# Monster Matrix with WLED
## Overview
https://youtu.be/2T_BtFlZwVA
Make a statement for your home or office that pulses with furry, glowy goodness. It's pettable, programmable, and controllable with your phone or any internet-enabled device, including Alexa or a Philips Hue Bridge. The WLED software is easy to install and set up and comes with dozens of premade animations that can be customized for nearly unlimited color and pattern variations.
We're using a [Feather ESP32 V2](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400), which connects to your phone or computer via your WiFi network, so everyone in your home can take control and create their own presets and patterns.
The software for this project is easy, but there is a fair bit of tricky soldering involved. Hang in there -- you will love your new furry friend in the end.
### Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM
[Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400)
One of our star Feathers is the [Adafruit HUZZAH32 ESP32 Feather](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) - with the fabulous ESP32 WROOM module on there, it makes quick work of WiFi and Bluetooth® projects that take advantage of Espressifs most popular chipset. Recently we had...
Out of Stock
[Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400)
[Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/5400/guides)
### Adafruit DotStar Digital LED Strip - White 30 LED - Per Meter 5m
[Adafruit DotStar Digital LED Strip - White 30 LED - Per Meter 5m](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2238)
Move over NeoPixels, there's a new LED strip in town! These fancy new DotStar LED strips are a great upgrade for people who have loved and used NeoPixel strips for a few years but want something even better. DotStar LEDs use generic 2-wire SPI, so you can push data much faster than with...
In Stock
[Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2238)
[Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2238/guides)
### Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Ribbon Cable - 4 Wires 1 Meter Long
[Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Ribbon Cable - 4 Wires 1 Meter Long](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3892)
For those who are fans of our silicone-covered wires, but are always looking to _up their wiring game_. We now have **Silicone Cover Ribbon cables!** These may look _a lot_ like
In Stock
[Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3892)
[Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/3892/guides)
### Part: USB Type A to Type C Cable
quantity: 1
Approx 1 meter / 3 ft long
[USB Type A to Type C Cable](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4474)
### Part: Stemma Connector
quantity: 1
STEMMA QT / Qwiic JST SH 4-pin Cable
[Stemma Connector](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4210)
### Part: Heat Shrink
quantity: 1
Heat Shrink Pack
[Heat Shrink](https://www.adafruit.com/product/344)
A power switch is optional since you can turn this on and off with your phone, but it's a nice feature to have. We have a USB-A power switch in the shop. If you prefer USB C, [here's the one I used from Amazon](https://a.co/d/6erNTG5).
### Part: USB Switch
quantity: 1
USB Cable with Switch
[USB Switch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1620)
## Additional Materials
- White or light-colored fun fur -- you can find this at most fabric stores or [online](https://www.fashionfabricla.com/products/white-luxury-long-pile-shaggy-faux-fur-fabric) for around $25/yard.
- A piece of foam core for backing -- find this at the craft store
- Clear packing tape
- 1/2" Heat shrink
- A picture frame that's around 2" deep, or some scrap wood to make your own
- A USB cable for power
- Tools: Soldering iron & accessories, hot glue gun, heat gun, staple gun
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## WLED Software
## Board Choices
WLED runs on several different boards in Adafruit's collection. There are different benefits to each, but the installation process is largely the same. This page contains instructions for multiple boards -- be sure to use the pinouts and installation instructions for the one you're using,
**Sparkle Motion**
This is our flagship ESP32 board, designed with WLED and Xlights in mind. It has 4 outputs and is set up to drive either 5v, 12v or 24v pixels. It's a workhorse of a board and for larger projects it's the clear winner. It has an onboard microphone for instant sound-reactive support, and an IR sensor built in, to make it easy to control your project with an infrared remote. It also has a couple stemma ports so you can add your own sensors or peripherals.
**Sparkle Motion Mini**
The Sparkle Motion Mini is a smaller version of the Sparkle Motion board. It has two LED outputs, a microphone, and two stemma ports that make it easy to add an IR sensor or other peripherals. It's got an onboard NeoPixel and a small footprint, making it perfect for wearables or smaller projects. It will power a whole lot of pixels through the onboard USB port: it's safe to draw up to 4A through this port, giving you plenty of power for most wearable projects.
