Final Assembly

Install RGB LED Button

Insert the JST cables from the button through one of the holes in the clamp. Press the body of the button through the hole until it's flush. If needed, use a filing tool or hobby knife to open up the hole to loosen the tolerance.

Secure RGB LED Button

Insert the hex nut through the JST cable and fasten onto the thread of the button housing. Tightly fasten the hex nut to secure the button in place. Needle nose pliers can help assist in grasping the hex nut. The clamp is symmetrical so the buttons can be positioned in either direction. 

Install Second Button

Repeat the same process to install the second push button. Most 16mm panel mounted buttons should fit within the clamp. Its about 40mm diameter internal, so as long as the length of the button does not exceed it should fit. Wiring can be adjusted and repositioned for more  clearance.

Install Speaker to Pommel

Place the 40mm speaker into the pommel with the magnet driver facing up. The body of the speaker resides in the pommel with little wiggle room. It doesn't necessary "snap in". Instead, the battery will keep the speaker in place once installed.

Install Battery

Grab the power cell part and insert the 4400mAh lipo battery through the opening. The battery can only be inserted to one side (the one with the threads). The other side will prevent the battery from being inserted all the way through the part. The JST cable from the battery should be coming out through the top (the side with no threads).

Install Speaker Wiring

The molex pico connector is threaded through a cutout on the inside of the powercell. Pass the cable through and pull through the top of the powercell part. There's two available cutouts to allow the cable to pass through.

Powercell and Pommel

The orientation of the battery matters and needs to be installed with the JST cable facing the non-threaded opening. Be sure the side of the powercell with threads are close to the pommel. These two will be joined by twisting them together. Threads!

Install Pommel to Powercell

Place the pommel over the end of the powercell with the threading and begin to screw it on. Fasten the pommel until it's fully tightened. Be cautious of the wiring as it could be damaged by excessive twisting.

Install PCB mount 

Grab the PCB assembly and begin to insert it through the barrel. The cables should go through first. Slowly work the PCB assembly into the barrel by carefully pressing it trough. It the tolerances are too tight, use a filing tool to sand the edges.

Barrel USB Wires

The micro USB breakout is accessible from the top of the barrel. Use this port to program the Adafruit Feather, change sounds, code, etc. Pull the wires through the bottom opening of the barrel. The bottom of the barrel will not allow the PCB assembly to pass all the way through.

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3d_printing_barrel-wires.jpg

Install Clamp to Powercell

Grab the clamp and orient it with the Powercell. Insert the speaker and battery cables up through the clamp. Bring them together and press the clamp over the powercell. Line up the groves and twist to lock them together. 

Connect Cables

Grab the JST connectors from the wiring assembly and check everything is accounted for. Bring the barrel close and plug in the JST connectors. Take a moment to thoroughly inspect the wiring and ensure the connections and polarities are matching.

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3d_printing_clamp-barrel-wires.jpg

3d_printing_clamp-barrel-connect.jpg

Connect Pico

Pull the pico connector from the speaker through the opening in barrel. Rotate the PCB assembly to better access the speaker port on the Prop-Maker FeatherWing. Plug in the connector to the speaker port.

Install Clamp to Barrel

Use your thumb to pull apart the clamp and insert the barrel. Twist the parts until they the notches line up and lock into place. Make sure not to dislodge the clamp from the powercell. 

Connect Battery to Feather

Pull the JST cable from the battery through the opening in the barrel and connect it to the battery port on the Adafruit Feather. You may need to adjust the PCB retainer by turning it to one side to better access the port. If the PCB retainer gets stuck, you can use a file tool to loosen the tolerances by sanding the edges.

3d_printing_battery-jst-connect.jpg

3d_printing_installed-hilt.jpg

Secure Clamp

Insert a M3 x 16mm long machine screw through the hole in tab of the clap. Press it all the way trough and insert a nylon lock nut onto the thread of the screw. Use a screwdriver and pliers to securely fasten together.

Connect NeoPixel Blade

Grab the 3-pin JST cable from the blade and insert it it into the NeoPixel port on the Prop-Maker FeatherWing. The PCB retainer may need to be adjusted to better access the JST port. Wrap the wiring inside of the barrel and begin to twist the emitter onto the barrel. The screw threads mate together and are fastened tightly.

3d_printing_hilt-blade-connect.jpg

3d_printing_hilt-blade-wire.jpg

Threaded Emitter

The Emitter is designed to be removed by unscrewing it from the barrel. The micro USB port is accessible with the emitter removed for recharging the battery or programming the Adafruit Feather.

Test, tweak and Saber!

Give your saber a test by winging it around (careful not to knock anything over!). The durability of your saber lies in your construction. Take the time to true up any edges, shorten or adjust wires and cables. 

This guide was first published on Oct 31, 2018. It was last updated on Oct 31, 2018. This page (Final Assembly) was last updated on Sep 18, 2019.