Build Size

The 4-piece enclosure was designed to print on a MakerBot Replicator 2 build. If you have a different 3D Printer, you build plate will need to be at least 250mm x 148mm y ~50mm z. Below is a table list of each piece and recommended print setting. We recommend using MakerWare to slice the STL files.
Base Frame
About 9hrs
100g 
PLA @ 230c
No Raft
No Support
20% Infill / 2 Shells
.20 Layer Height
90/150 mm/s
Neck Frame
About 6hrs
66g
PLA @ 230c
No Raft
No Support
20% Infill / 2 Shells
.20 Layer Height
90/150 mm/s
Base Cover
About 2.5hrs
28g
PLA @ 230c
No Raft
No Support
20% Infill / 2 Shells
.20 Layer Height
90/150 mm/s
Neck Cover
About 1.5hrs
21g
PLA @ 230c
No Raft
No Support
20% Infill / 2 Shells
.20 Layer Height
90/150 mm/s
Since these take a while, its a good idea to get the printing started and then you can work on the electronics!

Printing Techniques

Build Plate Preparations
There's a great video tutorial by Dr. Henry Thomas who demonstrations a great technique for preparing acrylic build plates for awesome prints. Wipe down the plate with a paper towel lightly dabbed in acetone. Use another paper towel and apply a tiny dab of olive oil. Wipe down the plate so a small film of oil is applied, this will allow the parts to come off the plate easier.

Live Level
We recommend going raft-less for each piece because it will have the best quality result. Each piece will require a well leveled platform. We tend to "live level" our prints, meaning we adjust the build plates thumb screws while the print is laying down filament. This way we can make adjustments directly and improve the leveling by seeing how the extruders are laying down the first layer onto the build plate. We recommend watching the first layer so that you get a more successful print. If you see the layers aren't sticking or getting knocked off, you can always cancel print, peel it off and try again.

Removing the pieces
The best tool for removing prints from the build plate is to use a circuit spatula. Try to avoid scratching your acrylic build plate. A good way to remove the covers is to position the spatula on the edge of the layer above the build plate. Apply pressure to the spatula closely grip it upwards and pull up removing the piece from the build plate. The two frames are large enough to remove them by applying slight pressure to the build plate. Like bending it back so the pieces snap right off. Be careful not to hurt yourself or break the acrylic in half.

Clean Up & Enclosure Assembly

Your parts may have bits of unwanted artifacts on the edges. You can use an x-acto knife to trim any access and unwanted bits. There are 4 small screw holes on each frame part, two on each side. The body and neck frames will need to be screwed together for a secure assembly. Use 3/4 sized philips screws to hold the frames together. We recommend using a small screw driver.

Add Magnets!

Our enclosure design uses magnets to snap on the covers. Each frame and cover piece requires 3mm neodymium magnets to easily remove the covers. You can grab a batch of 30 of them on amazon for under $10. You will need to fit them into the pillars and super glue them on. Make sure you test the polarities so the covers are magnetically attracted to the frames.

This guide was first published on Oct 23, 2013. It was last updated on Oct 23, 2013.

This page (3D Printing) was last updated on May 01, 2021.

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