Use a wooden tongue depressor, disposible straw, or a straw-sized paper tube to create a little space between the tape and your hand. 

For your first layer, wrap the masking tape sticky side out. You can anchor it to your stick/straw to help you get started.

Wrap your palm mummy-style. (Don't make it too tight.) Then move onto the first finger. Remember to curl up your fingers to give them that ominous look.

Spread your fingers apart before going onto the next finger. If you're having difficulty using one long piece of tape, it's fine to use shorter pieces. In fact, you can slather on multiple pieces, like paper mâché. Just make sure to attach the new pieces to the rest of the taped area.

Go back and cover some of your wrist as well. When you have completely covered your hand with tape, start the second layer with the sticky side in. You can cover any small gaps with this second layer, or leave them in if you like that effect. Just make sure all there aren't any large gluey areas uncovered.

To remove the taped hand, carefully cut up along the tongue depressor or straw, as far as necessary. Gently extract your hand from inside.

Once the taped hand is off, you can fix any spots with additional tape -- but don't make too many layers so the light can shine through!

You will close the seam up later with more tape, but for now, leave it open.

You can also add more tape later, if needed, to even out the bottom so the hand can stand up on its own.

Adafruit LED Sequins come in packs of five, attached to a breakaway board. The pack recommended here has one of each color, but you can also buy a pack with five of one color.

They're nice because the positive (+) and negative (-) ends are clearly marked. Each LED also has an onboard resistor. That lets you use different color LEDs together without worrying about different voltage requirements.

The Sequins are not individually programmable, but you can turn them on or off or fade them in and out by varying the voltage coming through the pin on the CPX board. (See the MakeCode page to find out how to program them.)

If you connect multiple LEDs to one pin, they will all turn on, turn off, and fade at the same time.

The peel-and-stick conductive fabric tape is easy to use. Just cut the length you need, peel a bit of the tape off one end, attach it to the cardstock, and then slowly press the tape down as you peel off the rest of the paper.

The glue on the back of the tape is also highly conductive! You can connect two pieces by laying one right over the other and firmly pressing them together.

To prevent a short circuit, make sure to keep each line of tape separate. If you need to, you can cut the tape to make it thinner.

If a cut edge frays, make sure no loose threads are touching other pieces of tape! Tuck in any loose threads and secure them with tape. Use clear tape if you have to cover one of the LEDs.

Take a piece of cardstock and trace around the hand used to make the taped model. Spread the fingers so they match the taped hand.

Cut around the inside of the outline you drew, so that the tracing is skinnier than the taped hand. That way you'll be able to fit it inside the hand.

Square off the tops of the fingers and the spaces between the fingers.

The front of the cardboard base is the side that matches the front of the taped hand.

One the back of the cardstock hand, attach a piece of conductive fabric tape long enough to reach from about the middle of the hand to the bottom, bending it around the bottom and over to the front.

Then attach the negative trace for the first finger. Connect it to the main piece by overlapping it, then run it up along one edge of the finger, up over the top, and down along the front.

Since you need room for two traces on the front side of the finger, you may want to cut the tape at the point where it bends over to the front so the front portion is thinner.

Repeat with the remaining fingers.

When you are done, the back of the hand should look like a tree with five branches.

The front of each finger should have a negative trace running along one side. The "trunk" of the tree should bend up around the bottom of the hand.

Each positive trace will connect to an input/output (I/O) pin on the CPX board. The main negative trace will connect to a ground (GND) pad.

On the front of the hand, place the CPX in the middle and trace around it. If you are going to power the CPX board with the battery holder, the JST battery connector should be pointing down, towards the wrist. If you're going to use the USB cable to power it, rotate the board so the USB jack is facing down.

Next, mark the I/O pins you plan to use for each finger, from A1 to A7. Be sure to write the name of each pin next to it so you can match them up with the board later! In this example, the pins used are:

• A6 - thumb
• A5 - pointer finger
• A4 - middle finger
• A3 - ring finger, and
• A2 - pinky.

Also mark the GND pad you want to use.

Attach an adhesive dot to the back of the CPX board.

Attach the board to the marking on the cardstock, making sure that each pin lines up with the correct piece of conductive tape.

Use short pieces of conductive tape on top of the CPX board to secure each pin to the proper spot. Make sure the tape only touches the correct pin!

Lay the LEDs on the traces on each finger. Make sure the positive and negative sides are on the correct trace!

When you are happy with the placement secure them with short pieces of conductive tape over the ends. Press the tape firmly to make a good connection.

For added security, you can attach a piece of Z-Axis Conductive Tape to the back of each LED. This is basically a sheet of conductive glue that will hold the LED in place. It won't cause a short circuit because it is only conductive to the material directly below it.

The CPX gives you several ways to trigger your program. If you want to add touch control, cut a strip of cardstock and attach it to the bottom of the hand with clear or masking tape so it can bend up like a hinge.

Then run a piece of conductive tape from an unused pin (in the example it is A1) down onto the extension so it sticks out when the hand is standing up.

• Start simple. Make sure your light flashes on and off before adding complicated patterns or more actions.
• Use an on [button A][click] block from the INPUT menu to write your code. It is an easy and reliable method to start your code running, whether you are testing your code with either the on-screen simulator or your real-life circuit. After you've confirmed that the code works, you can change the kind of input or move the code to a forever loop.
• To make sure you code has run when it won't show on the simulator (like the external LEDs), or to keep track when you have several stacks of blocks going at the same time, add a play sound [ba ding] block from the MUSIC menu to your stack. Use different sounds for different stacks, or different points in the stack, so you know where the code is as it runs.
• You can add a comment to a block by right-clicking on it, then writing in notes to help you remember what it does.
• Give your program a name before you download it to your CPX, save it to your computer, or create a sharable link on the MakeCode website. That will help you find it later!

