Final Wire Check

It’s a good idea to check all the wiring before closing it up. It is relatively easy to open and adjust but you should consider reviewing all the connections. If you think you have too much excess wire, now would be a good time to can trim them down.

Plug Battery

Get the 2000mAh battery and insert the cable to the JST port on the powerboost 1000c. You might want to bend it at a right-angle so you can fit it in the case.

Tack Battery

I added a small piece of fun-tak to the back of the battery so it stick the back of the Perma-Proto PCB. This fun-tak stuff from loctite works really well cause it hold it in place, but easy to remove and doesn’t leave behind any sticky gunk.

Stick Battery

Go ahead and stick the battery onto the Perma-Proto PCB.

Installed Battery

Seems to be the best place for the battery. I would recommend wrapping this up in gaffers tape but when I did that it no longer fit, so at least you know now. We snipped off all the pointy stuff anyway, so it should be safe. Also note there’s actually not too much force or pressuring being applied to the battery when it’s enclosed.

Close GPIO headers

With two hands, you want to pick up both parts of the enclosure and start closing it together. The first thing you wanna do is line up the header pins from the Pi to the socket on the PiTFT. Once their lined up, squeeze the two parts together to connect it.

Wire Kink Check

The top section should be closed now, leaving the bottom and sides a bit open. This is where you need to make sure none of the wires are outside the enclosure - it’s easy to close it up and kink a wire when doing this. You’ll most likely get the two magnets to snap together here since they’re pretty strong.

Fasten Last Screw

OK we’re totally almost finished. Grab a single #4-40 ⅜ flat phillips machine screw and insert it into the bottom corner on the back of the enclosure. Hold the two parts together while you fasten the screw all the way through the enclosure. The whole screw will go inside the enclosure and fasten two standoffs together. This single screw keeps the two halves together. The magnet keeps the other corner closed while the top is closed with the aid of the GPIO header. And thats about it!

Final Build

This build was a lot easier to wire and assemble than the previous PiGRRL projects. Using the perma-proto and tactile buttons in my opinion are more hassle free and ultimately feel better, too. There’s a bit of extra room in the enclosure for other components and buttons, so feel encouraged to customize.

 The audio out of the Pi A+ isn't the best quality so there may be some hissing. You can minimize this by increasing the volume on the Pi as much as possible using alsamixer and/or the emulator's sound controls and adjusting the audio amp volume down to a comfy level

I Made One, YES!

If you made one, we want to see it!! We ask that you please share it with us. Send us a photo on twitter, better yet posit it on Thingiverse - Take photos of your build and post a make on the thingiverse page. We'll feature your build on our 3D Hangouts show! You can even share it with us on Adafruit Show & Tell show! Post it on any social channel - use hastags #PiGRRL #Adafruit so we can find it easily.

This guide was first published on May 14, 2015. It was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

This page (Assembly) was last updated on Apr 06, 2015.

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