These directions are for the current “Gen 3” Cupcade kit.

Install the Arcade Bonnet atop the Pi GPIO header as you did during the dry run.

Plug one end of the 40-pin ribbon cable into the pin header on the back of the PiTFT.

Ensure the correct polarity. The white “pin 1” wire should run alongside the four buttons.

Do not plug the other end into the Arcade Bonnet yet.

The screen fits into two slots at the bottom of the speaker grille.

Depending which way you’ve installed the screen — horizontal or vertical — one “T-slot” will be located at either the left or the right side.

For a VERTICAL SCREEN: the T-slot should be on the LEFT. If it’s on the right, you’ve got the screen piece upside-down.

For a HORIZONTAL SCREEN: the T-slot should be on the RIGHT. If it’s on the left, the screen piece is upside-down.

Feed a nut into the cross part of the “T,” holding it in place between thumb and forefinger.

Bring the two pieces together and add a screw. This will pass through the plastic grille piece and into the nut.

Only one of the two speaker/screw holes is used, depending which way the screen is oriented. There’s only one T-slot here. This is normal and by design.

The quick-connect wires for the “A” and “B” buttons pass through corresponding cut-outs in the joystick support piece.

All the same connections should now be made as they were during the dry run…

  • Speaker wires connect to the screw terminals on the Arcade Bonnet.
  • Button quick-connects (4) go to the sockets along the same side of the Bonnet. They don’t need to go in any particular sequence, we’ll map that out in software later.
  • Four jumper wires from the joystick (Vcc, Xout, Yout, GND — Sel is not used) go to the Arcade bonnet ANALOG header (3V, X, Y, G respectively).
  • PiTFT ribbon cable plugs into the Arcade Bonnet stacking header, observing the correct polarity (white wire should be nearest the SD card end of the Pi board).

It’s a bit of a jumble, but all the pieces should be linked up now. You can even do another dry run if you like…really not a bad idea.

As we proceed through the next steps, you might need to disconnect and reconnect some wires to wrestle things into position.

The joystick jumper wires are especially susceptible to pulling out during the next phase. If you have a hot glue gun, not a bad idea to tack them in place at both ends.

This guide was first published on Apr 04, 2014. It was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

This page (Cabinet Part 2) was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

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