Persistence of vision (POV) is the illusion of a solid image where there is none. It’s a task for which LEDs and microcontrollers are a natural fit. Many of our kits and guides have visited this topic before.

Poi is a performance art of spinning tethered weights. Some of the most dramatic performances use fire poi! We sought to create something with that level of wow, but safer and usable indoors or out. And so these “Genesis” POV-poi were born…high tech, all-season, water- and playa-resistant poi that you can build and customize yourself!

I’ve wanted to make this as a DIY project since roughly forever ago, but only recently did all the pieces fall into place: our new DotStar LED strips are THE thing for persistence-of-vision effects, the Adafruit Trinket microcontroller is tiny and affordable, 3D printing is more accessible than ever…the “aha!” moment was buying some plastic tubes as a small-parts storage idea and recognizing them as the missing piece.

Here be Dragons…

I hate to sound patronizing, but just need to warn: don’t be fooled by its whimsical nature or small size, this project is deceptively challenging! A slew of tools and skills are involved, requiring top-notch soldering and fitting things in a very confined space. Heck, I designed the thing and still several times had to back up and retrace some very frustrating and time-consuming steps.

Read through the entire guide before deciding if you’re ready to tackle this one. If you proceed, allow lots of time and grant yourself permission to make mistakes. Take breaks and approach it fresh. I’ll try to steer you around the worst rage-face moments, but you may still hit a couple.

Also: remember when the Nintendo Wii first came out and people were busting their televisions? There's potential here for similar mayhem. The plastic capsules are hard and can break things or injure people. If you’re new to poi spinning, make a practice set first using something soft. Get to know the bounds of your personal “space bubble” and how to spin safely.

Parts and Tools

Poi are usually spun in pairs, so you’ll need at least two of some of these items.

Parts from Adafruit:

Parts NOT from Adafruit:

  • Soda bottle preforms — sometimes called “baby soda bottles” or “classroom test tubes” — these incredibly durable little capsules are 2-liter soda bottles before the blow-molding stage. Look for 130mm inside depth. You can find these on Amazon or eBay. If you can’t find ones that fit, no problem — small plastic soda or water bottles sometimes work.
  • Leash and swivels. You can use paracord and #8 nickel ball bearing fishing swivels…a well-stocked tackle shop might have the swivels…or you can order a really luxurious pair of ready-to-go leashes and swivels for about ten bucks ($20 with stainless steel swivels) from Flowtoys.com!

Tools & Miscellaneous:

  • 3D printer (see “3D Printing” page for size limitations & workarounds).
  • Soldering iron and related paraphernalia.
  • Small stranded wire…a combination of 26 gauge and 30 gauge silicone-cover wire is ideal. Use the thicker gauge for power, thinner for signals.
  • Small bits of heat-shrink tubing.
  • Adhesives: E-6000 craft glue and 5 minute epoxy.
  • Files and sandpaper for cleaning up the 3D print.
  • A computer running the Arduino IDE software, ideally version 1.6.4 or later. Support for the Trinket microcontroller can be enabled through the Boards Manager (Tools→Board→Boards Manager…).
  • A computer running Python for graphics conversion, or we provide a few images to get you started.

I have a couple of 3.3V Trinkets on-hand, can I use those instead?

Yes you can, only difference is that the startup battery level display won’t work. Comment out that code and use the space for additional graphics.

How long will they run? How long to recharge?

The poi can run continuously for about one hour (or multiple shorter sessions totaling one hour). USB recharge takes about 90 minutes for a fully-depleted battery.

3D Printing, etc.

I recommend starting with the 3D parts before you even order any electronics. The fit of these parts is exceedingly fussy and error-prone, and if you reach an impasse here you can shelve the project with minimum investment and heartache.

You’ll begin by tracking down a series of tubes:

These are 2-liter soda bottles in their larval form…before the blow-molding stage, but with the threads intact. Soda bottle preforms are watertight and near indestructible, making them popular with geocachers and schools needing kid-safe labware.

