# Guardian Robot with LEDs ## Overview https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwwE6hcRmVI ## The Guardian Robot This creature is one of the main "bad guys" in the video game, Zelda: Breath Of the Wild. It has six legs and a deadly laser beam that shots out from the singular eye. It can certainly do some major damage to our hero, Link, but is no match for the Master Sword.  ## 3D Printing Articulating Joints This guardian robot was designed and 3D modeled by [Steve](https://www.thingiverse.com/steveut). He shared his design on [Thingiverse as a free download.](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2359634) The head freely rotates apart from the body and the limbs are made up of segments, so they can articulate. The main body and head are printed in place! > After printing the Maker Faire Action Robot Figure my son and I sat down to design our own robot... My goal was to print the robot in as few parts as possible while ensuring that all of the joints printed cleanly. What I like most about the design is how well it's optimized for FDM 3D printing. No supports required and minimal material for infill. The head, joints and parts of the body are hollow, so it's not using up a whole lot of material. Another benefit of hollowed parts allows for integrating electronics. ## Add LEDs! As this was mostly a weekend project, I was inspired to add LEDs to really make it come to life. I started out by drilling out a hole in one of the articulating joints and threaded wires through each of the segments that make up a limb. It worked out nicely, so I figured I'd document the project. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/600/medium800/leds_hero-table-1.jpg?1497445903) ## Prerequisite Guides If your new to electronics and working with LEDs, I suggest you walk through the following guides to get basics of wiring and soldering. The following guides will walk you through setting up LEDs.  - [Collin's Lab – Soldering](../../../collins-lab-soldering/learn-more?view=all) - [All about LEDs](../../../all-about-leds) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/632/medium800/leds_parts-segs.jpg?1497467879) ## Components For this project, I used six 3mm LEDs, a breadboard PCB, JST breakout and a battery. No micro-controller necessary! Full list of parts are linked below. ### Part: Adafruit Perma-Proto quantity: 1 Quarter-sized Breadboard PCB - Single [Adafruit Perma-Proto](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1608) ### Part: Blue LEDs quantity: 6 Diffused 3mm blue LEDs [Blue LEDs](https://www.adafruit.com/product/780) ### Part: Battery quantity: 1 150mAh 3.7V Lithium Ion Polymer [Battery](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1317) ### Part: On/Off Switch quantity: 1 JST-PH 2-Pin Breakout Board [On/Off Switch](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1863) ### Part: Resistor Through-hole quantity: 6 220 ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25 [Resistor Through-hole](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2780) ## Tools & Supplies To put together the electronics, we just need a few tools like a soldering iron and some wire cutters. But using a panavise and helping third hands just makes things easier.  ### Part: Wires quantity: 1 30AWG Silicone Cover Stranded-Core [Wires](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2051) ### Part: Soldering Iron quantity: 1 Heat Pen [Soldering Iron](https://www.adafruit.com/category/84) ### Part: Panavise quantity: 1 Holds Boards and Things Sturdy [Panavise](https://www.adafruit.com/product/151) ### Part: Third Helping Hands quantity: 1 Holds wires sturdy [Third Helping Hands](https://www.adafruit.com/product/291) ### Part: Heat Shrink quantity: 1 Adds insulation to exposed wires [Heat Shrink](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1649) ### Part: Flush Diagonal Cutters quantity: 1 CHP170 [Flush Diagonal Cutters](https://www.adafruit.com/product/152) ### Part: Wire Strippers quantity: 1 Hakko 20-30 AWG - CSP-30-1 [Wire Strippers](https://www.adafruit.com/product/527) ### Part: Helping Third Hand quantity: 1 Includes Magnifying Glass Tool - MZ101 [Helping Third Hand](https://www.adafruit.com/product/291) # Guardian Robot with LEDs ## 3D Printing ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/631/medium800/leds_simplify-3d.jpg?1497467284) ## 3D Printing BIG The main body of the guardian robot is fairly large, dimensions of ~120mm x 122mm x 115mm. However, it should fit on most 3D printers with a build volume of around 150mm cubed. The parts do not require any additional support materials.  ## Filaments I used silver/gray colored PLA material to print the body and the segments. This material can be printed without a heated bed and around 210-220c on the extruder temperature. It'll take around ~155grams of filament (about $7 in material costs). So be sure to have a fresh spool of plastic. [Download STLs from Thingiverse ](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2359634) ## Slice Settings I sliced the parts using Simplify3D. It's paid software license, but you can optionally use CURA which is free and open software. You'll have to adjust your slice settings to accommodate for your printers profile. The tolerances may slightly vary from printer to printer.  - 0.4mm nozzle - 1.0 (100%) extrusion multiplier  - 0.48mm extrusion width - 2 shells with 5 top/bottom layers - 20% infill - 90mm/s print speed - 200mm/s movement # Guardian Robot with LEDs ## Circuit Diagram ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/630/medium800/leds_circuit-diagram.jpg?1497466404) ## Wiring LEDs There are six LEDs used in this project, each needs two wires – That's a total of 12 wires. Each LED needs a [220ohm](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2780) or 330ohm current limiting resistor. We'll connected all of the wires into a quarter size Perma-Proto breadboard PCB. To power the LEDs, we'll connect a switched JST breakout board to the perma-proto. A 3.7V Lithium ion polymer battery will supply the voltage. This provides a visual reference for the wiring of the components. They aren't true to scale, just meant to be used as reference. # Guardian Robot with LEDs ## Wiring ## Measure Wire Lengths First step is to figure out how long our wires need to be. In order to do this, we'll need to assemble one limb. Each limb is 15 segments. Each segment snaps together, forming an articulating limb. A whole assembled limb is roughly 6in (15cm) in length. Our wires will have to be longer than this. Mine were about 9in (22cm). The extra length accommodates for the distance needed to wire into the breadboard PCB. ![leds_wire-length.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/637/medium640/leds_wire-length.jpg?1497469395) Primary: ## Thread Wires Once I have all of my wires measured and cut to size, the next step was to install them into each limb. To do this, I threaded the wire through each individual segment. It was easier this way, as the wire would get caught when trying to thread it through the whole limb assembly. This was very reminiscent to building popcorn necklaces.   Tip: I found it necessary to add a piece of masking tape to one of the ends – This prevents the wire from accidentally slipping out of the segments. ![leds_thread-wires.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/639/medium640/leds_thread-wires.jpg?1497469522) ## Tinning Wires After I had the wires threaded and installed into each  limb, next I worked on tinning all of the tips. Since I'm using 30AWG silicone cover stranded core wire, it's a good idea to tin them. First, I needed to strip each wire using a pair of wire strippers. I highly recommend using a pair of helping third hands to hold the wires in place while applying solder.  ![leds_tinning-wires.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/643/medium640/leds_tinning-wires.jpg?1497469906) ## Tin LEDs Next I needed to work on prepping the LEDs for wiring. First, take note which electrode is positive (anode) and which is negative (cathode). Normally, the positive anode has a longer leg. Then, I trimmed the anode short using flush cutters. After that, I tinned it by applying a small amount of solder. ![leds_tin-LED-legs.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/647/medium640/leds_tin-LED-legs.jpg?1497470257) ## Wire Anode With the anode tinned, it's ready to wire up! Before wiring, I made sure to add a small piece of heat shrink tubing to one of the wire that are threaded through the limb. Then I attached it to the anode by soldering it in place. Slide the heat shrink over the exposed wire and apply heat to shrink. ![leds_wire-anode.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/649/medium640/leds_wire-anode.jpg?1497470538) ## Wire Cathode After our anode is wired, we can work on wiring the cathode. Basically repeat the same steps as we did for the anode. Optionally add heat shrink tubing for the cathode. I found using tweezers to hold the wires close to the cathode was very helpful. Keeps my fingers away from the tip of the hot tip of the soldering. ![leds_wire-cathode.