Let’s start with the printing first. You can work on the electronics and software while the printer runs the job.

If doing your own custom build — for example, if using different components — skip ahead to the next page. The 3D-printed parts are specifically designed around the Pro Trinket board and components listed previously.

Customize The Design

The parts where modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360, so it's easy to modify the design. The design is public and available to download in different formats. If you'd like to use a different CAD software package, you are free to import the files and remix them.

Slicer Settings

To slice the parts, we used Simplify3D. We recommend using the settings below or use them as reference. We 3D printed the part on a BCN3D Sigma with a 6.mm nozzle. If you have Simplify3D, you can download our profiles below.




245c extruder
65c bed
50mm/s print speed
120mm/s travel speed
0.6mm Nozzle
.3mm layer height
.72mm Extrusion width

To speed up printing we used a .6mm nozzle.

Using a large nozzle cuts printing down to 20 mins for the box and 15 mins for the lid.

Faceplate for Othermill Pro


2.2mm thick
4in x 4in stock
1/32" Flat End Mill
16400 RPM Spindle
1500 Feed Rate
381 Plung Rate
0.08mm Max Depth

Filament Materials

We recommend using PLA material to reduce wrapping while 3D printing. The parts can be printed in different types of filament, such as ABS, PET or Nylon.

PLA filament is easiest to work with. If printing in ABS instead, you might need to scale the model up slightly (about 2%) to allow for shrinkage.

Threads and screws

We used M2 x .4 x 4mm screws for the Trinket Pro, RTC and display boards.

Use a screw (or a tapping tool, if you have one) to create the threads for each standoff before mounting the boards. Make sure to apply a bit of pressure and to keep the screw straight while turining. 

This guide was first published on Aug 01, 2016. It was last updated on Jul 08, 2016.

This page (3D Printing) was last updated on Jul 08, 2016.

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