# LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Overview https://youtu.be/_wrw9c-9wPg Hold onto your hat, 'cause your threads are about to get a serious upgrade, man. We're talkin' LED lights for your furry coat, but not just any lights, my friends. We're talkin' lights that'll have you struttin' like a disco diva under the neon glow. First up, imagine your coat decked out with animated lights nestled snugly in that lush fun fur trim. Those lights will be dancin' and flickerin' like a kaleidoscope of colors, man. It's like your own personal light show, wherever you go. But hey, if you're feelin' like a real trailblazer, we got somethin' even groovier in store. Enter the custom-built LED matrix, baby. We're talkin' next-level stuff here. With LED mapping and WLED tech, your coat becomes a canvas for your wildest dreams. Patterns, animations, you name it. It's like wearin' a slice of the future right on your back, man. So grab your coat, and your LEDs, and let's hit the streets like a couple of cosmic cowboys, spreadin' good vibes and sparklin' lights wherever we roam. Are you ready to light up the night, daddy-o? Peace, love, and a whole lotta disco fever await!  ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/060/medium800/led_pixels_erin_furtrim.jpeg?1711739745) ## Scope of This Guide This guide will demonstrate two different methods of lighting up a coat: 1. **Fur Trim Lights** : String LED lights inside the ubiquitous furry trim that's found on so many Festival jackets. This is a fairly easy build that doesn't require a lot of sewing or coding skills. 2. **Light Matrix Panels** : Create a 3-panel LED matrix between the coat fabric and lining that runs 2d animations on the body of the coat. This is a more complicated build that requires some coat deconstruction and sewing and requires some detail-oriented number work to get the LED map created. The wiring is the same for both builds, and it's possible to do both in the same coat, though that makes the software setup pretty tricky. This guide uses the free, open-source [WLED software](https://install.wled.me). It's easy to install and use. Control the lights with your phone or computer over your WiFi network when you're at home, or via AP-MODE (access point mode) when you're out and about. WLED comes with loads of customizable animations for your lights.  ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/076/medium800/led_pixels_vest_fur_back.jpg?1711745638) ## Parts ### Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM [Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400) One of our star Feathers is the [Adafruit HUZZAH32 ESP32 Feather](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) - with the fabulous ESP32 WROOM module on there, it makes quick work of WiFi and Bluetooth® projects that take advantage of Espressifs most popular chipset. Recently we had... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/5400/guides) ![Top view of black rectangle-shaped microcontroller.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/5400-13.jpg) ### Adafruit NeoPixel Pebble / Seed LED Strand - 300 LEDs - 2" Pitch [Adafruit NeoPixel Pebble / Seed LED Strand - 300 LEDs - 2" Pitch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/6023) We have all sorts of LED strips for a wide range of needs. [_Chonky_](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3869) strips? We got those! [Strips with alligator...](https://www.adafruit.com/?q=neopixel%20alligator%20clips%20stripping%20wires) In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/6023) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/6023/guides) ![Pebble strand LED strips lit up yellow-pink and blue.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/6023-04.jpg) For my coat, I used 275 pixels at 0.5" pitch for the fur trim, and 154 pixels at 2" pitch for my vest.  Adafruit carries these in 2" or 4" pitch. There are a lot of sources for different spacings -- do a search for pebble or seed pixels to shop around. Make sure you're getting the ones rated for 5v. ## Powering ### Part: USB Battery Pack quantity: 1 USB Battery Pack for Raspberry Pi - 10000mAh - 2 x 5V outputs [USB Battery Pack](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1566) I got a large USB battery to power my coat. These come in a variety of sizes, weights, and inputs, and will charge your phone as well! The newest ones mostly use usb-c cables to charge, so I also found a [usb-c on/off switch](https://a.co/d/3RzQZu8) and got a [short usb-c](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4472) cable to connect them all up.  Make sure when you select your battery, switch, and cables that everything will match up and plug into each other. Pay attention to male/female ends also. If they don't quite all connect neatly up, [we sell adapters](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4175)! Here are a few other products that might be helpful with your build. ### Part: Alligator Clips quantity: 1 Large Alligator Clip Test Lead (set of 10) [Alligator Clips](https://www.adafruit.com/product/321) ### Part: JST Connectors quantity: 3 3-pin JST SM Plug + Receptacle Cable Set [JST Connectors](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1663) ### Part: USB Power Switch quantity: 1 USB Cable with Switch [USB Power Switch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1620) ### Part: Short USB Cable quantity: 1 USB-c to USB-a 6" cable [Short USB Cable](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4472) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Wiring Diagram ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/125/medium800/led_pixels_envested_wiring2_bb.png?1712070965) The NeoPixel strand's data in pin is connected to pin 13 on the Feather. One end of the USB power switch tail plugs into the Feather's USB port. Data and ground wires from the NeoPixel strip will get spliced into the USB cable's power and ground wires, and the other end of the USB power switch tail connects to the battery. The LED seed pixels we're using can be tricky to wire up. They aren't generally marked, though if you look closely you can sometimes see a copper wire spooled around the +5v wire. Data is usually (but not always) in the middle, and it's difficult to tell which is the IN end and which is OUT. So, don't assume this diagram is correct for your pixel strand. We'll go through testing on the Assembly page. # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## WLED Software ## Board Choices WLED runs on several different boards in Adafruit's collection. There are different benefits to each, but the installation process is largely the