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/650/medium640/leds_wire-cathode.jpg?1497470783) ## Test LED Wiring Using a [3V coil cell battery](https://www.adafruit.com/product/654) I quickly tested to see if I had correctly wired the LEDs. This is done by placing the negative (cathode) wire onto the negative side of the coin cell, and the positive (anode) wire to the positive side of the coin cell. If everything if wired correctly, our LED lights up! Next, we'll need to repeat this process for the rest of the limps. It's a bit of process, so feel free to take breaks. ![leds_test-led.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/651/medium640/leds_test-led.jpg?1497470988) ## Drill Holes Once I had all of the LEDs wired up and tested, I needed to through them through the joints in the main body. To do this, I had to drill 4mm holes into each joint. It's easy todo with a rotary power tool like a Dremel. On the flat side of each joint, I marked two lines to find the center and drove the tip of the drill bit into the joint.  ![leds_drill-holes.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/652/medium640/leds_drill-holes.jpg?1497471217) Primary: ## Wire Joints After drilling out all of the necessary holes, I needed to thread each wire through the joint. Insert a single wire through the smaller sphere and out through the large joint. Pull the wire through and repeat for the second wire. I found it a bit difficult to thread the wires, so I ended up drilling larger holes in each joint.  ![leds_thread-joint.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/653/medium640/leds_thread-joint.jpg?1497471498) Danger: ## Wiring Perma Proto Now that all of the wires are threaded through the joints, we can wire them into the perma-proto PCB. They can be soldered into any of the power and ground rails (marked blue for negative (cathode) and red for voltage (power, anode, positive). ![leds_wiring-perma-proto.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/654/medium640/leds_wiring-perma-proto.jpg?1497471772) ## Install JST On/off Switch Breakout I attached the JST breakout board to the perma-proto by soldering header pins (included with the breakout) to the PCB. Then, placed the header pins into available pins on the perma-proto. Solder the headers in place. The headers should be placed in pins that are across from each other, not "down" the row. Note how the rows are connected but the columns going across are not. This is how most breadboards work. The numbers correspond to the columns.  If you're new to electronics and want more detail, please follow the circuit diagram and walkthrough the prerequisite guides. ## Wired Perma-Proto And with everything wired into the perma-proto, we can now test it out! Plug in the male JST connector from the lipo battery into the female JST connector on the JST breakout board. Make sure the on/off switch is in the ON position. The blue LEDs will shine bright. ![all-leds-wired.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/655/medium640/all-leds-wired.jpg?1497472133) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/042/658/medium800/leds_hero-table-2.jpg?1497472239) ## LEDs are Awesome! And that's it for this project. It's really more of a proof of concept / prototype. There's lot of room for improvements. From an electronics stand-point, we could wire the LEDs into an IoT board like the [Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266](../../../../adafruit-feather-huzzah-esp8266/pinouts?view=all) and Adafruit IO with IFTTT (If This, Then That) to have the LEDs trigger whenever you get notifications. We actually have a [project that does exactly this](../../../../smart-toilet-light/overview?view=all).  ## Featured Products ### Adafruit Perma-Proto Quarter-sized Breadboard PCB - Single [Adafruit Perma-Proto Quarter-sized Breadboard PCB - Single](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1608) Customers have asked us to carry basic perf-board, but we never liked the look of most basic perf: it's always crummy quality, with pads that flake off and no labeling. Then we thought about how people **actually** prototype - usually starting with a solderless breadboard and... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1608) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1608/guides) ### Diffused Blue 3mm LED (25 pack) [Diffused Blue 3mm LED (25 pack)](https://www.adafruit.com/product/780) Need some indicators? We are big fans of these diffused blue LEDs, as featured in the LoL shield. They are really bright so they can be seen in daytime, and from any angle. They go easily into a breadboard and will add that extra zing to your project. - Pack of 25 diffused blue... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/780) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/780/guides) ### Through-Hole Resistors - 220 ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25 [Through-Hole Resistors - 220 ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2780) ΩMG! You're not going to be able to resist these handy resistor packs! Well, axially, they do all of the resisting for you! This is a **25 Pack of 220Ω Resistors.** More specifically, they are **carbon film** , through-hole... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2780) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2780/guides) ### Lithium Ion Polymer Battery - 3.7v 150mAh [Lithium Ion Polymer Battery - 3.7v 150mAh](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1317) Lithium-ion polymer (also known as 'lipo' or 'lipoly') batteries are thin, light, and powerful. The output ranges from 4.2V when completely charged to 3.7V. This battery has a capacity of 150mAh for a total of about 0.6 Wh. If you need a larger battery, In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1317) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1317/guides) ### Switched JST-PH 2-Pin SMT Right Angle Breakout Board [Switched JST-PH 2-Pin SMT Right Angle Breakout Board](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1863) This switched JST connector is the best way to quickly prototype with our LiPoly batteries. We paired a genuine JST connector with a slide switch that can do up to 600mA. Both are soldered onto a breadboard-friendly breakout. There's two ground pins, one 'switched' power pin, and... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1863) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/1863/guides) ### Type A Machines Series 1 Pro 3D Printer [Type A Machines Series 1 Pro 3D Printer](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2412) Built to last and better than ever. The **Series 1 Pro 3D** printers from Type A Machines offer durability, modularity and one of the largest build volumes in their class. Featuring a streamlined aluminum and acrylic body, a glass build surface... No Longer Stocked [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2412) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2412/guides) ### PLA Filament for 3D Printers - 1.75mm Diameter - 1KG [PLA Filament for 3D Printers - 1.75mm Diameter - 1KG](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2063) Having a 3D printer without filament is sort of like having a regular printer without paper or ink.  And while a lot of printers come with some filament there's a good chance you've been printing up a storm and need something new.  That's why we've started carrying a... No Longer Stocked [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2063) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2063/guides) ### Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Wire - 30AWG in Various Colors [Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Wire - 30AWG in Various Colors](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2051) Silicone-sheathing wire is super-flexible and soft, and its also strong! Able to handle up to 200°C and up to 600V, it will do when PVC covered wire wimps out. We like this wire for being extremely supple and flexible, so it is great for wearables or projects where the wire-harness has to... Out of Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2051) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2051/guides) ## Related Guides - [Light Up your Costume with Noods](https://learn.adafruit.com/light-up-your-costume-with-noods.md) - [USB to Eurorack Power Supply](https://learn.adafruit.com/usb-to-eurorack-power-supply.md) - [DotStar Pi Painter](https://learn.adafruit.com/dotstar-pi-painter.md) - [Arcade Fightstick](https://learn.adafruit.com/arcade-fightstick.md) - [Celebration Spectacles](https://learn.adafruit.com/celebration-spectacles.md) - [3D Printed Glowing Mace Prop](https://learn.adafruit.com/3d-printed-glowing-mace-prop.md) - [Tyrell Desktop Synthesizer](https://learn.adafruit.com/tyrell-desktop-synthesizer.md) - [Rainbow Chakra LED Hoodie](https://learn.adafruit.com/rainbow-chakra-led-hoodie.md) - [Simple LED Unicorn Horn](https://learn.adafruit.com/simple-led-unicorn-horn.md) - [Breadboards for Beginners](https://learn.adafruit.com/breadboards-for-beginners.md) - [Ninja Timer: Giant 7-Segment Display](https://learn.adafruit.com/ninja-timer-giant-7-segment-display.md) - [Chinese Dragon Puppet with Motion-Reactive Flame Effect](https://learn.adafruit.com/chinese-dragon-puppet-with-motion-reactive-flame-effect.md) - [Owl IR TV Remote](https://learn.adafruit.com/owl-ir-tv-remote.md) - [MX MIDI Guitar](https://learn.adafruit.com/mx-midi-guitar.md) - [CircuitPython MIDI to CV Skull](https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-midi-to-cv-skull.md)