I found mine on eBay, but they also turn up on Amazon (search for “soda bottle preform” or “baby soda bottle”). The size and shape seems to be fairly standardized, but if they specifically mention “130 mm interior depth,” so much the better. Some places sell these one-off for just a few bucks apiece, or you can save by buying a set (using the spares for small parts storage…or getting started in geocaching).

I’ve started a thread in the Adafruit Forums to help in tracking down capsules that are known to work. Check the discussion, or add a note if you’ve found a winner.

Trouble finding preforms that fit the 3D parts? Not to worry! Some small soda or water bottles occasionally work. Look for one with the traditional coarse soda thread…many varieties of bottled water use a finer thread that won’t work for this project.

Clip or sand off any plastic “sprue” protruding from the end of the preforms. These are sharp and will hurt if caught in motion!

3D Printing

While waiting for your soda preforms to arrive, you can get a head start on the 3D printed parts. As mentioned, these are fussy and it may take a few tries to get right.

There are two pieces: a special bottle cap (with lanyard hole) and an insert that precisely fits inside the soda preform…we’ll be attaching electronics to this later. Print two of each — poi are usually spun in pairs — four parts total, but print just one part at a time. The prints come out cleaner (fewer strings), and it’s less frustrating restarting a small print job than having a whole complex bed-full-of-parts print job fail.

Both parts are designed to print without support.

Print the cap with 3 shells (rather than 2) for added durability. You may need to use a large brim for better bed adhesion, since it stands narrow-end-down.

The insert is about 130 mm tall and may not fit some smaller printers when standing upright. Printing sideways is fine but requires support material and additional cleaning up. For really small printers, angling it corner-to-corner can work (do you know the math puzzle about the long spear in the shipping box?)

After printing, clean up the parts with files and/or sandpaper. Be especially careful to remove any stabby protrusions in this slot in the insert:

A lithium-polymer battery will slide in there later. Puncturing LiPoly batteries is one way they can catch fire, hence the extra attention to removing plastic nubs here.

Test Fit

When your soda preforms arrive, check that the printed insert fits inside and the cap screws on securely. The insert should slide in and out easily. If there’s friction, smooth any protruding bits with sandpaper. When everything looks good, rinse off any remaining plastic dust and set aside until completely dry before adding electronics.

If sanding isn’t sufficient to make the insert fit your preforms, you can try tweaking the design in Autodesk 123D (.123dx model is included in the ZIP file).

Go Forward! Move Ahead!

So now, if everything successfully printed and fits together to your liking, you can proceed to order all the electronic parts.

Additionally, you’ll need a pair of handles and leashes for your poi. Originally I’d used paracord and hunted down some #8 nickel ball bearing fishing swivels (eBay), but you’ll find it easier and get better results ordering a ready-made “flowleash” pair from Flowtoys.com…they’re super comfortable, and the basic pair is only $10, or $20 for a pro version with stainless steel swivels. Their web site shows how to adjust the leashes and has lots of great poi spinning information (and if this whole 3D printing thing doesn’t work out for you, there’s some fine, if technologically simpler, LED poi available there).

Prep Work

Though the circuit isn’t complex, it needs to fit into a very tiny space. You’ll need sharp tools in good shape, wire in multiple gauges (26 ga for power, 30 ga for signals), stinky adhesives and — most of all — patience and perseverance.

Also, heads up: this requires really solid soldering. Poi get dropped, they collide and they smack into things. The plastic soda capsule that’s so useful against moisture and playa dust does nothing to reduce physical shock. Cold solder joints — where solder beads up on the surface, not flowing smoothly between parts — will not withstand shock. Connections will break (often invisibly) and your poi will misbehave or stop working entirely, and you’ll be sad. The Adafruit Guide to Excellent Soldering demonstrates some good solder joints vs. duds.

Okay! No more doom & gloom, let’s get on with this thing!

