NeoPixel Setup
To achieve the best lighting effect, the NeoPixel strip was split into two sections. The two strips are daisy chained together with data in going into data out and both sharing power and ground.
Connect Switch to HalloWing M4
This On/Off switch features a JST extension cable that makes cutting the power from the battery easy. It's got a chonky button with a solid tactile feel. The length of the cable is just right for this project.
Connect Strip to HalloWing M4
The NeoPixel strip features a 3-pin JST connector that plugs into the NeoPixel port on the side of the HalloWing M4.
Attach Strip to Cover
The two strips of NeoPixel are attached to the back cover using double-sided Nitto tape. The strips are positioned in the center with equal spacing between them. Optionally use hot glue or mounting tack.
Screws for HalloWing M4
The HalloWIng M4 is secured using M3 x 6mm long flat head machine screws. Short screws are used in order tightly secure the PCB to the face-plate.stl part.
Secured HalloWing M4
Place the HalloWing M4 over the built-in standoffs on the face-plate.stl part. Fit the bottom standoffs through the mounting holes on the PCB. Line up the mounting holes near the USB port with the built-in standoffs. Insert and fasten 2x M3 screws to secure the PCB.
Screws for Face Plate
The face plate is secured to the frame using 4x M3 x 6mm long machine screws. Place the face plate down into the recess in the frame. The screws are inserted into the four tabs on the side of the face plate. Fasten the screws to secure the face plate to the frame.
Installing Back Frame
The back frame snap fits onto the front frame. Insert the lip near the top into the frame. The edges on the side of the frame grab onto the nubs on the frame.
Installed Back Frame
The back frame allows the LED strip to sit further behind the acrylic plate. This makes the acrylic diffuse the light from the NeoPixels much more evenly. Without the additional back frame the effect is not as bright or illuminated.
Installing Base
The base enclosure is secured to both the front and back frame using M3 screws and hex nuts. This makes the build sturdy and keeps the two frames together.
Secure Base to Frame
Place the base enclosure under the two frames and line up the mounting holes. Insert and fasten 2x M3 x 6mm long machine screws two the mounting holes.
Secure Back Frame
Use 2x M3 x 10mm long screws and hex nuts to secure the base enclosure to the back frame. Note, the hole in the base enclosure is for passing the JST battery cable through.
Install Switch Cable
The On/Off switch is disconnected from the HalloWing M4 and passed through the hole in the bottom of the base. Fit the JST connector through and reconnect it to the HalloWing M4. The On/Off switch will be accessible through the opening on the base's bottom cover.
Connect Battery to Switch
Plug in the JST cable from the battery to the JST connector on the other end of the On/Off switch.
Circuit Test
Use the On/Off switch to test the circuit before closing everything up. Take a moment to adjust the cables to better fit them inside the framing of the tombstone.
Install Back Cover
The back cover snaps fits over the back frame. Make sure to fit all of the wiring into the framing before closing the back cover.
Snap Fit Back Cover
Double check the wiring is inside the tombstone and not being kinked. Check all of the edges to make sure the cover is fully secured and in place.
Fitting Battery in Base
The battery and cable from the On/Off switch are neatly fitted and adjusted inside the base. Double-sided tape is used to secure the On/Off button. Mounting tack can be used to keep the battery in place.
Install Base Cover
The bottom cover is press fitted into the base. It features snap fit edges that grab onto the nubs built into the base. The openings in the cover allow access to the On/Off button.
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