# Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## Overview https://youtu.be/t7Bfu9tktNk Welcome, Traveler. How might I help you? Adventurers, friends, and companions will feel welcome in your space when they see this custom glowing tavern sign, lit from inside with a fiery glow. Program different animation modes to suit your mood with just a few taps on your phone, or control the colors and animations with an infrared remote. This project will transform your home bar or game room into a delightful warm refuge for weary travelers. Tankards not included. ### Difficulty This is an intermediate level project. Skills needed: - Soldering +2 - Coding +0 - Woodworking +3 ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/158/medium800/sensors_splashbar_hero.jpeg?1700686717) ## Materials The ESP32 Feather V2 is a powerful board that works seamlessly with the free WLED software. It can be powered with a battery through the JST port or with a USB cable directly through the onboard USB-C port. You'll need a USB-C cable to program it as well. ### Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM [Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400) One of our star Feathers is the [Adafruit HUZZAH32 ESP32 Feather](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) - with the fabulous ESP32 WROOM module on there, it makes quick work of WiFi and Bluetooth® projects that take advantage of Espressifs most popular chipset. Recently we had... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/5400/guides) ![Top view of black rectangle-shaped microcontroller.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/5400-13.jpg) ### USB Type A to Type C Cable - approx 1 meter / 3 ft long [USB Type A to Type C Cable - approx 1 meter / 3 ft long](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4474) As technology changes and adapts, so does Adafruit. This   **USB Type A to Type C** cable will help you with the transition to USB C, even if you're still totin' around a USB Type A hub, computer or laptop. USB C is the latest industry-standard connector for... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4474) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4474/guides) ![Angled shot of a coiled black, USB-C to USB-A cable.](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/4474-02.jpg) ### Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply 5.1V 3A with USB C [Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply 5.1V 3A with USB C](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4298) The official Raspberry Pi USB-C power supply is here! And of course, we have 'em in classic Adafruit black! Superfast with just the right amount of cable length to get your Pi 4 projects up and running! Best for use with Pi 4 series, [Pi...](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5814) In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4298) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4298/guides) ![Angled shot of Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply 5.1V 3A with USB C with Power plug facing down. ](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/4298-04.jpg) For lights, this project uses mini-skinny NeoPixels. These are available in several different densities, so there are a few options. For my sign I used the medium-density [60/m pixels](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2964). This project could also be done with [30/m NeoPixels](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2954) or the super-high density [144/m NeoPixels](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2970) for extra buttery-smooth animation. ### Adafruit Mini Skinny NeoPixel Digital RGB LED Strip - 60 LED/m [Adafruit Mini Skinny NeoPixel Digital RGB LED Strip - 60 LED/m](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2964) So thin. So mini. So teeeeeeny-tiny. It's the 'skinny' version of our classic NeoPixel strips! These NeoPixel strips have 60 digitally-addressable pixel Mini LEDs per meter and are very affordable and are only 7.5 mm wide, 5 mm if you remove the strip from the... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2964) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/2964/guides) ![Video of an Adafruit NeoPixel Digital RGB LED Strip with all the LEDs illuminating various colors. ](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/product-videos/640x480/2964-06.jpg) Adding infrared control is simple in WLED, so I wired up an IR sensor to my Feather. This makes it easy to turn the sign on and off or choose animation modes without needing to go find my phone. ### IR (Infrared) Receiver Sensor [IR (Infrared) Receiver Sensor](https://www.adafruit.com/product/157) IR sensor tuned to 38KHz, perfect for receiving commands from a TV remote control. Runs at 3V to 5V so it's great for any microcontroller. To use, connect pin 3 (all the way to the right) to 5V power, pin 2 (middle) to ground and listen on pin 1. It doesn't do any decoding... In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/157) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/157/guides) ![IR (Infrared) Receiver Sensor plugged into breadboard](https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/640x480/157-00.jpg) WLED software will work with a [wide