The circuit consists of two 16-pixel DotStar strips, the Trinket microcontroller, LiPoly battery and packpack, and a single button and switch. Charging and programming are through the USB port.

Before doing any soldering or other work, do this: using a small dab of E6000 glue or 5 minute epoxy, reinforce the wires coming off the LiPoly battery. We’ll make a sharp bend there later and don’t want the wires breaking off. 

Peel the tape up a little and get the glue underneath, where the wires connect to the board. Don’t let the metal E6000 tube contact the terminals! Set aside to dry completely.

If you don’t already have the DotStar library for Arduino installed, skip ahead to the “Code” page for a moment and set that up, then return here. Go ahead and download the poi software as long as you’re there.

If you peer closely at the LED strip you’ll see the + and connections are labeled, and arrows show the direction of data from “in” to “out” … but these 144 LED/m DotStar strips are packed so tightly, there’s no space for “data in” or “clock in” labels!

Manufacturers make production changes from time to time…so rather than give you a specific pinout, it’s best if you decipher it and make a note for yourself to refer to later…

Use jumper wires and a spare Arduino if you have one, else you can solder temporary connections to the Trinket board.

+ and  connect to 5V and GND on the Arduino (or USB+ and GND on Trinket).

Load up the the strandtest example sketch included with the DotStar library.

Change the 'NUMPIXELS' value to 64 (enough LEDs for two poi). Just below this, you’ll see 'DATAPIN' and 'CLOCKPIN'. If using a Trinket, change these to 1 and 2. Then connect wires from the two defined pins to the two free connections on the strip. Press the upload button to transfer the code to the Arduino board.

If the strip lights up, fantastic! Now you know the positions of the clock & data pins relative to + and –. Write it down!

It’s normal for just the first section of the strip to cycle colors, not the whole thing, and you’ll see one white pixel at the end of the lit section.

If the strip does not light up, either switch the two wires, or switch the two numbers in the code (and upload again). If it still doesn’t light up, try connecting at the opposite end of the strip (you might also need to try the clock/data swap again at this end).

If no combination seems to work, start a new thread in the Adafruit Forums for help. Please try to provide at least one photo that clearly shows your connections between the strip and Arduino, and any other relevant information you can provide (computer operating system, version of Arduino IDE, etc.).

When it works and you have your notes, disconnect all the wires.

Now open the 'poi' sketch (if you didn’t download this before, skip ahead to the “Code” page for the link). Select Tools→Board→Adafruit Trinket 16 MHz, plug a USB cable into one of your Trinket boards and then press the Upload button. Repeat with the second board. This pre-loading step will make it easier to test the electronics later before everything’s sealed up.

Using snips or a hobby knife, cut and peel the rubber coating off the DotStar strip. The ends of the strip are sealed with a rubbery glue that peels away with enough scraping and swearing.

The wires can be desoldered from the strip and the ends cleaned up with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. Or if it’s easier, you can just sacrifice one LED and clip it (and the wires) off the end (there’s a few more LEDs than we need for the poi).

For each poi you’re making, cut two 16-pixel segments from the strip. These tightly-packed strips have only one set of solder pads between LEDs…you’ll want to make cuts so the pads remain on the INPUT end of each segment…pads aren’t needed on the output end.

Double…no, triple check that you are cutting sixteen (16) LEDs and leaving pads on the INPUT end!

Trim the corners away to help it fit the end of the tube. This might not be 100% necessary, but it’s one of those nice touches like a sandwich cut diagonally.

Use a hobby knife or a file to scratch away the trace between these two solder pads on the LiPoly backpack.

Parts suppliers change from time to time. If your power switches have these really long legs, clip them down to about half their length (~1/8" or 3mm is good).

Test fit the switch and pushbutton in the cutaways at the bottom of the 3D printed insert. Use a file to clear away any support material or cruft that interferes with their positioning. Both of these parts should be slightly recessed, their tips sitting flush with the bottom face — not protruding — test by pressing down against your work surface. 

