Grab the printable files from and slice the main file, toggle.scad. Recommended settings:

  • 0.4mm nozzle
  • 0.25mm layer height
  • 2 perimeters
  • 10% infill

Next, it's time to place the heat-set inserts in the raised portion of the print. Begin by pressing the narrow end of the insert into the plastic by hand. If it's too tight, then use a 1/4" (or 6mm) drill bit to slightly enlarge the very top of the hole. Once the bottom of the insert is in place, heat your soldering iron and have a pair of needle nose pliers handy. Put the soldering iron into the heat-set insert and push down SLOWLY as the plastic melts. Once the insert is flush with the plastic surface, place the pliers on top of the insert to keep it from pulling out and withdraw the iron.

Repeat this process for all 4 inserts.

While there are specialty soldering iron tips designed to work with these threaded inserts, the author finds that his "normal" soldering iron can do in a pinch—just make sure it is clean and will not transfer any solder blobs into the threads!

Later, you may find that you need to raise your toggle. If so, use shim-1mm.scad -- If you need a different height, you can simply change the Z scaling of the model in your slicer. For instance, if you need a 1.5mm shim, scale it by 150% in Z, and 100% in X and Y. This step is optional and depends on the height of the components on the board under test.

You can also grab the scad file and change the height of the toggle tower and its position, in case you have more specific needs. This can be done with the free openscad program.

This guide was first published on Dec 11, 2020. It was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

This page (3D Printing and Finishing) was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

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