Some soldering steps take place close to pieces of the case. Be very careful where you set your soldering iron so as not to damage the plastic parts! Also watch out for flux spatter.
During the soldering and assembly process, certain parts will become “tethered” together by wires…always pick up and move these parts together, don’t let pieces hang by the wires…this could damage parts or solder joints.
You probably have the newer version of this kit. It’s explained on the prior page.
It’s normal for a bit of solder to drain or “wick” down the hole being soldered…in fact, this is good and proper soldering technique. But only a little. If you keep feeding solder, the socket holes on the other side will fill in with solder and won’t plug into the Raspberry Pi!
These cables are a bit over a foot long. We don’t need that much length inside the case, so we’ll be cutting them in half. Do not throw away the other half! We’ll be repurposing the extra wire in a subsequent step.
The data cable has wide connectors at both ends. One should be left connected, the other can be clipped off and discarded.
If you inadvertently cut the wrong connector off the power cable, you may be able to salvage it using a jeweler’s screwdriver to push the pin sockets out (there’s a small tab on the side that keeps them in place) and replace the connector at the other end.
You should also have five loose wires (two black, one red, yellow and green). Keep these for later steps.
The two connectors (one small, one wide) can be discarded.
NC (Normally Closed)
NO (Normally Open)
Do not do this with the serial data cable! Use the spare wire pieces.
This is a tight squeeze for the wire, like threading a needle. It may help to turn the wire a bit while passing it through, to keep the strands from fraying. It may take a few tries…you can remove the wire, re-twist it, and try again.
The NC (Normally Closed) pin is NOT CONNECTED.
There is no front or back side for the top piece…you can insert the button either way.
The large center leg corresponds to the power supply tip, which will be +5V.
The “outer” of the two small legs is the power supply ring (ground).
The “inner” small leg is not connected.
Twist the wires a bit to prevent the strands from fraying.
Remember, the “inner” small leg is not connected.
In the next few steps, we’ll be connecting components to the Cobbler according to the following diagram:
- Solder the GREEN wire to the RXD pin on the Cobbler
- Solder the YELLOW wire to the TXD pin on the Cobbler
- The BLACK wire can go to any GND pin, but the next in line on the Cobbler is especially tidy.
The wires are inserted from the top side of the board and soldered on the underside.
Components that are installed in case pieces are now soldered to the Cobbler. Once these are tethered together like this, they can’t be separated. Always pick up and move these parts together as a set. Don’t let pieces hang by the wires.
RED from DC jack to 5V0 on Cobbler
- BLACK from DC jack to GND on Cobbler
GREEN from button to #18 on Cobbler
BLACK from button to GND on Cobbler
YELLOW from button to #23 on Cobbler