variety of different remotes](https://kno.wled.ge/interfaces/infrared/). For this tutorial I'm using this [44-key remote from Amazon](https://a.co/d/aD8OJoR). ![sensors_44key_remote-2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/167/medium640/sensors_44key_remote-2.jpg?1700696734) ## Additional Tools & Materials - 1/4" thick acrylic sheet - you can use regular poured acrylic or [fancy edge-light acrylic](https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/chemcast_edgelit_acrylic) - Clear packing tape - Table saw - Laser cutter or band saw - Brad nailer or wood screws - Wood planks for the sign - Wooden signpost - Rope or chain for hanging - [Extra-long USB extension cable](https://a.co/d/3bC8w23) # Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## Wiring Diagram ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/159/medium800/sensors_tavernsign_wiring.png?1700688172) With the bump on the IR sensor facing you, connect as follows: - Left leg to Feather **D12** - Center leg to Feather **G** - Right leg to Feather **3v** From the IN end on the NeoPixel strip, connect as follows: - **+5v** to Feather **USB** (or to **BAT** if powering with a battery) - **G** to Feather **G** - **DI** to Feather **D13**   # Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## WLED Software ## Board Choices WLED runs on several different boards in Adafruit's collection. There are different benefits to each, but the installation process is largely the same. This page contains instructions for multiple boards -- be sure to use the pinouts and installation instructions for the one you're using, **Sparkle Motion** This is our flagship ESP32 board, designed with WLED and Xlights in mind. It has 4 outputs and is set up to drive either 5v, 12v or 24v pixels. It's a workhorse of a board and for larger projects it's the clear winner. It has an onboard microphone for instant sound-reactive support, and an IR sensor built in, to make it easy to control your project with an infrared remote. It also has a couple stemma ports so you can add your own sensors or peripherals. **Sparkle Motion Mini** The Sparkle Motion Mini is a smaller version of the Sparkle Motion board. It has two LED outputs, a microphone, and two stemma ports that make it easy to add an IR sensor or other peripherals. It's got an onboard NeoPixel and a small footprint, making it perfect for wearables or smaller projects. It will power a whole lot of pixels through the onboard USB port: it's safe to draw up to 4A through this port, giving you plenty of power for most wearable projects. Info: For Sparkle Motion Mini use at least the 0.15.1 release of WLED. **QT Py Pico ESP32** The [QT Py Pico](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5395) is small and affordable, so usually my go-to for smaller costumes or wearables. It also has a range of BFF add-on boards that add functionality. [Here's a guide with more QT Py info](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-qt-py-esp32-pico/overview). The QT Py will drive up to around 30 pixels through the onboard USB port, so if you have more LEDs than that you may want to consider the Sparkle Motion Mini instead, or you can power the board through the +5v pin. Note: WLED works on the QT Py Pico but NOT on the S2 or S3 versions, at the time of writing. **Feather Huzzah ESP32 ** The [Feather Huzzah ESP32](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) the top of the line. It's a great choice for projects where you want to add sensors, interaction, or drive a whole lot of LEDs. It's the most reliable as well -- I've run these for two months straight with no power cycling and they just keep on truckin. Adafruit has a very wide selection of Feather Wing boards that connect to the Feather microcontroller line. The sky is the limit with these boards. It also comes in a version with a high-powered WiFi range extender! If you're trying to sync multiple instances across distance, check this one out. [Feather Huzzah ESP32 V2 w.FL Antenna](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5438) **Feather Huzzah ESP8266** The [Feather Huzzah ESP8266](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821) will run WLED as well, but won't drive as many pixels: the ESP32 limit on WLED is around 1000 pixels per input, but the ESP8266 tops out at around 500. It's about $5 cheaper though, so for smaller projects it's a great way to save a little money and still have access to all the Featherwing options in the Adafruit store. ## Driver Update Some versions of our controllers have a new serial chip which needs a driver installed before we can install WLED. Head over to our [How to Install Drivers for WCH USB to Serial Chips](https://learn.adafruit.com/how-to-install-drivers-for-wch-usb-to-serial-chips) tutorial, and download and install the new driver. If you have an older QT Py with CP2102 USB-to-Serial bridge, [use SiLabs’ driver instead](https://www.silabs.com/developers/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers?tab=downloads).   ## Install WLED These next steps require a **_Web Serial_-compatible browser**. As of this writing, that means **Google Chrome** , **Microsoft Edge** or **Opera**  “desktop” browsers. Other browsers (Safari, Firefox, Explorer and _anything_ mobile) won’t work. Visit [https://install.wled.me/](https://install.wled.me/) Plug your microcontroller into your computer with a known good USB cable. Click "Install" and select the port for your board. Depending on the USB-to-serial bridge chip on the board, you might see one _or two_ serial ports. On Mac, for instance, there might be both “/dev/cu.usbmodem[number]” _and_ “/dev/cu.wchusbserial[number]”. Use the “ **wchusbserial** ” one. ![adafruit_products_Install_WLED.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/115/287/medium640/adafruit_products_Install_WLED.jpg?1663802069) After successful installation, enter your WiFi network name and password when prompted. This must be a **2.4 GHz** WiFi network; ESP32 does not support 5 GHz networks. If it can’t connect, then as a fallback WLED will create its own 2.4 GHz WiFi access point. ![led_strips_Install_WLED.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/601/medium640/led_strips_Install_WLED.jpg?1737574345) Danger: Sometimes the "Connect to Wi-Fi" prompt doesn't show up. Don't panic, just see the step below on connecting your computer or mobile device to the WLED-AP access point created on the microcontroller itself! If you don't see the "Connect to Wi-Fi" prompt, you'll need to set up your WiFi network using AP (access point) mode. Open up your WiFi settings and look for a WiFi network called `WLED-AP`. (Note, this access point can take up to 30 seconds to appear sometimes.) Connect to this network using the default password `wled1234`. The WLED interface will pop up in its own captive browser window. From here, go into **Config/Wifi Settings** and enter your WiFi credentials for the access point you normally use near the top. Give your project a name in the mDNS field a little further down the page. Now you can type in "projectname.local" (where "projectname" is your mDNS name) into any web browser on the same wifi network to access your microcontroller. You can also scan the QR code below to open access point mode.  For more help and troubleshooting tips visit the [Getting Started page on the WLED knowledge base.](https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/) ![led_strips_install_no_wifi.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/597/medium640/led_strips_install_no_wifi.jpg?1737574050) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/136/104/medium640/led_strips_Screenshot_2025-03-31_at_9.39.02%E2%80%AFAM.jpg?1743439611) ![led_strips_WLED_wifi_settings.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/598/medium640/led_strips_WLED_wifi_settings.jpg?1737574103) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/134/599/medium800/led_strips_WLED-QR-Connect-WB.png?1737574151) ## Setup & Preferences ### WiFi Setup Head to the **WiFi Setup** screen under Config and create a good URL so you can control your project from any web-enabled device. Call it something you'll remember, that's easy to type into any web browser on your WiFi network in order to connect to your project. In Safari or Chrome on your phone or computer, type in this web address to access the WLED interface: [http://projectname.local](http://projectname.local)  (where "projectname" is whatever you put into this field). Check out the Additional Settings page for more info on accessing your project. WLED has an "access point mode" that doesn't require a WiFi network for when you're out on the go. It's also helpful to download one of the WLED apps to help manage and organize your projects. ![adafruit_products_wled_config.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/115/288/medium640/adafruit_products_wled_config.jpg?1663802411) ![led_strips_adafruit_products_WiFi_Settings_generic.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/679/medium640/led_strips_adafruit_products_WiFi_Settings_generic.jpg?1722624553) ### LED Preferences Next, head to the **LED Preferences** tab under the Config menu. Scroll down to  **Hardware Setup**. Put your total number of LEDs into the "Length" field, and change GPIO to the pin number associated with the pin you soldered to. Check the pinout diagram for the board you're using (it's the number in yellow). - [Sparkle Motion Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion) - [Sparkle Motion Mini Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion-mini/overview) - [QT Py Pico Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/112309)  - [Feather Huzzah ESP8266 Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/46249)  - [Feather Huzzah ESP32 Pinout](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah32-esp32-feather/pinouts) ![led_strips_led_settings.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/680/medium640/led_strips_led_settings.jpg?1722624626) ## Use It ![adafruit_products_WLED_interface.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/115/394/medium800/adafruit_products_WLED_interface.jpg?1667150591) Now you can use any computer or handheld device to control your LEDs.  