same. This page contains instructions for multiple boards -- be sure to use the pinouts and installation instructions for the one you're using, **Sparkle Motion** This is our flagship ESP32 board, designed with WLED and Xlights in mind. It has 4 outputs and is set up to drive either 5v, 12v or 24v pixels. It's a workhorse of a board and for larger projects it's the clear winner. It has an onboard microphone for instant sound-reactive support, and an IR sensor built in, to make it easy to control your project with an infrared remote. It also has a couple stemma ports so you can add your own sensors or peripherals. **Sparkle Motion Mini** The Sparkle Motion Mini is a smaller version of the Sparkle Motion board. It has two LED outputs, a microphone, and two stemma ports that make it easy to add an IR sensor or other peripherals. It's got an onboard NeoPixel and a small footprint, making it perfect for wearables or smaller projects. It will power a whole lot of pixels through the onboard USB port: it's safe to draw up to 4A through this port, giving you plenty of power for most wearable projects. Info: For Sparkle Motion Mini use at least the 0.15.1 release of WLED. **QT Py Pico ESP32** The [QT Py Pico](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5395) is small and affordable, so usually my go-to for smaller costumes or wearables. It also has a range of BFF add-on boards that add functionality. [Here's a guide with more QT Py info](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-qt-py-esp32-pico/overview). The QT Py will drive up to around 30 pixels through the onboard USB port, so if you have more LEDs than that you may want to consider the Sparkle Motion Mini instead, or you can power the board through the +5v pin. Note: WLED works on the QT Py Pico but NOT on the S2 or S3 versions, at the time of writing. **Feather Huzzah ESP32 ** The [Feather Huzzah ESP32](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) the top of the line. It's a great choice for projects where you want to add sensors, interaction, or drive a whole lot of LEDs. It's the most reliable as well -- I've run these for two months straight with no power cycling and they just keep on truckin. Adafruit has a very wide selection of Feather Wing boards that connect to the Feather microcontroller line. The sky is the limit with these boards. It also comes in a version with a high-powered WiFi range extender! If you're trying to sync multiple instances across distance, check this one out. [Feather Huzzah ESP32 V2 w.FL Antenna](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5438) **Feather Huzzah ESP8266** The [Feather Huzzah ESP8266](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821) will run WLED as well, but won't drive as many pixels: the ESP32 limit on WLED is around 1000 pixels per input, but the ESP8266 tops out at around 500. It's about $5 cheaper though, so for smaller projects it's a great way to save a little money and still have access to all the Featherwing options in the Adafruit store. ## Driver Update Some versions of our controllers have a new serial chip which needs a driver installed before we can install WLED. Head over to our [How to Install Drivers for WCH USB to Serial Chips](https://learn.adafruit.com/how-to-install-drivers-for-wch-usb-to-serial-chips) tutorial, and download and install the new driver. If you have an older QT Py with CP2102 USB-to-Serial bridge, [use SiLabs’ driver instead](https://www.silabs.com/developers/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers?tab=downloads).   ## Install WLED These next steps require a **_Web Serial_-compatible browser**. As of this writing, that means **Google Chrome** , **Microsoft Edge** or **Opera**  “desktop” browsers. Other browsers (Safari, Firefox, Explorer and _anything_ mobile) won’t work. Visit [https://install.wled.me/](https://install.wled.me/) Plug your microcontroller into your computer with a known good USB cable. Click "Install" and select the port for your board. Depending on the USB-to-serial bridge chip on the board, you might see one _or two_ serial ports. On Mac, for instance, there might be both “/dev/cu.usbmodem[number]” _and_ “/dev/cu.wchusbserial[number]”. Use the “ **wchusbserial** ” one. ![adafruit_products_Install_WLED.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/115/287/medium640/adafruit_products_Install_WLED.jpg?1663802069) After successful installation, enter your WiFi network name and password when prompted. This must be a **2.4 GHz** WiFi network; ESP32 does not support 5 GHz networks. If it can’t connect, then as a fallback WLED will create its own 2.4 GHz WiFi access point. ![led_strips_Install_WLED.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/601/medium640/led_strips_Install_WLED.jpg?1737574345) Danger: Sometimes the "Connect to Wi-Fi" prompt doesn't show up. Don't panic, just see the step below on connecting your computer or mobile device to the WLED-AP access point created on the microcontroller itself! If you don't see the "Connect to Wi-Fi" prompt, you'll need to set up your WiFi network using AP (access point) mode. Open up your WiFi settings and look for a WiFi network called `WLED-AP`. (Note, this access point can take up to 30 seconds to appear sometimes.) Connect to this network using the default password `wled1234`. The WLED interface will pop up in its own captive browser window. From here, go into **Config/Wifi Settings** and enter your WiFi credentials for the access point you normally use near the top. Give your project a name in the mDNS field a little further down the page. Now you can type in "projectname.local" (where "projectname" is your mDNS name) into any web browser on the same wifi network to access your microcontroller. You can also scan the QR code below to open access point mode.  For more help and troubleshooting tips visit the [Getting Started page on the WLED knowledge base.](https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/) ![led_strips_install_no_wifi.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/597/medium640/led_strips_install_no_wifi.jpg?1737574050) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/136/104/medium640/led_strips_Screenshot_2025-03-31_at_9.39.02%E2%80%AFAM.jpg?1743439611) ![led_strips_WLED_wifi_settings.