Info: For Sparkle Motion Mini use at least the 0.15.1 release of WLED.
**QT Py Pico ESP32**
The [QT Py Pico](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5395) is small and affordable, so usually my go-to for smaller costumes or wearables. It also has a range of BFF add-on boards that add functionality. [Here's a guide with more QT Py info](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-qt-py-esp32-pico/overview). The QT Py will drive up to around 30 pixels through the onboard USB port, so if you have more LEDs than that you may want to consider the Sparkle Motion Mini instead, or you can power the board through the +5v pin.
Note: WLED works on the QT Py Pico but NOT on the S2 or S3 versions, at the time of writing.
**Feather Huzzah ESP32 **
The [Feather Huzzah ESP32](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) the top of the line. It's a great choice for projects where you want to add sensors, interaction, or drive a whole lot of LEDs. It's the most reliable as well -- I've run these for two months straight with no power cycling and they just keep on truckin. Adafruit has a very wide selection of Feather Wing boards that connect to the Feather microcontroller line. The sky is the limit with these boards.
It also comes in a version with a high-powered WiFi range extender! If you're trying to sync multiple instances across distance, check this one out. [Feather Huzzah ESP32 V2 w.FL Antenna](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5438)
**Feather Huzzah ESP8266**
The [Feather Huzzah ESP8266](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821) will run WLED as well, but won't drive as many pixels: the ESP32 limit on WLED is around 1000 pixels per input, but the ESP8266 tops out at around 500. It's about $5 cheaper though, so for smaller projects it's a great way to save a little money and still have access to all the Featherwing options in the Adafruit store.
## Driver Update
Some versions of our controllers have a new serial chip which needs a driver installed before we can install WLED. Head over to our [How to Install Drivers for WCH USB to Serial Chips](https://learn.adafruit.com/how-to-install-drivers-for-wch-usb-to-serial-chips) tutorial, and download and install the new driver.
If you have an older QT Py with CP2102 USB-to-Serial bridge, [use SiLabs’ driver instead](https://www.silabs.com/developers/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers?tab=downloads).
## Install WLED
These next steps require a **_Web Serial_-compatible browser**. As of this writing, that means **Google Chrome** , **Microsoft Edge** or **Opera** “desktop” browsers. Other browsers (Safari, Firefox, Explorer and _anything_ mobile) won’t work.
Visit [https://install.wled.me/](https://install.wled.me/)
Plug your microcontroller into your computer with a known good USB cable. Click "Install" and select the port for your board.
Depending on the USB-to-serial bridge chip on the board, you might see one _or two_ serial ports. On Mac, for instance, there might be both “/dev/cu.usbmodem[number]” _and_ “/dev/cu.wchusbserial[number]”. Use the “ **wchusbserial** ” one.
After successful installation, enter your WiFi network name and password when prompted. This must be a **2.4 GHz** WiFi network; ESP32 does not support 5 GHz networks. If it can’t connect, then as a fallback WLED will create its own 2.4 GHz WiFi access point.
Danger: Sometimes the "Connect to Wi-Fi" prompt doesn't show up. Don't panic, just see the step below on connecting your computer or mobile device to the WLED-AP access point created on the microcontroller itself!
If you don't see the "Connect to Wi-Fi" prompt, you'll need to set up your WiFi network using AP (access point) mode. Open up your WiFi settings and look for a WiFi network called `WLED-AP`. (Note, this access point can take up to 30 seconds to appear sometimes.) Connect to this network using the default password `wled1234`. The WLED interface will pop up in its own captive browser window.
From here, go into **Config/Wifi Settings** and enter your WiFi credentials for the access point you normally use near the top.
Give your project a name in the mDNS field a little further down the page. Now you can type in "projectname.local" (where "projectname" is your mDNS name) into any web browser on the same wifi network to access your microcontroller.
You can also scan the QR code below to open access point mode.
For more help and troubleshooting tips visit the [Getting Started page on the WLED knowledge base.](https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/)
## Setup & Preferences
### WiFi Setup
Head to the **WiFi Setup** screen under Config and create a good URL so you can control your project from any web-enabled device. Call it something you'll remember, that's easy to type into any web browser on your WiFi network in order to connect to your project.
