To make soldering easy, we'll need to remove the display driver by unlocking the black plastic bar to release the ribbon cable.
Use a panavise to hold the driver while soldering each wire as shown in the circuit diagram.
Solder wires to the two pads as shown above. Careful not to bridge any connections by using a fine tip to solder.
Carefully tin and solder each wire for composite, composite negative, power, ground, band and channel buttons.
We couldn't fit standoffs in the compact enclosure, so mounting tac is used to hold the battery and powerboost in place.
Add four dots to the battery and five dots to the powerboost to help them stick to the back of the display. Make sure to add enough tac so they are elevated above the display.
Straighten the pins on the buttons so the can fit through the slots inside the mounts. Use a flat plier bend to the pins.
The tolerances will be tight, use a hobby knife to help loosen the slots.
Make sure the button pins poke through the slots and tin and solder each button.
Use a panavise to hold the lid while soldering.
Solder each connection to the powerboost as shown in the circuit diagram.
Shorten the pins on the slide switch with a flush cutters and then tin and solder each wire.
Add tac to the top of the battery to help level the display driver.
Make sure the clean the inside of the case of any filament left over from retraction before fitting the components inside. Carefully angle the display into the case as shown.
Add tac to the powerboost riser to mount the FPV receiver.
Screw on the antenna to the receiver and tune to the channel the FPV camera is on the test the monitor.
Attaching display to controller
If you plan to use the monitor on the controller, use #6-32 1/2 inch screws and nuts to attach the clamp parts to the antenna on the controller.