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/598/medium640/led_strips_WLED_wifi_settings.jpg?1737574103) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/599/medium800/led_strips_WLED-QR-Connect-WB.png?1737574151) ## Setup & Preferences ### WiFi Setup Head to the **WiFi Setup** screen under Config and create a good URL so you can control your project from any web-enabled device. Call it something you'll remember, that's easy to type into any web browser on your WiFi network in order to connect to your project. In Safari or Chrome on your phone or computer, type in this web address to access the WLED interface: [http://projectname.local](http://projectname.local)  (where "projectname" is whatever you put into this field). Check out the Additional Settings page for more info on accessing your project. WLED has an "access point mode" that doesn't require a WiFi network for when you're out on the go. It's also helpful to download one of the WLED apps to help manage and organize your projects. ![adafruit_products_wled_config.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/115/288/medium640/adafruit_products_wled_config.jpg?1663802411) ![led_strips_adafruit_products_WiFi_Settings_generic.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/679/medium640/led_strips_adafruit_products_WiFi_Settings_generic.jpg?1722624553) ### LED Preferences Next, head to the **LED Preferences** tab under the Config menu. Scroll down to  **Hardware Setup**. Put your total number of LEDs into the "Length" field, and change GPIO to the pin number associated with the pin you soldered to. Check the pinout diagram for the board you're using (it's the number in yellow). - [Sparkle Motion Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion) - [Sparkle Motion Mini Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion-mini/overview) - [QT Py Pico Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/112309)  - [Feather Huzzah ESP8266 Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/46249)  - [Feather Huzzah ESP32 Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah32-esp32-feather/pinouts) ![led_strips_led_settings.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/680/medium640/led_strips_led_settings.jpg?1722624626) ## Use It ![adafruit_products_WLED_interface.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/115/394/medium800/adafruit_products_WLED_interface.jpg?1667150591) Now you can use any computer or handheld device to control your LEDs.  Make sure your device is on the same WiFi network as your board. Navigate to your custom URL (projectname.local/ ) in a web browser. You'll see a color picker above a whole bunch of color palette choices. Choose a color, choose an effect, and watch your lights animate and glow! Save your favorite combinations as presets, create playlists, control the speed and intensity of the animations, and lots more. This web app is incredibly intuitive and easy to use. Head over to the WLED wiki at [https://kno.wled.ge/](https://kno.wled.ge/) to delve into all the particulars. # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## WLED Additional Settings ### Brightness Limiter Find this on the LED Settings screen. WLED automatically limits the brightness of your project so your power supply doesn't get over-taxed. The default amperage is 850mA, which is a little low for most power supplies. For some projects, especially battery-powered projects, having the limiter turned on is a good idea. But if you're not getting the brightness you expect, try adjusting this number to match the amperage of your power supply or battery pack. ![adafruit_products_brightness_limiter.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/127/565/medium640/adafruit_products_brightness_limiter.jpg?1707333888) ### Access Point (AP) Mode While you're home, it's easy to control your project over your local WiFi network. But when you're out at a festival you probably don't have WiFi access. It's still possible to connect to your project and control it using WLED's Access Point Mode. Turn your project on and give it a minute or two to start broadcasting. Look in your WiFi networks and find **WLED-AP** - this is a mini WiFi network being broadcast by the microcontroller. Connect to it - the default password is "wled123". An instance of WLED will automatically pop up and you can control your project from anywhere. If you're putting your lights up in public, it's a good idea to change the AP Mode default password so strangers can't log in and control your lights. This could be a security risk. AP Mode only broadcasts for a few minutes after you boot up the board so if you don't see the WLED-AP network try rebooting. ![led_pixels_apmode.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/081/medium640/led_pixels_apmode.jpg?1711986345) ### WLED App There are a couple different apps available to manage your WLED projects. Name and organize your projects, and find them quickly without having to type in a URL. Check the Apple or Android store for downloads.  My favorite is "WLED Native". It allows you to organize multiple instances and easily switch between devices without having to remember any URLs.  ![led_pixels_wled_app.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/681/medium640/led_pixels_wled_app.jpg?1722625769) ### Backup Config & Presets Under Config / Security & Updates you will find a place to back up your data. It's a good idea to back up your config file as soon as you're happy with the settings. Save it as a .json file on your computer. Now you can prototype and experiment to your heart's content, and if everything breaks, just re-upload this file. Or, if you're doing another build you can use this feature to copy all your settings from one board to another. ![led_pixels_backup.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/695/medium640/led_pixels_backup.jpg?1722904724) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Planning & Layout ## What to Look For in a Coat ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/935/medium800/led_pixels_jacket_before.jpeg?1711467772) Choose a coat that is light in color with a fabric that's light-permeable. I scoured funky thrift stores for white or off-white coats, and found a furry vest for $35 that was almost ideal: warm, with fur trim, but made of a material that diffuses the light fairly well without blocking it too much. While you're shopping, use your phone's flashlight to test how much light shines through a fabric. Ski jackets and other windbreaker jackets tend to be light-blocking as well, with a tight fabric weave. White fun fur is a great choice, but real fur has a leather backing and will block the light entirely.  [Check out this guide on diffusion](https://learn.adafruit.com/make-it-glow-neopixel-and-led-diffusion-tips-tricks/fabrics) to see how different fabrics pass light through. It's helpful if your coat has big pockets where you can put batteries and controllers, but these are fairly easy to add if yours doesn't have them. Even on a coat with pockets, you may want to add inside pockets for the batteries so you still have room for your hands and your stuff in the outside pockets. I added a fabric pocket on the inside of each side of the vest, since it didn't come with pockets. One will contain the battery and microcontroller, and the other can be used for my stuff. Open up the lining at the bottom with a thread ripper and hand-sew the pocket through the lining layer only, leaving the lining loose from the main jacket.  Add some velcro or a button or other closure to the top of the pocket or your stuff will fall out and get lost, especially if your lining is silky and slippery (ask me how I know). ![led_pixels_24_pocket_(1).jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/945/medium640/led_pixels_24_pocket_%281%29.jpeg?1711470579) ## LED Layout & Density In this guide I'll show two different methods for lighting this coat: ### 1. Fur Trim Border Lights This is an easy build that doesn't require LED mapping or fancy sewing tricks. It looks great with the standard WLED setup. I used higher density 15mm pitch lights for a beautifully smooth animation, and ended up with around 250 lights to make it all the way around the coat.  ### 2. Light Matrix Panels This method uses three custom-built light panels sewn inside the body of the coat so the whole thing lights up in a grid. I used lower-density lights with 50mm spacing for the panels. My total number of lights in this strand was 154. The build is a bit more complicated, but gives us some really cool software options. I used the [LED Mapping](https://kno.wled.ge/advanced/mapping/) functionality in WLED to turn the whole coat into a matrix, and now I can show low-resolution animated images on the coat. This really makes the coat next-level -- lights that are mapped can create truly jaw-dropping effects. [Check out this guide for a primer on mapping with WLED](https://learn.adafruit.com/Monster-Matrix-with-WLED). This map won't be a rectangle, so it'll get a bit more complicated and require some mathematical thinking, but the end result is out of this world. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/946/medium800/led_pixels_22_3panels.jpeg?1711472063) ## LED Strip Limits: Battery Power & Processing Power When planning your layout and choosing your lights, take into account the total number of LEDs in your strip. [The documentation for WLED](https://kno.wled.ge/) recommends keeping each strip to around 500 LEDs. I've had it work with up to 650 in one strip, but it doesn't seem to be as reliable and some of the more complex animations might hang the microcontroller.  You can run up to 3 strips at once on 3 different microcontroller pins, so if you need more than 500 LEDs it's possible to do, but it makes the whole project a lot more complicated. Battery life is also a consideration. I don't want to carry around a giant battery all night just so my coat stays lit. With 150-200 lights, my coat will run all night with a palm-sized USB battery, as long as I keep the brightness pretty low.  Battery life is really hard to predict, so the best way to figure out the life of your coat is to test it out. Get two batteries, so you have a spare when the first one dies.  Check out this guide on [Sipping Power with NeoPixels](https://learn.adafruit.com/sipping-power-with-neopixels/overview) to learn more about how these LEDs draw power. ### Sipping Power With NeoPixels - Overview [Sipping Power With NeoPixels](https://learn.adafruit.com/sipping-power-with-neopixels) [Overview](https://learn.adafruit.com/sipping-power-with-neopixels/overview) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Electronics Assembly ## Feather Assembly Grab a male JST connector and solder the middle wire to data pin 13. ![led_pixels_00_feather_data.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/947/medium640/led_pixels_00_feather_data.jpeg?1711473251) Cut the male end off the USB power switch. Inside you'll find four tiny wires that are color coded. Red is your power wire (5v) and black is Ground (G). The other two are data wires. Note: some USB switches are charge-only, in which case you'll only find a red and black wire in there. This will still work. Strip some shielding off the outer wire, then also off the tiny inner wires. Do a 3-way splice to connect the power and ground wires on the JST connector to **both** of the corresponding red and black wires in the USB cable. ![led_pixels_01_cut_usb.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/949/medium640/led_pixels_01_cut_usb.jpeg?1711473469) ![led_pixels_03_power_soldered.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/950/medium640/led_pixels_03_power_soldered.jpeg?1711473628) Reconnect the two data wires to each other, white to white and green to green. We're not splicing anything in here, just reconnecting them back the way they were.  We're mainly using this USB cable for power, so we don't technically NEED those two data wires to be connected, but if they are there, then we can reprogram our Feather through the connected USB cable instead of having to dig it out of the coat lining to plug it in. ![led_pixels_04_reconnected.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/952/medium640/led_pixels_04_reconnected.jpeg?1711473810) ### Why do it this way instead of just soldering the JST connector wires to the Feather's **BAT** and **G** pins? It can be problematic to power all those lights by pulling the power through the microcontroller. If too much current goes through the board -- like if your lights get set to full white at full brightness -- it can be damaged. Wiring the project so the power goes directly to the lights instead of passing through the board is a safer option when you're using more than 30-50 lights. ## LED Strip Assembly Power the Feather by plugging in the USB C cable and a battery. Plug the female side of the JST connector into the male connector attached to the Feather. Grab 3 alligator clips and attach one to each of the leads on the connector. Strip the shielding from all 3 wires on the IN end of your light strand. These lights are generally not marked in any way, and different sources / lots may have a different wire order.  ![led_pixels_05_alligator.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/953/medium640/led_pixels_05_alligator.jpeg?1711474460) Look closely: one of the wires may have a reddish/copper coiled wire inside. This is the **+5v** wire. **Data** is usually the middle wire, and **G** is the remaining wire -- but don't trust that your lights are the same as my lights. Test with the alligator clips. ![led_pixels_reddish_wire.