The tip that was cut off for printing is glued back together using E6000. Apply a generous amount on one side and stick the two pieces together. Allow the parts to dry for about 4 hours.
After the parts dry we can move on to finishing.
Wait until the glue is fully dry before cutting off the excess glue. Use a hobby blade to carfully remove the glue from the sides.
Airbrushing sets really well on NinjaFlex while allowing it to twist and bend without it chipping off.
We got the dark bloody look by mixing a couple drops of red and a tiny bit of black to give the parts a bruised look. You can use a couple drops of water to help mix the colors.
This was our first time airbrushing, so we practiced getting a feel for it before we started. We practiced on failed prints and on paper to get used to spraying and to figure out how to achieve the look we were going for.
We’re really just adding a couple shades to the creases on the intestine and then adding vein details.
Start with a couple of really light coats and build your way up. Even a couple of really light coats gives parts a dramatic look when compare to one without.
Shade along the bulges and leave a couple of the spots untouched to give it a nice highlight.
If you accidentally spray too much, you can use a damp paper towel to lightly wipe away excess paint.
Once you have all of the layers coated we can move on the adding the vein details. Practice with the distance you’ll need to spray to get those thin lines and then practice on a prototype part before trying it on the final part.
Assemble cable and battery
After your happy with the look, you can add your charging cable through the part. The USB port should have a snug fit.
This actually has a useful application beside looking gross. It acts as a strain relief on the end of cables!
The material is virtually indestructible, which is why we really like using NinjaFlex filament, especially for mobile phone cases.
That’s it for this one. If you have any suggestions for future projects, just let us know!