Make sure your device is on the same WiFi network as your board. Navigate to your custom URL (projectname.local/ ) in a web browser. You'll see a color picker above a whole bunch of color palette choices. Choose a color, choose an effect, and watch your lights animate and glow! Save your favorite combinations as presets, create playlists, control the speed and intensity of the animations, and lots more. This web app is incredibly intuitive and easy to use. Head over to the WLED wiki at [https://kno.wled.ge/](https://kno.wled.ge/) to delve into all the particulars. # Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## WLED Additional Settings ### Brightness Limiter Find this on the LED Settings screen. WLED automatically limits the brightness of your project so your power supply doesn't get over-taxed. The default amperage is 850mA, which is a little low for most power supplies. For some projects, especially battery-powered projects, having the limiter turned on is a good idea. But if you're not getting the brightness you expect, try adjusting this number to match the amperage of your power supply or battery pack. ![adafruit_products_brightness_limiter.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/127/565/medium640/adafruit_products_brightness_limiter.jpg?1707333888) ### Access Point (AP) Mode While you're home, it's easy to control your project over your local WiFi network. But when you're out at a festival you probably don't have WiFi access. It's still possible to connect to your project and control it using WLED's Access Point Mode. Turn your project on and give it a minute or two to start broadcasting. Look in your WiFi networks and find **WLED-AP** - this is a mini WiFi network being broadcast by the microcontroller. Connect to it - the default password is "wled123". An instance of WLED will automatically pop up and you can control your project from anywhere. If you're putting your lights up in public, it's a good idea to change the AP Mode default password so strangers can't log in and control your lights. This could be a security risk. AP Mode only broadcasts for a few minutes after you boot up the board so if you don't see the WLED-AP network try rebooting. ![led_pixels_apmode.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/129/081/medium640/led_pixels_apmode.jpg?1711986345) ### WLED App There are a couple different apps available to manage your WLED projects. Name and organize your projects, and find them quickly without having to type in a URL. Check the Apple or Android store for downloads.  My favorite is "WLED Native". It allows you to organize multiple instances and easily switch between devices without having to remember any URLs.  ![led_pixels_wled_app.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/681/medium640/led_pixels_wled_app.jpg?1722625769) ### Backup Config & Presets Under Config / Security & Updates you will find a place to back up your data. It's a good idea to back up your config file as soon as you're happy with the settings. Save it as a .json file on your computer. Now you can prototype and experiment to your heart's content, and if everything breaks, just re-upload this file. Or, if you're doing another build you can use this feature to copy all your settings from one board to another. ![led_pixels_backup.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/131/695/medium640/led_pixels_backup.jpg?1722904724) # Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## IR Remote Setup ## IR Remote Setup Click the LED Preferences tab and scroll down to Hardware Setup. Change the IR GPIO pin to 12, which corresponds to the pin soldered to the IR sensor, and select the remote you're using from the list. ![sensors_LED_Settings-2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/346/medium640/sensors_LED_Settings-2.jpg?1701219467) ## Remote Usage Save your favorite combinations as presets, create playlists, control the speed and intensity of the animations, and lots more. This web app is incredibly intuitive and easy to use. When you're in "solid" mode in WLED, the color buttons near the top of the remote will change the colors, making the pixels act like a "dumb" RGB strip. On my 44-key remote, there are buttons near the bottom labeled "DIY1", "DIY2" etc. WLED will automatically assign your animation presets to these buttons so you can select your favorite presets or playlists. Simply save the presets you want to the first 6 preset slots and the buttons will pull them up.  You will need to press the button marked "Auto" to switch to DIY mode on the remote. Press "Auto" then "DIY1" to play the preset saved to slot #1 in WLED. Head over to the WLED wiki at [https://kno.wled.ge/](https://kno.wled.ge/) to delve into all the particulars. # Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## Electronics Assembly ## IR Sensor Trim the sensor legs about halfway down.  With the sensor bump facing you and the legs pointing down, slip a red wire onto the leg on the right, a black wire to the middle leg, and a yellow wire to the leg on the left. Cover the connections with heat shrink so they don't short out. Solder to the Feather as follows: - IR sensor red --\> USB (if powering via USB) or BAT (if powering via the JST connector) - IR sensor yellow --\> Feather pin 13 Leave the black (G) wire unconnected for now. ![sensors_irsensor.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/160/medium640/sensors_irsensor.jpg?1700695846) ![sensors_irsensor2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/161/medium640/sensors_irsensor2.jpg?1700695880) ## NeoPixels To give a little more flexibility for placement, I soldered around 8" of wire onto the NeoPixel strip. This will give me some options about where to place the Feather board and IR sensor inside the sign.  