The button might be a little wobbly. That’s okay, we’ll glue the snot out of it later.

Before we do any soldering, let’s lay out all the pieces to familiarize ourselves with the plan…see where every piece fits and do any last-minute cleanup of the 3D printed parts.

  • The flat areas on the insert are where the LED strips will go, with the input pads toward the tip.
  • There’s a slot at the tip where the Trinket board will nestle.
  • Another slot mid-way holds the LiPoly backpack. The edge of this board needs to sit juuuust flush with the edge of the insert…if it protrudes, there’s probably still some plastic cruft still to be scraped away in the slot. The battery connector should point “down,” toward the base.
  • The battery slots into the base, with the wires pointed “out.” Be sure there’s no stabby plastic residue in the slot…file it smooth if necessary.
  • Switch and button were already test-fit, you know where those go.

Prep work done! Flick on your soldering iron for the next phase…


Here’s the schematic again, for reference:

When building two or more poi, you’ll probably find it faster and easier to do each step on all the poi, assembly-line style, rather than building each one start-to-finish.

DO NOT connect the battery to anything until instructed to do so. Soldering on a live circuit can be dangerous.

Power Switch

Cut two 3-inch (75 mm) — or slightly longer — pieces of 26 gauge silicone-insulated stranded wire and strip about 1/8" insulation from one end (to match the pins on the switch). Give the bare ends a twist and “tin” the wires with a tiny bit of molten solder.

Tin two pins of the power switch — the center pin and either of the two outside pins. Then solder the wires to these pins.

It’s vital thoughout this project that the solder flow smoothly between components. Cold solder joints — where the solder is beaded on the surface — do not withstand physical shock.

Fresh solder flux (which is built into the core of the solder) is essential. You’ll have one or two tries to make the connection…any more than that and the solder starts to get sticky and misbehave. When this happens, you can mop up the bad solder with your iron and a solder sucker or copper desoldering wick, then begin again with virgin, flux-rich solder.

Add small bits of heat-shrink tubing over the switch connections and carefully shrink with a lighter or heat gun.

Heat-shrink tubing is not just to prevent electrical shorts, it also provides the solder joints some strain relief against shock and vibration.

Strip a similar amount of insulation from the other end of the wires, twist and tin the ends. Feed these top-to-bottom through the two power switch holes and solder. There’s no specific polarity — either wire can go to either hole.

When the soldering looks good, trim away any excess wire so the bottom of this board is relatively smooth.

Test fit the placement of the switch and LiPoly backpack. You’ll see there’s a little channel for the wires to run through, and a notch that holds the edge of the board.

If there’s a few millimeters of slack, that’s fine. If there’s a whole lot of slack, you’ll need to desolder the wires from the backpack, trim them down a little, and re-solder.

If the wires came up too short, not to worry. Use a hobby knife to cut away the heat-shrink tubing, de-solder the connections from both ends, then cut a new pair of wires a little longer and repeat these steps.

This is what I mean by “fussy.”

Mode Select Button

The steps are very similar to the power switch above…

Cut two pieces of 30 gauge silicone-insulated stranded wire about the same length as the insert. We’ll cut these to an exact length later.

Trim a little insulation from one end of the wires, twist and tin.

Tin the pins of the pushbutton switch and solder the wires here. Again, you’re looking for smooth, reliable connections. 

Heat-shrink the pins once the connections are satisfactory. 

Set this piece aside, we’ll come back to it in a bit.

Why are two different gauges of wire being used?

Heavier-gauge wire has less resistance and can carry more current…but space is so limited here we can’t fit the 26 gauge wire throughout. So the battery and power-hungry LEDs will get 26 gauge, while the microcontroller and signal wires (which don’t require a lot of current) use the slimmer 30 gauge.

Charging Wire

Easy one!

