Using “T-Slots”
The case is assembled using “t-slot” construction, common among laser-cut kits. You’ll notice a couple case parts (back and center support) have t-shaped slots along their edges. These slots hold nuts, while perpendicular case parts have holes for a corresponding machine screw.
Let’s start with the center support piece…that’s the part with four t-slots and a long tab that looks like a nose or something.
For the 2017 kit: this piece is asymmetrical…it has a specific right and left. Viewed from the front, the long tab is offset to the left.
For pre-2017 kits: this piece has no right or left…you can flip it around either way…but it definitely has a top and bottom.
Let’s start with one of the t-slots at the top. Insert a nut into the cross part of the “t” and hold it there between finger and thumb.
Insert the tab from the center support into the corresponding slot on a side piece — this is the off-center slot slightly towards the front. Make sure the tops and bottoms of the two pieces are oriented the same.
When properly aligned, insert a 1/2" #4-40 machine screw into the hole directly over the nut.
Never crank down hard on the case screws or you’ll break the acrylic.
Connect Back Piece
We’ll repeat some steps similar to the above, this time with the back piece. This is connected by wires to the thermal printer (and Cobbler board, on pre-2017 kits). Be very careful to always move these around as a unit…don’t tug on the wires else your solder joints (or the parts they’re connected to) may break.
Make sure the tops of the two parts are aligned. In this picture the case is being held at an angle to access the slot…the top of the case faces the bottom-right.
The parts probably won’t be perfectly square at this stage. That’s perfectly okay…things will become progressively more aligned as the rest of the case goes together.
Stand the partial case up on its side and move the top piece (with button and thermal printer attached) roughly into position. Don’t fit this into the slots yet, just an approximate position.
Route the cables so that the button wires pass through the openings in the center support. For pre-2017 kits, position the T-Cobbler below the printer. You might need to turn some parts around or temporarily disconnect the cables from the printer to achieve a good fit.
Connect Second Side
This is why the printer isn’t slotted into place yet…it would block some t-slots that we still need access to. We’ll come back to it in a moment…
Repeat with the remaining three nuts and screws. You should now have a box with four sides and eight nuts & screws installed.
Loosen the corresponding two upper screws so the tip of the screw is flush with the face of the nut (but not so loose that it falls out…if this happens, move the top/printer piece out of the way and repeat the prior steps).
Tighten all four screws with a screwdriver. Just “finger tight” is sufficient for now…there’s a few more sequences like this ahead yet…
Slot one end of the front piece into the side of the case. The “torn receipt” effect should be at the bottom. There’s no front or back to this piece, it can go either way, but Nimbus, our Internet of Things cloud mascot, wears his pompadour to the left.
Loosen the two screws at the back of the case 1/2 turn. Loosen the two front screws so the tip is flush with the nut.
The piece we’re inserting is a little different this time: rather than tabs and slots, there’s a small nubbin at either side that fits into a circular hole on each side of the case. This piece hangs open for now.
Tighten the four screws as before.
For the 2017-and-later kit, plug in the connections as shown here.
The end of the data cable with the trimmed plug should connect to the Pi. See how it makes space for the adjacent jumper wire?
For the pre-2017 kit: Gently install the Cobbler board on to the Raspberry Pi GPIO header. Support the Pi board from below with the tips of your fingers…this prevents strain on the board and the case.
Make sure all the pins are properly aligned with the header. If it’s off by one pin in any direction, there’s the possibility of damaging the board when the power supply is connected.
If you need access to the Raspberry Pi board later (to change out the SD card or connect a monitor for troubleshooting), you can unlatch and swing this open later…no need to dismantle the whole case.
Many power supplies look alike. Make absolutely certain you’re connecting the 5 Volt supply included with the kit! Anything more will likely kill the Raspberry Pi board.
Page last edited February 20, 2013
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