Strip the 4th wire from the ribbon cable. Find the "in" end of the strip (labeled DI usually) and solder the striped wire to red (or the +5v pad), the middle wire to white (or the DI pad), and the remaining wire to black (or the G pad). ![sensors_neopixels1.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/162/medium640/sensors_neopixels1.jpg?1700695984) ## Feather Connect the other end of the ribbon cable to the Feather as follows: - Red (striped) wire to **USB** (if powering via USB) or **BAT** (if powering from the JST connector) - White (middle) wire to **13** You're left with two black wires - one from the IR sensor and one from the NeoPixel strip, which both need to connect to the **G** pin on the Feather. The easiest way to do this is to splice the two wires together with a third wire, then connect this wire to the **G** pin on the Feather. ![sensors_neopixel2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/163/medium640/sensors_neopixel2.jpg?1700696263) ![sensors_neopixel3.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/164/medium640/sensors_neopixel3.jpg?1700696414) Plug your Feather in to power. If all goes well, your lights will come on in a solid yellow.  Grab your 44-key remote and press some buttons to see if it responds. ![sensors_neopixel4.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/165/medium640/sensors_neopixel4.jpg?1700696474) ## Troubleshooting If the lights don't come on, or the remote doesn't seem to do anything, here are a couple things to try: 1. Open the WLED software and go to the LED Settings page. Make sure you have the correct pin (GPIO) entered here. The Feather is attached to pin 13. Be sure the pin number matches the pin you soldered to. 2. Also be sure you've chosen IR GPIO pin 12 in the WLED software on the same page, and that you've selected your remote from the dropdown. 3. Wiggle the connections on the IR sensor to be sure they haven't pulled loose. 4. If it's still not working, head over to the [NeoPixel Uberguide](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide) and try uploading some basic code, just to see whether the problem is with your wiring or with the software. If you can get the lights to come on using Arduino or CircuitPython, the trouble is with the software -- try reinstalling. # Edge-Lit Tavern Sign with WLED - Control with WiFi or IR Remote ## Build the Sign ## Wood Sign I wanted my sign to look old and weathered, so I started with some old redwood fence boards, carefully harvesting them from a derelict fence.  I trimmed them to the size and shape I wanted on a table saw, then ran them through a planer to get them to an even thickness. The laser cutter I wanted to use has a maximum depth of 1/4", so I planed them to 1/4". ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/169/medium800/sensors_rip_board.jpg?1700852634) My sign is 18" long by around 11" tall. I made two panels of this size and held them together with painter's tape, and printed out a mockup of my lettering so I could get a good idea of the sizing. ![sensors_layout.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/325/medium640/sensors_layout.jpeg?1701214690) Then I took them to my local maker space for laser cutting. I'd emailed over a vector file of my font design ahead of time, and they were all ready to cut it for me when I arrived. The cutting took about 15 minutes per side. Having tape on the back of the boards made it much easier to keep track of all the pieces, like the cutouts inside the "B" and "A", which will need to be glued back in later on. ![sensors_lasercut1.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/326/medium640/sensors_lasercut1.jpg?1701214792) ![sensors_lasercut2.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/327/medium640/sensors_lasercut2.jpg?1701214838) ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/328/medium800/sensors_lasercut3.jpg?1701214990) I cut two panels and did a mirror-image of the text on the back panel. The sign reads backwards from the back, but this way the light passes all the way through the acrylic from either side. ## Acrylic Panel I used 1/4" acrylic, since that is almost the same thickness as the NeoPixel strip. But what type is best? There's a product available from Tap Plastics called [Chemcast Edgelit Acrylic](https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/chemcast_edgelit_acrylic?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvJarBhA1EiwAGgZl0JBVdI4pbNVuTWIBBdFr_zarOHX5rs7g8frMtQHy0Z7Cqcr2pWhtyRoCFdYQAvD_BwE), which is around $20/sf. I already had piece of 1/4 extruded acrylic on-hand, which is a bit cheaper at around $15/sf, so I did a side-by-side comparison to see if the Chemcast was worth the price. Conclusion? I couldn't tell the difference between the regular acrylic and the fancy Chemcast version, so I'd recommend going with the cheaper / easier to find variety. https://youtube.com/shorts/Y-H88IpIGYs If you're building an indoor sign like I am, it's easiest to attach the LED strip with clear packing tape. Not much sticks to the silicone sheath but packing tape holds them firmly and invisibly. I wouldn't use it in an oudoor setting -- better to use Devcon Silicone Glue if you need something weather-proof -- but the glue is messy and hard to use, and the packing tape goes on in seconds.   ![sensors_03_packingtape.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/321/medium640/sensors_03_packingtape.jpg?1701213717) ![sensors_03_taped.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/322/medium640/sensors_03_taped.jpg?1701213790) In order for the whole surface to glow, we need to rough the acrylic up a bit. I tried a variety of different grits of sandpaper and found that the rougher I made the surface, the brighter the glow. 220 grit sandpaper seemed to work really well without leaving a lot of visible individual scratches. Sand both sides for maximum glow. ![sensors_04_sand.jpg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/323/medium640/sensors_04_sand.jpg?1701214284) ## Assembly I sandwiched the acrylic panel between the two sides, leaving room at the top for the microcontroller and IR sensor. I placed the sensor near the top of the sign so it could stick out a bit, and be easily picked up by the remote control.  I ended up hanging the sign really high in the air, and if I were to do this again I'd put the IR sensor on the bottom edge instead. Having it on the top makes it a little hard to reach with the remote. ![sensors_01_layout.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/329/medium640/sensors_01_layout.jpeg?1701215152) ![sensors_02_electronics.jpeg](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/330/medium640/sensors_02_electronics.jpeg?1701215259) I added narrow chopstick-shaped pieces of fence board around the edges of the acrylic panel, to block the light, and tacked in a couple of blocks near the top for more structure behind the hanging hardware. I tacked everthing together with wood glue and finishing nails. I plugged the USB cable into the Feather before nailing everything together. This design does not easily allow access to the Feather, but as long as the USB cable is in place I can reprogram it if needed. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/340/medium800/sensors_splashbar_finished_shop.jpeg?1701218663) I finished it off with a hand-turned signpost and 45 degree crossbar for bracing, and added a recessed lag bolt from the back of the mounting board into the post for added stability.  I used knotted jute rope to hang the sign from the post and threaded the USB cable up through the rope knots and through a hole in the signpost, where it hides inside a narrow channel cut into the top of the post on the table saw. ![](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/126/343/medium800/sensors_splash_bar_sign_dive.jpeg?1701218901) ## Featured Products ### Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM [Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 - 8MB Flash + 2 MB PSRAM](https://www.adafruit.com/product/5400) One of our star Feathers is the [Adafruit HUZZAH32 ESP32 Feather](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405) - with the fabulous ESP32 WROOM module on there, it makes quick work of WiFi and Bluetooth® projects that take advantage of Espressifs most popular chipset. 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In Stock [Buy Now](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4474) [Related Guides to the Product](https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4474/guides) ## Related Guides - [Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-esp32-feather-v2.md) - [Holiday Lights: Easy DIY Christmas Wreath & Garland with WLED](https://learn.adafruit.com/holiday-garland-decor-app-control-with-no-coding.md) - [LED Festival Coat with Mapping and WLED ](https://learn.adafruit.com/led-festival-coat-with-mapping-and-wled.md) - [Sound Reactive Paper Lanterns with LedFx](https://learn.adafruit.com/sound-reactive-paper-lanterns-with-led-fx.md) - [CircuitPython on ESP32 Quick Start](https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-with-esp32-quick-start.md) - [Adafruit NeoPixel Überguide](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide.md) - [LED Matrix Necklace Pendant](https://learn.adafruit.com/led-matrix-necklace-pendant.md) - [Garden Path Lights with WLED and a Sunset Timer](https://learn.adafruit.com/garden-path-lights-with-sunset-timer.md) - [How To Install Drivers for WCH CH34X / CH340 / CH341 / CH342 / CH343 / CH344 / CH346 / CH347 / CH9101 / CH9102 / CH9103 / CH9104 / CH9111 / CH9114 / CH9143 USB to Serial Chips](https://learn.adafruit.com/how-to-install-drivers-for-wch-usb-to-serial-chips-ch9102f-ch9102.md) - [CircuitPython Web Workflow Code Editor Quick Start](https://learn.adafruit.com/getting-started-with-web-workflow-using-the-code-editor.md) - [Networking in CircuitPython](https://learn.adafruit.com/networking-in-circuitpython.md) - [No-Code DS18B20 Temperature Sensor with WipperSnapper](https://learn.adafruit.com/using-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-with-wippersnapper.md) - [No-Code Battery Monitoring with WipperSnapper](https://learn.adafruit.com/no-code-battery-monitoring-with-wippersnapper.md) - [Severence-Inspired Lumon Bluetooth Speaker](https://learn.adafruit.com/bluetooth-speaker.md) - [Monster Matrix with WLED](https://learn.adafruit.com/monster-matrix-with-wled.md)