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/958/medium640/led_pixels_reddish_wire.jpg?1711476310) If you can't get the lights to light up at all, you may be connecting to the OUT end instead of the IN end. Try flipping the strip around.  Also, double check that you've set up the correct GPIO pin in **LED Settings** in WLED - the lights won't come on if you've soldered to pin 12 and set up the software on pin 13. Solder your connector to the light strand, adding in some more lead wire if needed so the light strand reaches its starting point while the Feather is in the pocket. Cover the connections with a piece of large heat shrink - mine is clear, so a little hard to see in the photo. Fill the heat shrink with hot glue and then use a heat gun to shrink it down. This will waterproof and strengthen your connection and make it a lot less likely to break -- very important for wearables! ![led_pixels_06_connected.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/954/medium640/led_pixels_06_connected.jpeg?1711474940) ![led_pixels_07_hotglue.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/955/medium640/led_pixels_07_hotglue.jpeg?1711475001) ## Testing Once your lights have come on, open a browser and go to your project in WLED. If you gave it a name in the WLED settings, you can get there by typing that into your location bar followed by ".local" -- mine can be reached by going to [http://envested.local](http://envested.local).  Try changing the color and choosing an effect, and make sure your whole strand lights up and responds. ## Troubleshooting If your lights don't come on or you can't connect to them, here are some things to try: 1. Be sure you are using a device that is on the same WiFi network you used in WLED setup 2. Check to be sure that the GPIO pin in software setup matches the pin you soldered the data connection to. 3. Is your switch turned off? Flip it to see if that's the problem. 4. Try reloading the WLED software onto the Feather. ## Sealing & Strengthening Once everything is working, take some time to make it last. Wearables get jostled, wiggled, spilled on, folded, sat upon, and otherwise manhandled all the time, and they almost always seem to break on the very first day of the festival. Here are a few things that will really help with the longevity of your project.  1. Slide a piece of [1" heat shrink](https://a.co/d/5xQYwiX) over the Feather to protect it and keep the Data wire from wiggling loose.  2. Use the heat-shrink-and-hot-glue method over all your wire connections to pot the connections in glue and keep them safe. The solder joints are the weakest point of the build and the thing most likely to break. 3. Add zip-ties to any wires that seem to want to pull or flex. Pull gently on all the wires and make sure the strain is taken by zip ties or heat shrink rather than on delicate solder connections. ![led_pixels_08_heatshrinked.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/956/medium640/led_pixels_08_heatshrinked.jpeg?1711475610) ![led_pixels_09_zipties.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/957/medium640/led_pixels_09_zipties.jpeg?1711476019) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Fur Trim Lights ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/942/medium800/led_pixels_jacket_layout_2.jpg?1711469931) The fur trim on my jacket goes all the way around the outside edges, and also around the sleeves. For this design I decided to use [lights with 15mm spacing](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805296630315.html) for smooth, higher-resolution animations. I tried my best to figure out a way to do this in one run of lights, without any breaks. These lights are inexpensive enough that I can spare a few extras, plus I can turn off any segment of lights in WLED, so even if I'm transversing an area that I want to stay dark, it's easiest to use one continuous strand of lights. Add enough lead wire to your light strand so your first LED can be centered - mine is centered in the lower back, so I have about 8" of wire to reach the pocket where the microcontroller will be. Use a thread ripper to open up the trim near the microcontroller pocket and also inside the shoulder seams.  The JST connector on the lights is big and corner-y and has lots of snaggy bits that will catch on everything as you try and work it through the trim. To make this easier, I covered the whole connector in gaffer's tape so anything that might catch on fabric is covered, then put a large safety pin through the tape to give myself something to grab and pull.  Be patient and take your time with this. Getting the lights in is harder than it looks. ![led_pixels_jacket_safetypin.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/938/medium640/led_pixels_jacket_safetypin.jpeg?1711468462) ![led_pixels_jacket_safetypin2.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/939/medium640/led_pixels_jacket_safetypin2.jpeg?1711468476) Once your lights are in place, cut a hole in the back of the pocket and slip your on/off switch and Feather through so they're inside the pocket. Sew them in place by hand by looping around the wires or using the mounting holes on the Feather.  Plug your battery into the other end of the switch with a short USB cable and slip that into your pocket as well. ![led_pixels_switch.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/061/medium640/led_pixels_switch.jpeg?1711740029) ![led_pixels_battery.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/062/medium640/led_pixels_battery.jpeg?1711740137) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/059/medium800/led_pixels_erin_furtrim.jpeg?1711739721) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Light Matrix Panels ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/966/medium800/led_pixels_panels_layout.jpg?1711477931) I placed my lights in a vertical serpentine pattern. My layout was not ideal, but in this case the layout doesn't matter too much since I planned on creating an LED map that will reorient the software to use whatever layout I desire, no matter the physical order of the LEDs. I created three separate lining panels, each out of two layers of fusible interfacing.  Fusible interfacing is a material that has a heat-activated glue on one side, made for ironing on to fabric to strengthen or stiffen it. You can find it at any fabric store by the yard, and also online. It comes in various weights and stiffnesses. I used the [lightweight variety](https://a.co/d/e0Yb5hP) since I'm not looking to add stiffness. I made the pattern by opening up the bottom lining of the coat and laying the interfacing inside on top of the fabric, then tracing the seam lines onto the interfacing with a sharpie. It doesn't need to be exact, but you do want it to lay flat in there without bunching. Leave a little extra at the side seams for seam allowance. ![led_pixels_10_interfacing.