Cut a single piece of 26 gauge wire a little over 2 inches (50 mm) long…or, with the parts laid out atop the insert, you’re aiming to reach from the “5V” pin on the LiPoly backpack to the “USB+” pin on the Trinket.

Strip, twist and tin both ends of the wire and solder those connections, then trim the wires flush.

This wire should be long enough to position the Trinket in this slot, with the USB port protruding just a couple millimeters. As with the power switch wires before, you may need to re-do this to get the length just right.

Battery Distrubution

The weird part!

We’ll now cut a total of eight wires…just a little bit longer than the charging wire…and strip about 1/4" of insulation from one end. Six wires should be 26 gauge, the other two are 30 gauge.

Color-coding the wires for +V and ground isn’t required, but sure does help keep track of things. This makes for two groups each with three 26 gauge wires and one 30 gauge.

Pair up wires side-by-side and twist the ends together. Two of these pairs will be 26 gauge wire, the others two will combine one 26 and one 30 gauge wire.

Now twist pairs together end-to-end. Solder the connections and add just enough heat-shrink tubing to safely cover that area.

You’ll now have two little “bow tie” things with three thicker wires and one thin wire.

Goal now is to route these wires and trim them to exact lengths. I found it helpful to tape everything down for this step.

On the end with two thick wires: route one + and one – wire around either side of the USB connector. These wires will not be trimmed yet.

On the end with the thick-and-thin wires: the thick wires go to the LiPoly backpack — black needs to reach to G, red to BAT, while the thin wires must reach the Trinket’s Gnd and BAT+ pins. Allow a few extra millimeters on each to strip, twist and tin, but do not solder any of these connections just yet.

Well okay, the red wires are pretty straightforward — thick wire to LiPoly backpack BAT, thin wire to Trinket BAT+. Leave the other two thick wires alone for now, straddling the USB connector.

Mode Select Button

…and more power stuff.

install the mode button into the notch at the base of the insert. Like the power switch, there’s a channel for the wires to run through.

Position the other components at their approximate installed distances, then clip the mode button wires to reach the following points (with a few extra millimeters of slack):

  • G on LiPoly backpack.
  • Pin 3 on Trinket.

Strip, twist and tin the ends of these wires.

Now insert and solder TWO wires through the G pin on the LiPoly backpack: the shorter wire from the mode button, and the thicker (26 ga) ground wire.

Try to keep the wires orderly on these last few steps…use tweezers to “comb” the wires apart as needed so they’re not twisted around each other.

Solder the mode button’s longer wire to Trinket pin 3.

The narrower (30 ga) ground wire then solders to the Trinket’s Gnd pin.

Clock and Data Lines

Cut four 30 gauge wires, similar length to all the power wires you previously made. If color-coding, two are for LED data, two for clock.

Strip about 1/4" of insulation from one end of each wire, then pair them up and twist and tin the ends.

Solder one pair to Trinket pin 1 (data) and the other to pin 2 (clock).

Double-check that you’re getting the correct holes, else the poi won’t work. Pin 0 is not used.

That’s all the soldering on the Trinket and backpack! There’s still more to do elsewhere though…

Glue and More Soldering

Carefully trim flush any protruding wires from the underside of the Trinket and LiPoly backpack boards.

Inspect the connections carefully for any signs of shorts or cold solder joints. Soon these boards will be tucked away and very difficult if not impossible to repair.

“Tweezer comb” the wires to straddle the USB port. Take your time so they’re not tangled. There should be four wires on either side: one each of power, ground, data and clock. Tape each group down as you work so they don’t run wild.

Carefully slot the Trinket into the printed insert, removing the tape as you go.

Once the Trinket’s in position (the USB port should protrude just a couple millimeters), tape the wires together in a bundle.

Tip the LiPoly backpack up and squeeze a dollop of either E6000 glue or 5-minute epoxy on its underside.

Slide the backpack into place (the edge should be flush with the insert) and clamp in place with a clip, clothespin, some tape, whatever you have handy.

