Howdy keyboard cowboys, are you surfing the information superhighway with a Pi 400? Want a cool heads-up display, or maybe you need to wire up some NeoPixel wetware...?

Cyber-warriors, listen up here! We’ve got with some zero-day unreleased hardware we just dumpster-dived. Now you can crack kodes, and write skripts with style, thanks to the CYBERDECK HAT and Bonnet for Raspberry Pi 400 from Adafruit zaibatsu.

Well, we just fenced 12 megabytes of ram and some angled socket header from the underground hacker club next to the chatsubo, and it's a major upgrade to our extender board - now you can jack in any Pi bonnet or HAT into the back of your Pi 400's skull at a cool angle, perfect for augmenting your deck!

We also give you two STEMMA (JST 3-PH) connectors on GPIO #18 and #13, and twin STEMMA QT I2C port plugs, for additional upgrades (cables sold separately)

This is the same hardware Kevin Mitnick used when he popped Sidewinder! Ok, maybe not, but it will definitely let you create a stand-alone Kali deck by plugging in one of our many display Bonnets or HATs.

Comes completely pre-assembled and tested so you don't need to do anything but plug it in. Works best with the Pi 400 computer.

The demo images show the Bonnet with one of our 128x32 OLED bonnets plugged in. Any bonnet/mini-HAT/pHAT etc should work just fine with the Bonnet as every pin is duplicated from input to output.

adafruit_products_CDB_CDH.jpg
Sizes are not to scale! The HAT and the Bonnet are the same width.

I2C Connectors

  • STEMMA QT - These are the smaller connectors on either side of the HAT and Bonnet. You can use STEMMA QT cables to connect up a bunch of different sensors and breakouts with no soldering or breadboard needed! (Cables sold separately.)
  • These two connectors are connected together in parallel. You can daisy-chain sensors and breakouts connected to them.
Top view of JST SH 4-pin to Premium Male Headers Cable next to US quarter for scale.
This 4-wire cable is a little over 150mm / 6" long and fitted with JST-SH female 4-pin connectors on one end and premium Dupont male headers on the other. Compared with the...
$0.95
In Stock
Angled shot of STEMMA QT / Qwiic JST SH 4-pin Cable.
This 4-wire cable is a little over 100mm / 4" long and fitted with JST-SH female 4-pin connectors on both ends. Compared with the chunkier JST-PH these are 1mm pitch instead of...
$0.95
In Stock

STEMMA (3-pin JST PH) Connectors

  • These are the larger connectors on either side of the HAT and Bonnet. You can use these to connect up NeoPixels and more with no soldering or breadboard required! (Cables sold separately.)
  • They are labeled with their pin numbers: 18 and 13.

Here are some accessories we recommend using with your STEMMA JST PH connectors!

Angled shot of STEMMA JST PH 3-Pin to Male Header Cable - 200mm.
This cable will let you turn a JST PH 3-pin cable port into 3 individual wires with high-quality 0.1" male header plugs on the end. We're carrying these to match up with our...
$1.25
In Stock
Angled shot of STEMMA JST PH 3-Pin to Female Header Cable - 200mm.
This cable will let you turn a JST PH 3-pin cable port into 3 individual wires with high-quality 0.1" female header sockets on the end. We're carrying these to match up with...
$1.25
In Stock
Angled shot of JST PH 3-pin Plug to Color Coded Alligator Clips Cable.
This cable will let you turn a JST PH 3-pin cable port into 3 individual wires with grippy mini alligator clips. We're carrying these to match up with any of our boards or...
$1.95
In Stock
Adafruit NeoPixel LED Strip with 3-pin JST PH Connector lit up rainbow
Plug in and glow, this Adafruit NeoPixel LED Strip with JST PH Connector has 30 total LEDs in a "60 LED per meter" spacing,...
$12.50
In Stock
Demo lamp connected to a circuit playground and a Stemma with alligator clips.
STEMMA plug-and-play parts make your next project soldering-free! This is the STEMMA Non-Latching Mini Relay. It gives you power to control, and control over...
$5.95
In Stock

Raspberry Pi Headers

On the top and bottom of the HAT and Bonnet are the Raspberry Pi headers.

  • The bottom is meant to plug into a Pi (works best with Pi 400!). They are at an angle to facilitate the Pi 400.
  • The top headers are to allow you to plug in a HAT or Bonnet. The pinouts are identical - just plug in any HAT or Bonnet!
Topdown shot of 2.23" OLED display PCB.
If you're looking for a bright, readable OLED display for a Raspberry Pi (most likely a
$22.50
In Stock
Blue polished finger touching the PiTFT Plus 480x320 3.5" TFT+Touchscreen for Raspberry Pi.
Is this not the cutest, little display for the Raspberry Pi? It features a 3.5" display with 480x320 16-bit color pixels and a resistive touch overlay
Out of Stock

Both CYBERDECKs include 2 general purpose 3-pin STEMMA connectors. One is connected to GPIO pin 18 and the other is connected to GPIO pin 13:

Each one of these has some additional protection circuitry in the form of an inline 1K resistor and a diode. The diode is connected to ground.

In general, this shouldn't be an issue. However, if those same pins are used for an attached display (or other item), then there can be potential conflicts.

One known conflict exists between the Pimoroni HyperPixel 4-inch and GPIO 18. This pin gets used as the SPI chip select for the HyperPixel. It affects both the touch and non-touch versions.

If you are having issues getting a Pimoroni HyperPixel display to work with the CYBERDECK HAT or Bonnet, then you may need to make the following modifications.

Option 1 - Cut a Trace

This is the potentially easier option since only a sharp edged tool, like an xacto knife is needed. However, this will permanently disable the #18 STEMMA connector.

To make this modification, carefully use a sharp edged tool like an xacto knife and score the trace here until it is cut through:

Option 2 - Remove the Diode

This option is best done using a soldering iron or hot air gun to heat up the solder holding the diode down. The STEMMA connector will remain connected, through the 1k resistor, to GPIO 18, and will still be functional. However, removing the diode will remove the protection it provides against putting 5V *in* to the STEMMA connector. So just be aware of that.

This is the diode that needs to be removed:

This guide was first published on Mar 23, 2021. It was last updated on 2021-12-14 13:30:30 -0500.