The 3D printed parts are fairly easy to make with most common home desktop 3D printers that are on the market.

And if you don’t have access a 3D printer, you can order our parts by visiting our Thingiverse page and have someone local 3D print the parts and ship them to you.


Slice Settings

Download the STL file and import it into your 3D printing slicing software. You'll need to adjust your settings accordingly if you're using material different than PLA.


  • 230C Extruder Temp
  • No heated bed (65C for heated)
  • 1.0 Extrusion Multiplier
  • .4mm Nozzle
  • 0.48 Extrusion Width
  • .2mm Layer Height
  • 30% infill
  • No Supports
  • 90mm/s | 120mm travel speed

Print case without supports


The enclosure features mounts on both sides with a  cutout through the model for mounting the battery. To avoid adding supports, we can orient the model to print on its side. This worked out really well as the overhangs start to catch themselves after a couple of layers!


You can about 6 skirts (brims) the help adhere the enclosure to the build plate

Use supports for clip


The screw mount for the clip may need a small amount of support as shown in the picture. 


Orient the clip on its side to have the maximum amount strength.


To keep the supports from fusing with the part, position the supports away from the main body and add a horizontal offset of about .8mm from the part. 

Clean up


We used a flush diagonal cutter to clean up any stringing  around the port openings and around the standoffs inside the enclosure. 


Make sure the openings for the slide switch and USB ports are cleaned before mounting components. Use a hobby knife to help cut away stringing that could block components from mounting. 

This guide was first published on Oct 25, 2017. It was last updated on Jun 16, 2024.

This page (3D Printing) was last updated on May 13, 2024.

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