Do the same for the Trinket, then slide into place and clamp.

The edge of the board should protrude from the insert just the tiniest bit — a millimeter at most.

Glue the power switch and mode button in place. This step really calls for epoxy, not E6000.

Make sure the tips of these controls are flush with the base, not protruding.

Don’t glop them up too much! The sides of the switch have openings where glue could get in and interfere with its operation.


E6000 requires hours to reach full strength. This is an excellent time to take a break or stop for the day. Put the pieces in the garage or out on a balcony while the glue dries…the fumes aren’t healthy to breathe. Turn off the soldering iron, wash your hands because you’ve been handling all this stuff, then go to bed, go for a bike ride or have a Pop-Tart®.

We’ll continue below. In the meantime, here’s another picture of Erin “Firepixie” spinning POV-poi to keep you motivated:

Almost there!

Solder LED Strips

Using pliers, add a little bend to the tips of the LED strips (where the solder pads are) to help them fit in the tube. Then position them over the poi insert and hold in place temporarily with tape or rubber bands.

Those notes you took earlier about the LED strip pinout? Here’s where you’ll need them…

Tin each pad on the strip with a tiny bit of solder.

“Tweezer-comb” the clock and data wires on one side over the corresponding pads on the LED strips, trim length to fit (a few mm slack is OK), then strip just a tiny bit of insulation and tin the tips of the wires. Using tweezers to hold the wires, solder them to the LED strips. Make sure the solder joints are smooth and shiny, not “cold” joints.

Next, repeat the procedure with the power and ground wires. Notice how on each side we’re connecting half the wires for each strip; this is normal.

Turn the poi insert over and repeat these steps for the four wires on the other side. Clock, data, power and ground.

Dry Run

The moment of truth!

You should have already loaded the poi sketch onto the Trinket microcontroller(s). If not, skip ahead to the “Code” page for a moment, fetch that software and program the boards.

Remove the tape from the LED strips.

Pivot one LED strip out slightly (if any solder connections break, that’s a cold joint, fix it), then carefully plug the LiPoly battery into the backpack.

DO NOT use a metal tool for this! It’s too easy to short across the battery connections. Use a toothpick or other non-conductive implement to push the plug into the socket.

Flick the power switch (if it’s not already on — look for the green power light on the Trinket board). After a few seconds, the LEDs should start doing things!


If the LEDs don’t come on, here’s some things to check…

Green power LED on the Trinket doesn’t light with the power switch in either position: disconnect the battery immediately! It may be an electrical short between + and ground. Connect a USB cable between your computer and Trinket. If the light comes on then, it’s probably not a short, just a spent battery. Re-connect it and allow some time to charge.

Green LED is on, but the LED strips do nothing: connect a USB cable and make sure the poi sketch is loaded on the Trinket board. If there’s still no response, probably a wiring mistake…either the clock and data wires are reversed, or they’re connected to the wrong pins on the Trinket (should be pin 1 for data, pin 2 for clock).

Only one LED strip is active: wires are probably in the wrong order on the unlit strip.

Power switch won’t budge: glue has seeped inside. Use more force to try to break it free. If it’s completely wedged, there’s no choice but to break it down and solder in a new switch.

Power is always on, switch does nothing: on the LiPoly backpack board, the copper trace between the power switch connections has not been cut.

Once any issues resolved and the LEDs are doing things as expected, switch it off for the final assembly steps…

Final Assembly

Carefully fold the battery wires back across the battery (this is why we reinforced those connections in an early step).

Slide the battery into the slot at the base of the insert, tucking the wires into the channel shared with the mode select button.

Add a couple zigzag bends at the other end (near the LiPoly backpack) to take up any slack and tuck them in.

Spread a thin layer of E6000 glue or some epoxy on the backs of the LED strips, then clamp them in place with anything that holds them flat…sticks and rubber bands, for example.