In Safari or Chrome on your phone or computer, type in this web address to access the WLED interface: [http://projectname.local](http://projectname.local) (where "projectname" is whatever you put into this field).
Check out the Additional Settings page for more info on accessing your project. WLED has an "access point mode" that doesn't require a WiFi network for when you're out on the go. It's also helpful to download one of the WLED apps to help manage and organize your projects.
### LED Preferences
Next, head to the **LED Preferences** tab under the Config menu.
Scroll down to **Hardware Setup**. Put your total number of LEDs into the "Length" field, and change GPIO to the pin number associated with the pin you soldered to. Check the pinout diagram for the board you're using (it's the number in yellow).
- [Sparkle Motion Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion)
- [Sparkle Motion Mini Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion-mini/overview)
- [QT Py Pico Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/112309)
- [Feather Huzzah ESP8266 Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/46249)
- [Feather Huzzah ESP32 Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah32-esp32-feather/pinouts)
## Use It
Now you can use any computer or handheld device to control your LEDs.
Make sure your device is on the same WiFi network as your board. Navigate to your custom URL (projectname.local/ ) in a web browser. You'll see a color picker above a whole bunch of color palette choices.
Choose a color, choose an effect, and watch your lights animate and glow!
Save your favorite combinations as presets, create playlists, control the speed and intensity of the animations, and lots more. This web app is incredibly intuitive and easy to use.
Head over to the WLED wiki at [https://kno.wled.ge/](https://kno.wled.ge/) to delve into all the particulars.
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## WLED Additional Settings
### Brightness Limiter
Find this on the LED Settings screen.
WLED automatically limits the brightness of your project so your power supply doesn't get over-taxed. The default amperage is 850mA, which is a little low for most power supplies.
For some projects, especially battery-powered projects, having the limiter turned on is a good idea. But if you're not getting the brightness you expect, try adjusting this number to match the amperage of your power supply or battery pack.
### Access Point (AP) Mode
While you're home, it's easy to control your project over your local WiFi network. But when you're out at a festival you probably don't have WiFi access. It's still possible to connect to your project and control it using WLED's Access Point Mode.
Turn your project on and give it a minute or two to start broadcasting. Look in your WiFi networks and find **WLED-AP** - this is a mini WiFi network being broadcast by the microcontroller. Connect to it - the default password is "wled123". An instance of WLED will automatically pop up and you can control your project from anywhere.
If you're putting your lights up in public, it's a good idea to change the AP Mode default password so strangers can't log in and control your lights. This could be a security risk.
AP Mode only broadcasts for a few minutes after you boot up the board so if you don't see the WLED-AP network try rebooting.
### WLED App
There are a couple different apps available to manage your WLED projects. Name and organize your projects, and find them quickly without having to type in a URL. Check the Apple or Android store for downloads.
My favorite is "WLED Native". It allows you to organize multiple instances and easily switch between devices without having to remember any URLs.
### Backup Config & Presets
Under Config / Security & Updates you will find a place to back up your data. It's a good idea to back up your config file as soon as you're happy with the settings. Save it as a .json file on your computer. Now you can prototype and experiment to your heart's content, and if everything breaks, just re-upload this file. Or, if you're doing another build you can use this feature to copy all your settings from one board to another.
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## WLED 2d Matrix
## Matrix Setup
WLED has a handy 2d-matrix setup feature that will take care of the mapping for you on a rectangular matrix. Go back to Config and choose the **2D Configuration** tab.
Change the dropdown to read 2d Matrix, and additional options will appear. If you want to sync more than one panel, you can do it here.
Set up your layout numbers to match the number of rows and columns in your project. You can also change orientation here - my pixels start in the lower left corner and finish in the upper right.
## Matrix Effects
WLED has a hefty number of matrix effects that appear in the list when you've got your 2d matrix set up. Click the little square in the "filters" popup to see only the 2d matrix effects. Many of them can be customized with speed and intensity sliders, or different color palettes. Go wild!
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## Wiring Diagram
We'll use the Feather's onboard STEMMA QT port to connect the LEDs and the Ground wire. The red wire will connect to the USB pin. Do not use the red STEMMA wire to connect to the LED strips -- it's rated at 3.3v and the power coming in from our USB cable is 5v. Instead, connect the red wire to the USB pin on the Feather.
