Hydro Dipping

Water Temperature

We’ll use hot water because that will help dissolve the PLA. We set our faucet to the hottest setting and filled the container until the part can be completely submerged. Make sure the container is large enough to fit your parts.

Cut paper to size

After printing our graphics, we need to cut the paper down to size so it can fit inside our container.

Tape corners

We used masking tape to create a frame around the paper. This is really helpful because it makes separating the two layers easier.

The tape also helps keep the graphics together as the PVA film dissolves in water.

Peel backing

Now we can peeling away the backing from the paper. Start by carefully pulling on one of the corners and work your way through the whole piece.

Drape film

Use both hands to drape the film over the surface of the water with the ink side facing up. Within a couple of seconds, you’ll notice wrinkles start to form. After 20 seconds or so, the wrinkles will smooth out and start to dissolve. That's the sign we’re ready to dip. 

Dip angle

It's really important to dip the part slowly and at a 45 degree angle. Gently lower the part into the water until it’s completely submerged. Continue to keep your part submerged until the artwork has covered the part. 

Dry Part

Use a fan to immediately start drying your part. You’ll need to let parts dry for about an hour otherwise the ink will run and smudge.  

Remove handle

After the part feels dry we can go ahead and remove the stick by peeling off the hot glue.

Seal graphics

Once the ink dries, it hardens and almost feels like nail polish. It’s not scratch proof but it doesn’t easily rub off, so we think it’s durable enough for regular use. But if you need an extra layer of protection, you could use a coat of some type of protection spray.