Solder a power, ground, and data IN wire to your NeoPixel. Make the wires about 6-8" long.

Trim the female jumper connectors off the end of your magnetic switch and off one end of the black and red jumper cables that came with the touch screen. They're a little too tall for this build so we'll solder these wires to the Pi instead.

Add a 1/4" piece of heat shrink to each of your wires.

Here's a great pinout diagram for the Raspberry Pi 4. Solder your switch wires to G and GPIO 17: the 5th and 6th pin on the inside row of pins.

Solder your NeoPixel wires to the outside row of pins as shown: 

• 5v (red) to 5v power (2nd pin on the Pi)
• Data IN (white) to GPIO 18 (6th pin on the Pi)
• G (black) to G (7th pin on the Pi)

Solder the red and black jumper cables for the touch screen to 5v Power (red), the first pin on the Pi on the outside row, and G (black) to the 3rd pin on the Pi also on the outside row.

Cover each connection with heat shrink so there's no chance they'll short with each other.

Plug your USB microphone into one of the USB ports on the Pi.

Plug your USB microphone into one of the USB ports on the Pi. Plug the ribbon cable in as shown with the silver side facing in to the Pi. 

This connector is tricky... pull upwards gently on the plastic corners to release and push them back toward the Pi to tighten.

Plug the other end of the cable into your touch screen as shown. Plug the jumper cables into 5v (red) and G (black).

Gently turn the Pi upside-down and screw it to the mounting holes on the back of the touch screen. This is not the way it's designed to be mounted, so you'll need to carefully manage the wires. I could only get three screws to bite, but that should be plenty for this project.