Now we get to build the table! This part is fun, sort of like building a kit, except you'll need to do a little bit of cutting to create the proper lengths of aluminum extrusion.
Cutlist
First, take one of the lengths of aluminum extrusion and measure, mark, and cut the two frame sides from it, each at 300mm.
- Clamp the work into your miter box or fence of a miter saw
- You can use a lubricant to keep the blade and work cool
- Carefully cut the piece
- File off any rough edges if needed
Next, cut the frame front and rear lengths to 197mm, also from a single 610mm length of stock.
This will leave enough remaining material to cut one of the rear legs, as well, which is 127mm, however, this one will have an 3 degree angled cut for the foot. So, set your miter angle to 3 degrees with the blade cutting the longest leg of the angle to 127mm.
Here we can see the angled cut next to a straight cut.
You can place the plastic end caps on the angled feet as well as the rear frame lengths.
Make the remaining cuts in the third piece of stock to create the other 127mm rear leg and both of the 102mm front legs. All legs will have the 3 degree cut to one end.
Front Rail and Plunger Button
- The plunger button will connect to the front rail using two double corner brace supports.
- Screw in two T-nuts on each bracket as shown here.
- Loosely attach them to the front rail, then fit them tightly to the plunger button, with the button's plastic nut helping hold it in place.
- Tighten down all four screws.
Side Flipper Buttons
- Screw in two L-plates to the left rail making space for the left flipper button (Note the two extra screws in the forward plate which will be used to connect the front left leg later)
- Overhang the front-most plate by 20mm, enough to over the front rail later
- Hold the plates firmly against the button's catch tabs and then tighten the screws
- Repeat for the right side flipper button
Front Rail Connection to Side Rails
- Prepare two more L-plates with screws and T-nuts
- Connect the front rail to the right rail as shown
- Make sure everything is nice and square, then connect the front rail to the left rail as shown
Front Leg Attachment
- The front legs slide into the the two T-nuts that were already prepped on the L-plates
- Make sure the foot angles are correct -- the table will have a forward lean to it
- Set the legs up square to the undersides of the side rails, then screw down the screws
- Repeat for both sides
Rear Leg Attachment
- Prep two double corner brace supports, each with four screws and T-nuts
- Attach one of the brackets to the underside of the right side rail as shown, leaving 20mm of space for the leg to sit flush
- Again, being mindful of the foot angle that will allow for the table to lean properly, connect the right rear leg
- Tighten the screws, making sure everything's square
- Repeat these steps for the other rear leg
Rear Frame Supports
- Use two more L-plates to form supports that will hold the rear frame rail
- This will allow for an easier time inserting and removing the iPad
- Note the position of the single screw and T-nut inserted from the underside of each plate, this will be used to connect the rear frame rail later (it does not need to be inserted just yet, and doesn't appear in all photos)
Gemma M0 Mount
- Connect the Gemma M0 as shown to the plastic hinge using M2.5 nylon screws and standoffs or nuts
- The best orientation for screw clearance is to have the Gemma M0 on the side of the plastic hinge with the smaller hole diameter, not the counter-sink side
- Attach the plastic hinge/mount to the top rail with two screws and T-nuts
Insert iPad and Close it Up
- Slide the iPad into the frame, keeping the Lighting port at the top/rear of the table
- Use two screws and T-nuts from the underside of the L-plates to attach the rear rail/Gemma M0 mount
You're just about ready to play!
Page last edited September 01, 2017
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