Since we have a lot of lights, it's not a good idea to pull power through the USB port on the Feather -- too much current could damage the board. This setup brings power to the DotStar strips first, then feeds it out to the Feather from there.
- **DotStar VCC** --\> **Feather USB**
- **DotStar CL** --\> **STEMMA Yellow**
- **DotStar DATA** --\> **STEMMA Blue**
- **DotStar G** --\> **STEMMA Black**
Dotstar strips are connected in a serpentine array, and power and ground are connected at both ends.
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## Electronics Assembly
### Stemma Adapter
First, you'll need to make an adapter so you can plug the LED strip into the Feather using the STEMMA QT port.
Cut the 4-pin male connector off the **OUT** end of your LED strip. If yours doesn't have one, [we have them in the shop](https://www.adafruit.com/product/578) but they aren't so handily color-coded.
Trim the red wire on your STEMMA QT connector so it's out of your way. This wire carries a 3.3v current and will damage the Feather if you connect it to the 5v DotStar strips.
Strip 1/4" of shielding off the other 3 wires of your STEMMA QT connector and your 4-pin male connector. Match up the colors and solder the wires together: Yellow to yellow, green to blue, and black to black.
Solder the remaining red wire on the JST connector to the USB pin on the Feather.
### Power Switch
Cut the male end off your power switch tail and strip the shielding back by about 1/2". Inside, you'll find 4 wires: two data wires, a power, and ground. They should be color-coded: the power wires are red and black and the data wires are colored.
We're going to ignore the data wires since this cable is used for powering our project.
Extend the power wires by splicing on a few inches of red and black wire to the little red and black wires on the switch.
Cover the connection with a big piece of heat shrink.
Solder the red and black power wires at the beginning of your DotStar strip to the power wires on the switch, matching red and black.
Plug the JST connector into your JST/stemma adapter.
We have safely powered our project without pulling all the power we need for the DotStars through the Feather.
Later on in the project, I ended up cutting and re-attaching these power and ground wires so they pass through a hole drilled in the frame. At that time, I also added a second power and ground wire to the far end of the LED matrix to "inject" power at both ends and avoid having the strip dim from the voltage drop that happens when the power flows down a long strip of LEDs. Check the wiring diagram page to see the final wiring layout. For now, you just need a solid power connection to the IN end so you can test each strip as you go.
Plug a USB cable into the other end of your switch and into power. Your light strip should come on in yellow. Did it? Hooray! Time to wire up the rest of the strips.
If it didn't come on, see below for some troubleshooting tips. You really want to get this working before moving forward, since testing is essential for the next portion.
## Troubleshooting
_If your lights didn't come on, here are a few things to try:_
1. Reseat the STEMMA QT connector and the JST connector and make sure they're tight.
2. Flip your on/off switch. Was it just turned off?
3. Check to be sure you've connected to the IN end of the strip. Look for little arrows pointing in the direction of data flow and make sure the arrows are pointing AWAY from the connection you made.
4. Head back to WLED and check your pinout configuration under LED Preferences. Be sure the settings here match the screenshot on that page. It's easy to get the numbers crossed.
5. If you're getting lights but strange behavior (odd colors or patterns), be sure WLED is configured for APA102 lights -- it defaults to WS2812 (NeoPixels) but we're using DotStars here.
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## LED Strip Setup
Decide what size you want to make your matrix. Mine is 21x14: 21 pixels wide and 14 strips high. I like the 3:2 ratio; it's pleasing to my eye, and I think this is a great size for wall art. It's big enough to show some good detail without being too demanding. My finished piece is just over 30"x20" including the frame.
This setup used 10m of pixels just about perfectly. The total came to 294 pixels, which can be comfortably powered with a USB 2A/5V power supply and gave me a little bit of margin for error with cutting.
Cut your strips to length and lay them out on a piece of foam board or poster board. Put LED 0 (with the connector) at the bottom left. Then, lay out the strips in a zig-zag, or serpentine pattern, with the data flow switching directions with every other strip.
