Before we solder all of the wires to the ItsyBitsy board, it's a good idea double check all of our wiring. Planning ahead allows you to catch any mistakes we might encounter. Take this opportunity to add more heat shrink!

Wire Perma-Proto

I suggest starting with getting all of the power and ground connections soldered to the piece of perma-proto PCB. I secured it to panavise to keep it in place while soldering. The board can get a bit cluttered so take your time and orient the PCB so your hands don't get in the way while soldering. You'll want to double check your work and ensure the connections are in the right places. The perma-proto PCB has high quality through-holes so it's ok if you need to rework any of the pins.




Wire ItsyBitsy

Now it's time to wire up the ItsyBitsy board. I started with the most difficult connections being the Data Input for the NeoPixel strips. Because these connections have a thicker 26AWG wires, it's hard to share a single pin. I used a pair of flush snips to thin out the wires so that I could insert them both into pin #10. You'll want to double check your work to ensure both connections are solid. Next, we can solder the button to Pin #9 and the vibration sensor to Pin #7.




Final Wiring

The last wiring we need to do is the ground and voltage wires from the Perma-Proto PCB. The black wire goes into the G labeled pin (it's ground) and the red wire goes to the USB pin (this is voltage from USB power like a battery or USB hub.). Once everything is wired, you'll want to double check your work, again making sure the connections are solid and in the right pins. The final circuit looks a bit cluttered so we can orient the wires so we can handle the board. This will make it more manageable once we fit everything into the 3D printed case. 




This guide was first published on Apr 11, 2018. It was last updated on Apr 09, 2024.

This page (ItsyBitsy M0) was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

Text editor powered by tinymce.