Allow some time again for the glue to dry. Watch some cat videos on YouTube or some poi lessons on Flowtoys’ web site.

Once the glue is completely dry, using a toothpick or other nonconductive tool to carefully pack all the wires inside.

Slide the insert into the soda preform. If there’s substantial friction, stop and look around for protruding wires or excess glue residue which can be scraped away.

Fire it up, confirm everything still works. Screw on the cap and make sure it doesn’t accidentally trigger the mode button or power switch.

Kind of resembles the Genesis device from Star Trek II, doesn’t it? Hence the name. :)

For the poi to look their very best for photography, a few status LEDs should be covered up. (Otherwise there’s stray light streaks in the image.)

I thought black nail polish might work for this, but it’s actually not that great…took about three coats to fully obscure the status LEDs. Common acrylic hobby paint is probably a better choice.

As a final step, dabs of epoxy were added to hold wires down in place…silicone wire is very “grippy” and drags against the tube when slid in or out. Some extra glue was added near the base of the Trinket board to help secure it, and the wire-to-LED-strip connections at the tip were reinforced.

Be very careful to keep epoxy from seeping into the USB port! If that happens, the poi can never be plugged in for charging or reprogramming.

While waiting for glue to dry, attach leashes to the caps. If using the snazzy Flowtoys leashes, their web site has directions for adjusting length and tying them.

If you like, screw on the empty plastic soda preforms and practice with those for now. It’s a good opportunity to dial in the leash length just right.

Once all the various glues are completely dry, plug the poi in to charge.

The green status LED indicates the battery is full. Charging may take up to 90 minutes.

The LED strips may flicker red during charging. This is normal!

Use It!

Slide the insert into a soda preform, flick the power switch, select an image with the mode button, screw the cap shut and have at it!

When first switched on, the LEDs will briefly display the (approximate) battery level before the POV effect starts.

Holding down the mode button for longer than 1 second will enable an auto-cycle mode, which will show a different image every 15 seconds.

If this is your first time using Trinket, follow the Adafruit Arduino IDE Setup for guidance; a couple extra steps are required compared to typical Arduino Uno programming — the Introducing Trinket guide may help. Try out the “blink” sketch and confirm you can upload code to the board (on the Trinket board, the LED is on pin 1 instead of 13). If you’re not already running the Arduino IDE version 1.6.4 or later, this is a really good time to upgrade. It greatly simplifies installing libraries and support for alternate boards such as Trinket.

Software for the poi project can be fetched from GitHub:

The “poi” folder contains the Arduino sketch for this project. The “convert” folder is a utility for processing images — we’ll cover that on the next page.

This project also requires the Adafruit DotStar library for Arduino. Use the Library Manager to install this (Sketch→Include Library→Manage Libraries…), or if you’re using an older version of the Arduino IDE, it can be downloaded and installed manually:

There are two files in the “poi” folder, which will open as two tabs in the Arduino sketch. The second file/tab — graphics.h — contains the bitmaps and color palettes for the different modes. We’ll explain how to add different ones on the next page.

The code and example images are filling the Trinket’s program space right up to the brim. Occasionally updates to the Arduino IDE software result in programs that are just a little bigger than they used to be. If that happens, it will be necessary to remove one or more images from graphics.h to free up some space.

Digging through the poi code itself, you might spot references to some additional features. These aren’t used in the poi project because both program memory and physical space in the plastic capsule are at their limits…but in the future, this same code might be used in other projects where space is less of a concern.

I can compile the code but it won’t upload to the Trinket board!

You might have a “charge only” USB cable. Definitely need the normal “charge+data” type for this. Switch it out for a different cable and try again.

Preparing Images

The poi can display small GIF images with up to 16 colors (though two-color images — bitmaps — are much smaller and you can store more of them). Images are 16 pixels tall, and a maximum of 255 pixels wide (but can be as narrow as 1 pixel).