To get a perfect grid, I used a strip of LEDs and laid them perpendicularly across the strips, matching up the pixels. This made it easy to get the spacing as even as possible.
Once you're happy with the layout, use clear packing tape to fix the strips to the foam core. Leave about an inch of LED strip at each end un-taped.
Cut the silicone sleeve of each of the strips at both ends in order to expose the copper pads. Give yourself plenty of room to get your soldering iron in there.
Use a hot soldering iron and some solder to tin all the pads on all the strips at both ends. Be sure there's a nice blob of solder on there, but not so much that you're in danger of bridging the pads together.
Grab your silicone stranded ribbon cable wire. Strip off one of the 4 wires so the cable is now made of just 3 wires. Cut a 3" section of ribbon cable and strip around 1/8" of shielding off each wire at both ends. You want just enough wire to fit on the solder pads you tinned. Getting the exposed wire to match neatly with the pads will save you a lot of heartache while soldering the strips together.
Use your soldering iron to tin all 6 wire ends neatly, trim them to be tidy, then repeat. You'll need one fewer ribbon cable than your number of strips (so I needed 13, with 14 strips).
Plug your microcontroller in and turn the switch to "on". Your first strip should light up. Turn the switch back to "off" before proceeding -- you NEVER want to solder strips while the circuit is live. The chances of bridging the pins while soldering is very high, and that's a great way to fry your microcontroller.
Slip a couple pieces of 1/2" heat shrink onto your first connector wire and solder the OUT end of your first strip to the IN end of your second strip, which should be conveniently located next-door. Be sure to get the wires in the correct order: + goes to +, G goes to G, and OUT goes to IN for the clock and data wires.
Turn the switch back on and test this strip before proceeding. Then turn it off again, head to the other end, and solder the next connection. Continue zig-zagging back and forth and be sure each strip lights up as you go.
Slide the heat shrink into place over each of your strips, covering the exposed pads but not blocking the first light.
The lights may have slid around inside the silicone sleeves as you were soldering, so use a ruler to line them up again. Once you're sure all the connections are good and the alignment is right, seal the ends by squirting a little hot glue inside the heat shrink, then shrinking the heat shrink in place with a heat gun.
Be a bit careful here -- the packing tape and foam core are both subject to melting and/or catching fire if you use too much heat gun on them! Use a low setting and take your time.
# Monster Matrix with WLED
## Frame Assembly
The fun fur we're using makes a great diffuser, but if it's laid directly on the pixels you will still see individual pixels in a grid through the fur. I wanted a more diffused look, with bands of color instead of discernible pixels. The cheapest and easiest way to add more diffusion is with open space. Holding the fur an inch or two above the pixels creates an unbeatable layer of diffusion.
Check out our [NeoPixel Diffusion](https://learn.adafruit.com/make-it-glow-neopixel-and-led-diffusion-tips-tricks/overview) guide for more ideas.
To achieve this, I stretched the fun fur across a 2" deep frame that we made in our garage wood shop. The frame is fully covered by the fur, so we used ugly scrap wood for the edges and repurposed a sheet of 1/4" birch plywood for the backing.
If you don't have your own wood shop, it's not hard to find deep-set picture frames at thrift stores. My local Goodwill has an incredible selection of pictures with frames for around $5, and they already come with hanging hardware.
The frame is made from 2" x 1" pieces of scrap wood, screwed into a box. We got a little fancy and ran them through the table saw at about 1/4" depth, to make a slot for the plywood backing.
The foam core is mounted inside the frame using a staple gun.
We used a palm router to rout out a hole for the switch, so that it sits flush with the outer edge of the frame. It will be covered by the fun fur, but still accessible by feel.
There is a hole drilled all the way through on one side, to feed the power cables through.
We routed another hole in the back of the frame where the Feather is going to be mounted. This wiring layout doesn't allow reprogramming through the USB power cable, so this hole will allow access to the Feather's USB port for reprogramming without taking the whole piece apart.
Some final wiring is needed to get the power switch on the outside of the frame. Cut the two power wires coming from the switch, thread them through the hole, then reconnect them.