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/968/medium640/led_pixels_10_interfacing.jpeg?1711478268) Cut two pieces of interfacing for each section. It's best to fold the interfacing over onto itself and cut both sections at once. This will ensure that you have two mirror-image pattern pieces, one with the sticky side on the top and one with the sticky side on the bottom. We'll be fusing the two sticky sides together. Pin the lights onto the sticky side of one of your interfacing pieces in a grid pattern. Again, this doesn't need to be super exact, but the more even you can get the spacing, the better it will look. ![led_pixels_11_pinlights.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/970/medium640/led_pixels_11_pinlights.jpeg?1711478546) When you get to the end of a panel, cut the light strip, leaving yourself as much wire as possible to make it easy to solder on your connector. I like to use the "sacrificial pixel" method -- I lose one pixel by cutting this way but end up with twice as much wire on each side for soldering. ![led_pixels_12_sacrificial_pixel.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/973/medium640/led_pixels_12_sacrificial_pixel.jpeg?1711478685) The IN end of my lights used a female connector, so for the OUT end I used a male connector. It really helps to be consistent with things like this.  This connection goes over my shoulder seam, so I added extra wire to my connector to be sure it will reach. Cover all the solder joints with heat shrink filled with hot glue to strengthen them. ![led_pixels_13_connector1.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/976/medium640/led_pixels_13_connector1.jpeg?1711478821) ![led_pixels_14_connector2.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/977/medium640/led_pixels_14_connector2.jpeg?1711478947) Once all the soldering was done and I was happy with the placement of the wires, I moved all the pins to the other side of the panel, pinning the wires from the back side so the pins didn't get trapped inside when I fused the two interfacing pieces together.  Place the second piece of interfacing with the fusible side also facing inwards. You should have the sticky sides together with the lights trapped in between, and the pins on the outside holding things in place. ![led_pixels_15_pin_lights_connector.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/978/medium640/led_pixels_15_pin_lights_connector.jpeg?1711479168) ![led_pixels_17_interfacing2.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/980/medium640/led_pixels_17_interfacing2.jpeg?1711479132) Use your iron or a heat press to fuse the two panels together. This is a little tricky with a standard iron since you really need to press into the cracks between the lights, but it's possible using the iron's tip judiciously. Gentle ironing doesn't hurt the lights at all -- they're really tough - but I wouldn't advise leaving a super hot iron pressing hard for any length of time.  The interfacing fuses within 10-15 seconds, and the lights are fine under the iron for that much time. Be sure to press all around the edges so the lights stay put. Remove the pins and press again from the other side. ![led_pixels_18_ironed.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/981/medium640/led_pixels_18_ironed.jpeg?1711479201) ![led_pixels_19_ironed_closeup.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/984/medium640/led_pixels_19_ironed_closeup.jpeg?1711479363) Repeat with the other two panels, testing after soldering to be sure the lights are all working.    ![led_pixels_20_nextstrand.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/985/medium640/led_pixels_20_nextstrand.jpeg?1711479424) ![led_pixels_21_middlepanel.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/128/986/medium640/led_pixels_21_middlepanel.jpeg?1711479465) It's easier to do the LED mapping on the panels before they are installed in the coat, so let's do that part next. # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## LED Mapping ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/002/medium800/led_pixels_ledmap4_arrows.jpg?1711491553) Here's an image showing the physical layout of my LEDs. I have a total of 154 lights, numbered here from 0-153. Pixel 0 is near my right hip, and the lights move in a vertical serpentine pattern out to the front edge, then over the shoulder through the connector, winding up and down and across the rest of the panels.  This layout doesn't work out to a nice clean rectangle, or this job would be much easier. My strip also doesn't start in one of the corners, but rather somewhere in the middle, so a normal 2d matrix layout isn't going to work here. WLED has a solution: an LED map file. An LED map is simply a list of pixel numbers entered in whatever order is desired to make 2d animations look good, with the ability to add placeholder "dummy" pixels for the blank spots in the matrix. This matrix has blank spots in the arm holes, above the short sections of LED strip, which can be filled in with a dummy pixel (numbered -1) so the matrix comes out rectangular. WLED has options for serpentine or standard layout, and can start from any of the four corners. For simplicity, I'm using a standard (non-serpentine) layout starting in the upper left corner.  Here is the map file made from the layout above: ```auto {"map":[ 153,134,133,-1,-1,102,101,82,81,62,61,42,-1,-1,21,22,41, 152,135,132,-1,-1,103,100,83,80,63,60,43,-1,-1,20,23,40, 151,136,131,-1,-1,104,99,84,79,64,59,44,-1,-1,19,24,39, 150,137,130,-1,-1,105,98,85,78,65,58,45,-1,-1,18,25,38, 149,138,129,118,117,106,97,86,77,66,57,46,5,6,17,26,37, 148,139,128,119,116,107,96,87,76,67,56,47,4,7,16,27,36, 147,140,127,120,115,108,95,88,75,68,55,48,3,8,15,28,35, 146,141,126,121,114,109,94,89,74,69,54,49,2,9,14,29,34, 145,142,125,122,113,110,93,90,73,70,53,50,1,10,13,30,33, 144,143,123,123,112,111,92,91,72,71,52,51,0,11,12,31,32]} ``` There are 10 rows and 17 columns of pixels, and I've added a -1 in any of the blank spaces where I want a dummy pixel so the columns line up right. Take note of the formatting: there are no spaces anywhere in the file. Carriage returns are fine, but spaces will throw WLED off. This is harder than it looks. It's very easy to skip a number or mistype part of the list. Check and double-check your map for errors!  To upload your map, go to your WLED url and add "/edit" to the end: i.e. [http://envested.local/edit](http://envested.local/edit) You'll find an edit window for .json files. Click "Create" and call the file **ledmap.json.