There’s not a whole lot of space on the Trinket. After the code stakes its claim, there’s little more than 1,700 bytes free for images. A 16-color GIF requires 48 bytes plus an additional 8 bytes per column. A 2-color (bitmap) GIF requires 6 bytes plus an additional 2 bytes/column. There’s enough space for a few carefully-crafted “pixel art” type images.

A tiny 16-pixel-high Welsh flag. I’m not even Welsh, but totally a sucker for anything with a cool dragon on it. Rawr.

The process for converting images for the poi is a little gritty right now, requiring a command-line tool written in Python. It also requires the Python Imaging Library (PIL).

Probably the least-bothersome way to do this right now is on a Raspberry Pi computer, where most of the tools are already built-in, though this requires some familiarity with the Linux operating system.

I'd like to make a more user-friendly tool for this in the future. But for the time being these steps remain a bit technical.

Installing and using Python varies from system to system. On the Raspberry Pi, Python is already installed by default, though PIL must be added manually:

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sudo apt-get install python-imaging

Things will be entirely different on Windows or Mac or even on other Linux distributions. Unfortunately setting up Python is way beyond the scope of this guide, so you might Google ’round for tutorials elsewhere. If this gets too dry and technical, don’t fret…I suspect that given time other users will post some good poi-ready images to the Adafruit Forums.

So, let’s suppose we have this little Welsh dragon GIF image, 16 pixels tall by 26 pixels wide:

The top of the image will correspond to the tip of the poi. The flag of Wales traditionally has the dragon facing left, but it’s flipped here because the poi will “paint” the image left-to-right…and if you were swinging an actual physical flag through actual physical air, the dragon always faces the direction of motion (the example images also include a United States flag, and that one’s flipped for the same reason…you’ll see this with flags on the starboard side of an airplane too…part of international flag protocol).

ANYWAY, to convert this using the Python script, you’d type:

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python convert.py wales.gif > graphics.h

Or you can convert a whole list of images:

Download: file
python convert.py *.gif > graphics.h

The “> graphics.h” redirects the output of the convert.py script to the plain-text file graphics.h, which can then be incorporated into an Arduino sketch.

Inside the file you’ll see one or more sections like this:

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// usa.gif -----------------------------------------------------------------

const uint8_t PROGMEM palette04[][3] = {
  {  56,  56,  56 },
  {  56,   0,   0 },
  {   0,   0,   0 },
  {   0,   3,  56 } };

const uint8_t PROGMEM pixels04[] = {
  0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22,
  0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X33, 0X33, 0X33, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X33, 0X03, 0X03, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X33, 0X03, 0X03, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X33, 0X03, 0X03, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22,
  0X33, 0X33, 0X33, 0X30, 0X10, 0X10, 0X12, 0X22 };

Above is the data for an American flag…a four-entry color palette (white, red, black, blue) followed by the pixel data (packed two pixels per byte).

Then, near the bottom of the file, you’ll see a block like this:

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const image PROGMEM images[] = {
  { PALETTE1 ,  100, (const uint8_t *)palette00, pixels00 },
  { PALETTE4 ,   48, (const uint8_t *)palette01, pixels01 },
  { PALETTE4 ,   54, (const uint8_t *)palette02, pixels02 },
  { PALETTE4 ,    1, (const uint8_t *)palette03, pixels03 },
  { PALETTE4 ,   24, (const uint8_t *)palette04, pixels04 },
  { PALETTE4 ,    9, (const uint8_t *)palette05, pixels05 },
  { PALETTE4 ,   26, (const uint8_t *)palette06, pixels06 }

This table holds references to all of the images in the file, along with their widths in pixels (height is always 16) and format (bitmap or up to 16 colors).

If you need to free up some program space in a hurry, you can just comment out or delete a line in this table…the compiler is smart enough to not include the corresponding image data in the final program.

This guide was first published on Jul 13, 2015. It was last updated on Jul 13, 2015.