If your pixels seem a bit dim at the top of the matrix, this is a good time to splice in another red and black wire and connect it to the far end of your strip (mine's in the upper left corner). Power flows both directions through these strips, while data has to go from **IN** to **OUT**. Connecting power and ground at both ends of the strip will give you a more even power distribution and correct for any dimness caused by voltage drop across a long run of LEDs.
Here's the switch nestled into its hole. I finished by gluing the Feather board against the frame with hot glue, making sure the USB port is accessible through the hole in the back of the frame, then used a few dabs of hot glue to manage the wires so they don't cast any shadows on the fur.
The USB power cable plugs into the switch at the corner, which is handy because now I can hang the piece either horizontally or vertically and the cable will drop from the corner instead of the side.
When laying out your fun fur, give some thought to the orientation. This stuff is directional -- there's one way you can smooth it down so it looks neat and tidy. I've found it looks best when it's hung so that it "pets" downward.
Cut the fun fur from the back side with a sharp utility knife to minimize fuzz bunnies. Make it a few inches larger than your frame on all sides. Stretch it tightly across the frame and secure it with a staple gun.
Be careful to ONLY staple around the wooden frame and NOT through the plywood backing. If a staple hits one of your strips it could damage it or short it out, which would be very sad and frustrating at this point in the project. Stick to the edge, all you staple fiends.
Cut a little slit for the USB cable. It can also be helpful to grade out the corners a bit if they seem too bulky.
There's an art to hiding the power cords for light-up art pieces.
- Use a white USB cable
- Use a [wire cover](https://a.co/d/3PI3jG6) system
- If the cord really bugs you, [this LED Floor guide](https://learn.adafruit.com/neopixel-and-glass-pebble-floor?view=all#installation) shows you how to poke a hole in the wall and drop the cable down inside, then fish it out of a second hole near the outlet with a coat hanger.
## Featured Products
### Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM
[Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400)
One of our star Feathers is the [Adafruit HUZZAH32 ESP32 Feather](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) - with the fabulous ESP32 WROOM module on there, it makes quick work of WiFi and Bluetooth® projects that take advantage of Espressifs most popular chipset. Recently we had...
Out of Stock
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[Adafruit DotStar Digital LED Strip - White 30 LED - Per Meter 5m](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2238)
Move over NeoPixels, there's a new LED strip in town! These fancy new DotStar LED strips are a great upgrade for people who have loved and used NeoPixel strips for a few years but want something even better. DotStar LEDs use generic 2-wire SPI, so you can push data much faster than with...
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### Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Ribbon Cable - 4 Wires 1 Meter Long
[Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Ribbon Cable - 4 Wires 1 Meter Long](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3892)
For those who are fans of our silicone-covered wires, but are always looking to _up their wiring game_. We now have **Silicone Cover Ribbon cables!** These may look _a lot_ like
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### STEMMA QT / Qwiic JST SH 4-pin Cable - 100mm Long
[STEMMA QT / Qwiic JST SH 4-pin Cable - 100mm Long](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4210)
This 4-wire cable is a little over 100mm / 4" long and fitted with JST-SH female 4-pin connectors on both ends. Compared with the chunkier JST-PH these are 1mm pitch instead of 2mm, but still have a nice latching feel, while being easy to insert and remove.
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### USB Cable with Switch
[USB Cable with Switch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1620)
Add a power switch to any USB-powered project simply by plugging this between the USB power port and the USB cable. This is the most useful thing you never knew you needed! You'll want to pick up a bunch for your electronic projects.
Comes with a USB A socket on one end and a...
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### Heat Shrink Pack
[Heat Shrink Pack](https://www.adafruit.com/product/344)
Heat shrink is the duct tape of electronics, it keeps your stuff all safe and kept together. Especially when wiring and soldering, use heat shrink to add mechanical strength to cables. We use this stuff all the time and having a zip-lock bag of all the possible sizes is super...
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### USB Type A to Type C Cable - approx 1 meter / 3 ft long
[USB Type A to Type C Cable - approx 1 meter / 3 ft long](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4474)
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USB C is the latest industry-standard connector for...
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[Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4474/guides)
## Related Guides
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- [Garden Path Lights with WLED and a Sunset Timer](https://learn.adafruit.com/garden-path-lights-with-sunset-timer.md)