Install Speaker into Head

On to assembly! The speaker should snap fit into the cover/cap of the hammer. If it's too tight or too loose, you'll have to either use a filing tool to open up the cavity, or glue it in place. Eitherway, that's one of the caveats of 3D printing – tolerances tend to vary from printer to printer, slicer to slicer. If it does fit,  well then you're just won the maker lottery! :-)

Install Head into Neck

Next, we'll need to grab the two wires from the speaker and thread them through the neck of the hammer. The cover/cap of the hammer has to be installed in a certain way – There's a little grove along the lip of the cover. The neck of the hammer has a nub on the edge that snap fits into the grove of the cover. This helps keep the two pieces connected together, but allows you to remove if you need.

Install Neck into Base

Now we can thread the wires from the speak through the base of the hammer. The smaller cylinder from the neck of the hammer simply fits into the hole in the hammer base. These should have a pretty tight fit.

Install Base into Rod

OK, next we'll need to thread the wires from the speak through the rod. Notice the rod has a coil only on one end? That end actually twists onto the bottom of the hammer base. Pretty cool huh? Just make sure you thread the speaker wires through the right end and twist the parts and fully tighten.

Install Rod into Handle

Now we can thread the speaker wires through the handle. That's lots of threading! The end of the rod without the coil snaps into the side of the handle with a hole on the end. The other hole (the one on the flat side) is actually for the pushbutton. Make sure the speaker wire comes out from the handle.

Install Button to Handle

Let's install the pushbutton into the handle. First, guide the wires from the button into the hole and pull them through so they come out from the bottom opening of the handle. Press the pushbutton down until it's flush with the surface of the handle. 

Connect Speaker to Ampilifer

Now that we our 3D printed parts mostly assembled, we can move onto connecting the remaining components together. Here, we're connecting our wires from the speaker into the amplifier. Positive to positive, negative to negative.

Connect LED from Button to Power

If your pushbutton features an LED, you'll need to connect the wires from it to the JST switched breakout. I found soldering the positive wire to the SW pin a bit tricky because the power wire from the Audio FX board is already in there, so you'll need to be cautious it doesnt come out when you solder both in. Luckily, the JST breakout has two grounds so you can use the remaining ground for the negative wire of the LED.

Connect Pushbutton to Audio FX

All that's left to wire is the two from the pushbutton to the Audio FX board. One needs to go to the pin labeled #0 and the other to GND. The pushbutton can be wired to any of the 10 numbered pins, but since we named our audio files with a 00, it needs to go there. If you do wire it to a different number, you can easily rename the file to reflect the pin number.

Test Final Circuit

Now we can do a final test and see if everything works! Grab the JST connector from the battery and plug it into the female JST port on the JST switched breakout. Flip the switch on and press the pushbutton to trigger the audio samples. If everything went well, you'll hear some sound effects! Woohoo! All that's left to do now if to  (carefully) stuff all of the components into the handle. I didn't get a photo of this because it's kinda hard to see. But, one thing I did use is mounting putty / tack to stick the components in place. You could also use double sided foam tape or glue – whatever you prefer. The end cap for the handle simply snaps into the bottom. Easy!

Turning it On/Off

I made sure to keep the JST switched breakout close to the end cap so I can easily get to it and turn it on/off. Depending on your setup, you'll need to figure out how you'll get in and out of the prop.

Recharge Battery

The 2200mAh battery should last an hour or more depending on how much you trigger the audio samples. Once the battery is depleted, you can recharge it using an Adafruit Micr Lipo charging breakout. Connect a microUSB cable to a power source (like a computer or 5V power brick) and plug it into the breakout. 

This guide was first published on Oct 17, 2016. It was last updated on Oct 17, 2016. This page (Assembly) was last updated on Aug 27, 2019.