** Paste in the text of your map and click "Save". ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/001/medium800/led_pixels_edit_map.jpg?1711490804) Next, head back to the LED Settings page. Click 2d Configuration and select 2d Matrix from the dropdown. Set up your matrix to match the layout of your map. Mine has 17 columns and 10 rows, starting in the upper left corner. Don't upload your **ledmap.json** file in the "gap file" dropdown. A gap file and an ledmap are different. ![led_pixels_2D_Set-up.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/003/medium640/led_pixels_2D_Set-up.jpg?1711493077) ![led_pixels_Cursor_and_2D_Set-up.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/004/medium640/led_pixels_Cursor_and_2D_Set-up.jpg?1711493108) Power cycle the Feather so the **ledmap.json** file takes effect. ## Testing How do you know if it worked? Select the Chase effect with a color gradient palette. The lights will come on starting with the first LED in the map. If the lights in the upper left corner come on first and then scroll through like a book, your map is correct. Congratulations! If your physical LED 0 is still the first one that lights up, or if the lights come on in a strange or unexpected order, weird colors, or lights get skipped, your map needs to be edited - you may have missed a number or gotten them in the wrong order. ![led_pixels_chase.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/005/medium640/led_pixels_chase.jpg?1711493355) If your map seems right but the lights are still defaulting to the physical LED strip layout, another thing you can try is to create a second LED map in the "edit" screen. Call it **ledmap1.json** , save and reboot.  When there is more than one map to choose from, a dropdown appears in the "segments" screen so you can select your map from a list. This was helpful as I was troubleshooting - my coat wouldn't pick up the LED map at first, but I could change it here. You can create as many different maps as you'd like and choose which one to use for each of your animations and segments. ![led_pixels_segmentmap.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/006/medium640/led_pixels_segmentmap.jpg?1711493602) Once the mapping features are working, check this box on the "effects" page to filter for all the 2d effects in WLED. Try them out. Many effects have control sliders you can use to tune the animation, and some allow you to choose color palettes as well. The full range of 1d animations work too, but the 2d animations are where WLED really shines for this type of build.   ![led_pixels_matrix_box.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/007/medium640/led_pixels_matrix_box.jpg?1711493938) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/067/medium800/led_pixels_sugarbear.jpeg?1711741556) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Finishing If desired, sew the three panels together along the side seams. This will help keep them in place and in orientation with each other when they're inside the jacket. Use a thread ripper to open the lower edge and pull the lining away from the fabric. Place the panels inside and pin them in place right where you want them. If you have connectors that go over the shoulder seams, connect them up. ![led_pixels_panel_connectors.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/063/medium640/led_pixels_panel_connectors.jpeg?1711740409) Test to be sure the whole thing is working, and once you're happy with the placement, hand-sew the panels to the outer fabric layer. I used about 8-10 thread tacks on each panel to hold it securely and to minimize any seam lines showing on the outside of the vest. I also used my sewing machine to sew along the side seams, going through the fabric and interfacing but leaving the lining separate. Cut a hole in the back of the pocket and slide your switch and Feather through, so they're both reachable from inside the jacket pocket. It's a great idea to sew them in place - this will minimize the wires getting knocked loose and will make it easier to find the switch with your fingers. ![led_pixels_switch.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/064/medium640/led_pixels_switch.jpeg?1711740497) Machine or hand-sew the lining back in place along the bottom edge. Plug in your battery and slip it into your pocket. You're good to glow! ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/066/medium800/led_pixels_jacket_Fire.jpeg?1711741475) # LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ## Both At Once If you're just crazy about lights and you want both fur lights and matrix lights on your coat, that is possible too! WLED has the ability to run multiple strips on different GPIO pins.  I added two JST connectors to my Feather: one on GPIO 12 and one on GPIO 13. Here's a quick overview of my setup. I'm not gonna lie, this was pretty tricky to set up and I nearly gave up on running both strands at once, but here is how I finally made it work. ![led_pixels_feather_twoconnectors.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/068/medium640/led_pixels_feather_twoconnectors.jpeg?1711741634) ## LED Settings I added the matrix panels first, on pin 13. I checked the "Make a segment for each output" box down below, then added the fur trim strand on pin 12. ## 2D Configuration This stayed the same - I have one panel set up in a 10x17 grid. WLED will append any lights that aren't included in the panel as a strip or a second matrix.   ![led_pixels_LED_Settings_2strips-2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/069/medium640/led_pixels_LED_Settings_2strips-2.jpg?1711742421) ![led_pixels_2d_setup_2strips.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/070/medium640/led_pixels_2d_setup_2strips.jpg?1711742484) ## LED Map Setup Your **ledmap.json** file wants to see every single LED accounted for. Here's how I modified my map file to include both strips. The matrix panels are set up as strip 1, so those go in first, mapped in the order I want WLED to "see" them. There are 154 LEDs, so the map includes every number between 0-153. The Fur trim strip has 280 lights, so I appended 280 more numbers to the end of my **ledmap.json** file, starting with number 154 and counting up to 433, which is 1 less than my total number of LEDs (434), because we started with 0 instead of 1.  