The voiceover transcript is available below.
We’ll start the assembly by building the emitter.
Join the emitter cap to the LED plate and line up the mount holes. Then insert the brass standoffs into these holes. Now we can insert two screws into the remaining holes.
Tightly fasten lock nuts onto the thread of the screws to secure the parts.
Next we’ll set the RGB LED and battery.
Insert the JST cable from the LED and put it through the hole in the middle of the emitter.
Grab the battery holder and pass it through the JST cable. Place the wires on one of the groves.
Then, fit the battery through the holder. Make sure the cable is facing outside.
Now we can begin to fit the battery through the top of the hilt.
With the cable going in first, insert the battery holder and fit it through the hilt.
You can then start to screw the emitter cap onto the hilt. Be sure to pull the battery cable out the other end.
Next we can install the mini toggle switch. Grab the cables to make room and insert the switch into the opening on the hilt.
Fit the actuator through the mounting hole so it sticks out the other side. Now we can add the washer and hex nut over the stem of the switch.
Grab the LED and position it so the mounting holes line up with the brass standoffs.
Begin to insert and fasten machine screws to secure the PCB. Use a screwdriver to tightly fasten the screws.
Next we’ll setup the feather and propmaker with the PCB holders.
This will make it easier to fit the PCBs through the hilt.
These fit over the mounting holes and clip onto the edges.
You’ll need to install these on both ends of the PCB.
Double check and make sure the tabs are lined up with the mounting holes.
You can go ahead and secure them in place using M2.5 nylon screws.
The groves on the sides will allow this slide through the rails inside the hilt.
Next we’ll install the speaker.
Start by threading the cable through the opening on the side of the hilt.
Pull the cable through the bottom and keep the speaker outside the hilt.
Now we can start to install the PCB holders through the hilt.
Line up the groves with the rails and push the PCBs through the bottom.
Insert it about half way through and get ready to plug in the speaker and battery.
Grab the speaker cable and plug it into the speaker port.
After that we gather up the remaining JST cable and plug them up. Here we’re making the connections for the LED and switch.
With those now plugged in, we can go ahead and connect the battery to the feather.
The PCBs can now be pushed up inside the body of the hilt.
And we should still have access to the microUSB port.
You can then grab the pommel and screw it onto the bottom of the hilt.
One of the last parts to install is the speaker
Start by peeling off the protective backing and then go ahead and stick it into the speaker holder. You’ll need to press fit it into the holder.
Now we can install the speaker holder onto the hilt.
Groves on the inside of the holder wrap around the rail along the outside of hilt.
You can pull apart the clip to fit it over the hilt.
Next we can set up the lens holder and blade.
Place the focusing lens over the center of the holder. Then grab the lens cover and line up the parts so they press fit. The lens cover twist locks into place.
The shield covering is then installed to the outside of the lens holder.
With the lens holder now assembled, we can screw it on top of the emitter. These parts have threads so they’ll need to be tightly fastened.
With the emitter now put together, you can install the blade. This can be press fitted over the lens holder. The tolerances are snug but it’s still removable. For a more permanent hold, you can use super glue or other adhesives.
Go ahead and turn it on – Check out the light diffusion in the blade. Different types of filaments will affect the light diffusion. The focusing lens contains the light and helps prevent light leaking.
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