Innards
Unscrew all of the assemblies and remove them from the case -- this will make it easier to solder the wiring to the PermaProto boards, and allow you to paint the case should you so choose.
Matrix Wiring
All of the keys and buttons are part of a 8x6 matrix decoded by the epoxied on-board microcontroller. We'll desolder some of the existing ribbon wires and solder our own from the keyboard to a PermaProto breadboard. This way, we can decode the matrix with the Kee Boar KB2040 running CircuitPython.
Desolder all of the ribbon cables running to the Meowsic PCB.
Next, desolder two of the three sets of ribbon cable from the keyboard PCB as shown in the photo.
New Ribbons
Solder silicone ribbon cables from the two keyboard matrix positions as shown. These will connect the keyboard (an satellite button pads) to the KB2040 as shown in the Fritzing diagram.
Solder a third ribbon wire to the original PCB as shown in order to use the four arrow buttons.
Circuit
Build the circuit shown in the Fritzing diagram and schematic above onto a PermaProto.
The LED is built into the keyboard's record button but you'll add a 10KΩ resistor to one leg.
You'll want to extend the TRS-A jack to the case with a panel-mount version.
You may omit the TRS-A midi plug if you want to just use USB MIDI.
You'll wire the common and right contacts of the slide switch to GND and Enable so it can be repurposed as a reset button.
Ice Cream Cone Modulation
The ice cream cone houses a microphone, but we'll repurpose that as a gesture controller for MIDI CC such as filter depth by inserting an accelerometer.
Disassemble the cone mechanism from the base.
Cut open the cone carefully (very carefully) with a thin blade along the glued seams.
Use a four cable conductor, such as an RJ-14 phone cable, to create an extended STEMMA QT cable (or simply solder each end to the accelerometer board and PermaProto to keep it simple).
Prime the Case and Parts
Since the keyboard is already pulled apart, this is a great time to give the Cyber Cat keyboard a new paint job!
Use a few coats of primer, allowing proper drying time between coats.
Paint
Then, paint each part to suit your taste. Use at least 3-5 coats with proper drying time between coats, and then use a matte or gloss sealant for surface protection.
Cone Assembly
Screw the IMU board into the scoop's existing mounting post as shown.
Knot the cable around a cone mounting post for strain relief, feed the end through the cone holder and plug the STEMMA QT connector end into the KB2040.
Re-assemble the retraction mechanism if you like (it fills in some case gaps, but we won't be using it. Instead, knot the cable on a mounting post on the base so a short length of slack will allow the cone to be used and then placed back in its holder.
Close up the cone using a few dabs of CA glue.
Assembly
Place all of the buttons back in their holders.
Starting with the keybed and satellite button boards, screw in each part to re-assemble.
Carefully drill holes for the panel mount USB connector and TRS MIDI jack, then attach them.
Finally, press the back panel into place and re-fasten the screws.
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