I used [ChatGPT](https://chat.openai.com/chat) to help me with this by asking it to type a comma-delimited list of every number between 154-443 with no spaces, and then I could copy/paste it right in. ```auto {"map":[ 153,134,133,-1,-1,102,101,82,81,62,61,42,-1,-1,21,22,41, 152,135,132,-1,-1,103,100,83,80,63,60,43,-1,-1,20,23,40, 151,136,131,-1,-1,104,99,84,79,64,59,44,-1,-1,19,24,39, 150,137,130,-1,-1,105,98,85,78,65,58,45,-1,-1,18,25,38, 149,138,129,118,117,106,97,86,77,66,57,46,5,6,17,26,37, 148,139,128,119,116,107,96,87,76,67,56,47,4,7,16,27,36, 147,140,127,120,115,108,95,88,75,68,55,48,3,8,15,28,35, 146,141,126,121,114,109,94,89,74,69,54,49,2,9,14,29,34, 145,142,125,122,113,110,93,90,73,70,53,50,1,10,13,30,33, 144,143,123,123,112,111,92,91,72,71,52,51,0,11,12,31,32, 154,155,156,157,158,159,160,161,162,163,164,165,166,167,168,169,170,171,172,173,174,175,176,177,178,179,180,181,182,183,184,185,186,187,188,189,190,191,192,193,194,195,196,197,198,199,200,201,202,203,204,205,206,207,208,209,210,211,212,213,214,215,216,217,218,219,220,221,222,223,224,225,226,227,228,229,230,231,232,233,234,235,236,237,238,239,240,241,242,243,244,245,246,247,248,249,250,251,252,253,254,255,256,257,258,259,260,261,262,263,264,265,266,267,268,269,270,271,272,273,274,275,276,277,278,279,280,281,282,283,284,285,286,287,288,289,290,291,292,293,294,295,296,297,298,299,300,301,302,303,304,305,306,307,308,309,310,311,312,313,314,315,316,317,318,319,320,321,322,323,324,325,326,327,328,329,330,331,332,333,334,335,336,337,338,339,340,341,342,343,344,345,346,347,348,349,350,351,352,353,354,355,356,357,358,359,360,361,362,363,364,365,366,367,368,369,370,371,372,373,374,375,376,377,378,379,380,381,382,383,384,385,386,387,388,389,390,391,392,393,394,395,396,397,398,399,400,401,402,403,404,405,406,407,408,409,410,411,412,413,414,415,416,417,418,419,420,421,422,423,424,425,426,427,428,429,430,431,432,433]} ``` ## Segment Setup Head to the main interface and find your Segments tab. You should see two segments already set up: the first one in a matrix and the second one.. well, the second one will likely want to be a matrix too. Let's change this back to a strip. Select "pixels" from the dropdown in the first segment to change the second segment from a matrix back to a 1-d strip.  Note: I had a lot of trouble getting this dropdown to appear consistently... it's there sometimes and not there sometimes. I found that opening the 2d configuration control panel seemed to make it appear the next time I clicked back to Segments. ![led_pixels_segments.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/071/medium640/led_pixels_segments.jpg?1711743072) Now you can run matrix animations on the matrix by selecting the checkbox for Segment 0, and run 1-d animations on the fur trim by selecting Segment 1. You can also select both segments and run the same animation on both sections at once. I made my presets using a naming convention where the name started with M for a matrix pattern, F for a fur pattern, or B for both. I could then set up playlists using whichever patterns I wanted to focus on.  Having both on at once looks AMAZING but it really sucks my battery dry quickly, so it's nice to program in some variation in my playlists. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/074/medium800/led_pixels_divebar_both2.jpeg?1711743926) ## Featured Products ### Adafruit NeoPixel Pebble / Seed LED Strand - 300 LEDs - 2" Pitch [Adafruit NeoPixel Pebble / Seed LED Strand - 300 LEDs - 2" Pitch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/6023) We have all sorts of LED strips for a wide range of needs. [_Chonky_](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3869) strips? 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In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1663) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1663/guides) ### Large Alligator Clip Test Lead (set of 10) [Large Alligator Clip Test Lead (set of 10)](https://www.adafruit.com/product/321) Connect this to that without soldering using these handy alligator clip test leads. 20" cables with alligator clip on each end, color coded. You get 10 pieces in 5 colors. Strong and grippy, these always come in handy! We often use these in conjunction with a multimeter so we don't... Out of Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/321) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/321/guides) ### USB Battery Pack for Raspberry Pi - 10000mAh - 2 x 5V outputs [USB Battery Pack for Raspberry Pi - 10000mAh - 2 x 5V outputs](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1566) A large-sized rechargeable battery pack for your [Raspberry Pi](http://www.adafruit.com/raspberrypi) (or [Arduino](http://www.adafruit.com/arduino), or [Propeller](http://www.adafruit.com/category/26), or anything else that uses 5V!). This pack is intended for... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1566) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1566/guides) ## Related Guides - [Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-esp32-feather-v2.md) - [Adafruit Sparkle Motion](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion.md) - [No-Code Battery Monitoring with WipperSnapper](https://learn.adafruit.com/no-code-battery-monitoring-with-wippersnapper.md) - [Garden Path Lights with WLED and a Sunset Timer](https://learn.adafruit.com/garden-path-lights-with-sunset-timer.md) - [Sparkle Motion Skirt with 2D Mapping](https://learn.adafruit.com/sparkle-motion-skirt-with-2d-mapping.md) - [Sound Reactive Paper Lanterns with LedFx](https://learn.adafruit.com/sound-reactive-paper-lanterns-with-led-fx.md) - [Severence-Inspired Lumon Bluetooth Speaker](https://learn.adafruit.com/bluetooth-speaker.md) - [Jellyfish Umbrella with easy WLED WiFi Control](https://learn.adafruit.com/jellyfish-umbrella-with-easy-wled-wifi-control.md) - [CircuitPython on ESP32 Quick Start](https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-with-esp32-quick-start.md) - [How To Install Drivers for WCH CH34X / CH340 / CH341 / CH342 / CH343 / CH344 / CH346 / CH347 / CH9101 / CH9102 / CH9103 / CH9104 / CH9111 / CH9114 / CH9143 USB to Serial Chips](https://learn.adafruit.com/how-to-install-drivers-for-wch-usb-to-serial-chips-ch9102f-ch9102.md) - [CircuitPython Web Workflow Code Editor Quick Start](https://learn.adafruit.com/getting-started-with-web-workflow-using-the-code-editor.md) - [No-Code DS18B20 Temperature Sensor with WipperSnapper](https://learn.adafruit.com/using-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-with-wippersnapper.md) - [Holiday Lights: Easy DIY Christmas Wreath & Garland with WLED](https://learn.adafruit.com/holiday-garland-decor-app-control-with-no-coding.md) - [Networking in CircuitPython](https://learn.adafruit.com/networking-in-circuitpython.md) - [Using Piezo Buzzers with WipperSnapper](https://learn.adafruit.com/using-piezo-buzzers-with-wippersnapper.md)