Give a little thought to the first and last pages that you cut. I left the portrait of Sir Thomas Moore intact, so that he can enjoy the stories along with the reader. 

We will attach one page to the screen after cutting a window in it, so figure out which pages you want to keep and start cutting below that. I also didn't cut all the way to the back of the book - my book was thick enough that I could keep some pages.

I started by tracing the touch screen onto a sheet of paper, which I could then use as a template to line up my cutout. Give yourself a little extra room so you can get the electronics in and out easily.

To stabilize the pages, I built a box out of some wood scraps and screwed it all together around the pages I wanted to cut. I put a screw right through the center as well -- we're cutting that part out so it's okay to put a hole in it.

Next I drilled a hole right in the corner so I could get my jig saw blade through. The corners are the hardest part with the saw, and I wanted them rounded, so using the drill made this easier. I could just cut straight from hole to hole and the drill holes made the corners rounded for me.

Next I cut all around the edges with a jig saw. If you don't have access to a jig saw, it's perfectly possible to cut the pages out a few at a time with a sharp knife and a lot of patience. The inside of the box won't show in the finished project so it doesn't need to be perfect.

To secure the pages together and keep them from tearing, I coated the outside and inside of the pages with mod podge. This dried perfectly clear and kept the book looking just like a book, but made the pages into a solid block.

I used my dremel to hollow out a divot in the cover for my rare earth magnet, and glued it securely in place with E6000. Then I carved out a hollow for my NeoPixel and a hollow for the reed switch, which I made sure to line up with the magnet. The magnet will activate the switch when the book is closed and cause the project to sleep.

I used a sharp utility knife to carve a hole for the panel mount USB cable. We'll use this for charging the battery. I cut another hole on the side of the book that's big enough to poke my finger in to activate the USB on/off switch. 

Your layout may vary. 

I glued some thick craft foam supports inside, and used them to securely wedge the on/off switch and the battery in place behind the holes. 

I glued the NeoPixel and reed switch in place, making sure they were flush with the top. I spent some time getting the foam inserts just right so there is room inside for all the cables and the touch screen sits as securely and flush as possible with the top of the cut pages.