems to require force, stop! Make sure all the pieces are installed in the correct positions and alignments.
If anything seems to require force, stop! Make sure all the pieces are installed in the correct positions and alignments.
Another layer of edge pieces now fit over the screws and hold the screen from the back. These parts are symmetrical left to right and can go either way, but the top and bottom are unique. The wider edge should go at the bottom, and the right and left pieces should be flipped as needed to match.
With the edge pieces in place, six nuts can be installed over the shorter (1/2") screws, in the positions marked here. The four longer screws should not receive nuts yet!
You can leave these nuts just “finger tight” for now. We’ll make a pass later after everything’s assembled.
You can leave these nuts just “finger tight” for now. We’ll make a pass later after everything’s assembled.
Now let’s go back to the rear stand that you assembled earlier…
The “bow tie” has eight holes in it, but we’ll only be using four. Looking at the flat side (the legs should poke out the back, not forward), install the four tiny #2-56 screws in the positions indicated here.
The extra holes allow this piece to be flipped either way in the earlier assembly steps; less aggravating that way.
The extra holes allow this piece to be flipped either way in the earlier assembly steps; less aggravating that way.
To reiterate a prior point: these screws should sit flush, pointing back, not forward. Getting this wrong will break the LCD!
This is the tricky part. Be careful with that flex cable!
Set the “bow tie” carefully near the top of the screen. Pick up the driver board and…being very mindful of the flex cable, don’t tear or pull it out…lower it on to the four small screws on the bow tie. Then add a nut for each.
Now flip the bow tie / support over, remove the tape and tighten the four small screws.
You’ll need to twist the flex cable a bit to do this. That’s fine…work slowly and don’t kink or jerk it.
You’ll need to twist the flex cable a bit to do this. That’s fine…work slowly and don’t kink or jerk it.
Carefully turn the stand over and lower it onto the four 5/8" screws. Add a nut to each and finger tighten.
Stand the screen up and remove the tape pieces (if used) from the front bezel. Give it a very gentle tap on the desk to make sure everything’s seated, then work around the perimeter tightening these screws. Just snug them down a little…don’t go crazy or you’ll crack the plastic.
You can connect the power and DisplayPort cables now if you like, routing them under the cross brace piece or out either side.
You can connect the power and DisplayPort cables now if you like, routing them under the cross brace piece or out either side.
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