Be sure to remove any supports from the 3D printing first.

You will need 4 x M2.5 6mm long M-F Hex Standoffs, 4 x M2.5 10mm long M-F Hex Standoffs, and 8 x M2.5 Hex Nuts.

Place the 10mm long standoffs in the holes of the smaller rectangle and the 6mm long standoffs in the larger rectangle. Use the nuts on the underside to secure them in place.

Next you will need 8 x 4mm long M2.5 screws, the wii nunchuck adapter, and an assembled FeatherWing Doubler.

Secure the doubler in place in such a way that the USB port of the feather is towards the outside edge of the base.

For the Nunchuck adapter, the connector should face away from the doubler and can otherwise be secured with the STEMMA QT ports facing either up or down.

Place the Feather and PWM FeatherWing into the doubler with the Feather in between the PWM Wing and the Nunchuck Adapter.

Slide the Pan and Tilt Assembly into the slot. It can fit in either way, but you will need to update the firmware to invert the pitch if you have it pointing downwards.

Plug the panning servo into PWM channel 0 and the tilting servo into PWM channel 1.

Next take the laser module with the connector soldered on and the laser holder. If the laser is a bit tight, you can apply some pressure to open the gap a bit.

Insert the laser holder and laser into the top of the pan and tilt assembly and the two clips should hold it in place.

Plug the laser into channel 2 on the PWM FeatherWing.

Use a screwdriver to connect the 2.1mm barrel connector adapter to the PWM FeatherWing. Make sure the polarity of the wires is correct!

Connect the STEMMA QT cable between the Feather and the Nunchuck adapter.

Connect the Nunchuck to the adapter board with the notch facing the direction indicated on your board.

In order to power the Feather in addition to the motors and servos with a single power supply so that you don't need to be plugged into a computer, you can use a 2.1mm barrel jack splitter along with a 2.1mm barrel jack to USB-C adapter.

That's it! Everything is assembled.