The enclosure is made of laser-cut acrylic. Acrylic is strong, but is brittle. When working with the enclosure especially when adjusting the screws, do not try to overtighten as acrylic can crack easily! Use a gentle hand.

First, find all 6 x acrylic plates and 8 x 4-40 machine screws and 10 x 4-40 hexnuts.

Peel off the acrylic backing and pop out any bits left from lasercutting.

Gently insert 2 4-40 screws into the two small holes on the front plate. The front plate is symmetric. You may need to use a screwdriver to (again, gently) feed the screws in.

Then screw the hexnuts on the end so that they are just below the end of the screw.

Do the same with the back plate. The backplate is not symmetric so make sure it is done as shown.
Place two 4-40 screws through the two holes in the PCB from up top, and fasten them with two hex nuts securely.
Place the bottom plate (its not symmetric and will only align well in one way) and use another two hex nuts to hold the bottom plate in place.
Place the back onto the kit, aligning the holes and enclosure guides.
Flip over the two pieces and place the front on top.

Place the side piece with a hole in it on the side with the end of the tube. the hexnuts should slide into the T-slots in the plastic.

Gently tighten both screws, not all the way but enough to keep the side piece in place and not sliding out.

Do the same for the other side.
Stand the clock upright. Insert the last two 4-40 screws and hex nuts into the sides if you havent yet.

Slide the top piece so that the hex nuts align with the T-slots and screw it into place.

Now you can go and tighten all of the screws once more, but do not try to overtighten as acrylic is brittle and can crack easily! Use a gentle hand.

This guide was first published on Mar 06, 2013. It was last updated on Mar 06, 2013.

This page (Case Assembly) was last updated on Feb 28, 2013.

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