To simply turn an LED (or row of LEDs attached to the same finger) on and off, click on digital write pin [A0] to [LOW] and drag it into the work space.

When you "write" to a pin, you are giving it instructions. Digital instructions have only two options, off and on. In this case, off is labeled as "low" and on is called "high."

Click on the pin number and select the pin you want to program -- in this case, A2, which controls the light on the pinky finger.

Next, click on LOW to change it to HIGH. This will make the LED turn on.

Now drag and drop a pause [100] ms block into the stack.

Change the number of milliseconds (ms) to make the light stay on as long as you like. In this case, it is set to 500 ms, or half a second.

Finally, add another digital write pin block to turn the light off.

For testing purposes, add any play sound block. Then download and test your code to make sure the LED Sequin lights up!

If the first pin is working, repeat the process with the other pins, adding pause blocks to control when they turn on and off.

To set an external LED somewhere between "on" and "off" you can use an analog write pin block.

In the old days, you could change the amount of voltage just by turning a knob. With digital technology, the same effect is usually created by pulsing the voltage on and off repeatedly at a certain rate of speed. This is called pulse width modulation, or PWM.

The analog write pin block gives you settings between 0 (all the way off) and 1023 (all the way on). Use it the same way as the digital write pin block, but move the slider for the setting you want. For example, to make an LED gradually get brighter, create a stack of blocks and move the slider up each time, with pauses in between. To make it get gradually dimmer, move the slider down each time.

Note that the analog write pin block only lets you use pins A0, A1, and A2. The A0 is connected to the speaker, so don't use that if you want to add sound to your program. (It's probably best to avoid that pin anyway.)

In the example project here, the A1 pin was used for the touch control, so only the LED on pin A2 can be programmed to fade in and out.

The NeoPixel LED Dots Strand has connectors on either end. The male connector (on the left in these photos) fits inside the female connector (on the right). They make it possible to join multiple strands together for extra-long builds.

For this project, you will cut off one connector and attach it semi-permanently to the CPX. Then you'll be able to plug the other end in when needed and remove it when you're done.

To figure out which end to cut off, examine the back of the LED Dots. You will see markings that show which way data from the microcontroller flows through the strand. You will cut off the end where the data is flowing OUT of the NeoPixel.

Sometimes the markings look like arrows. In this example, the Dots are marked with the words "IN" and "OUT." The print is tiny, so look carefully!

On the strand shown here, the OUT end happens to have the male connector. But it can differ, so always check!

Take wirecutters, or use the blade part of the wire stripper, and cut off the connector at the OUT end of the strand.

Leave a short bit of wire at the end of the last Dot, just in case.

Also cut off the two wire ends on the other connector. You will not need them for this project.

To avoid a short circuit on the strand, make sure metal wires are not sticking out from the clear plastic insulation on the remaining ends.  You can cover the ends on the strand with electrical tape for extra protection.

Take the cut-off end and separate the three wires attached to the connector. You will connect each wire to pins on the CPX, but first you have to expose the metal wire inside the clear plastic insulation.

To do that, use the wire stripper to strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from the end.

Gently clamp the wire stripper around the insulation in the notch that fits best. Squeeze just tight enough to cut through the insulation but not the metal wire.

Then pull the wire stripper towards the end, hopefully pulling the insulation off with it. Do the same with the remaining wires.

Since the exposed metal wire is stranded and tends to unravel, take the end of each wire and twist it to keep it together before the next step.

Insert a bolt into each of the holes you are using from the top on the CPX board. Screw a nut on the end of the bolt underneath the board. Leave it loose for now.

Take the first wire and curve it around the screwdriver. Then hook the curved wire around the bolt, next to the nut on the underside of the board.

Use the screwdriver and your fingers to tighten the nut and bolt to hold the wire in place.

If there are any loose strands of wire sticking out, be sure to tuck them in so they don't cause a short circuit!

Do the same with the remaining wires.

The only thing left to do is join the two connectors.

Now the strand is hooked up to the CPX and you are ready to code it with MakeCode!

Before you can tell the LEDs what to do, you need to let MakeCode know where the NeoPixel strand is located, and how many LEDs it contains.

First, drag an on start block from the LOOPS menu onto the workspace.

Then go into the NEOPIXEL menu and drag a set [strip] to [create strip on [A1] with [30] pixels] block into the on start block.

If the strip is connected to Pin A1 (as it is in this example), you can leave that as is. Otherwise, change it to the correct pin name.

However, the strand only has 20 LEDs, so replace the "30" with "20" by simply clicking on the white space and typing over it.

To test that the NeoPixel strand is working, try one of the pre-made animations.

Just grab a [strip] show animation [rainbow] for [500] ms block from the NEOPIXEL menu and insert it in a forever block from the LOOPS menu.

Experiment with different animations or change the number of milliseconds it runs before it repeats.

To make your own animations, try playing around with some of the other blocks in the menu, such as the Photon blocks (which "draw" along the line of lights in the color you choose).

Put batteries in their holder and plug it into the CPX if you haven't already.

Then insert the paper circuit hand into the masking tape hand by carefully curling the sides up slightly around the CPX board.

Aim the fingers for the corresponding openings. Have patience! It's a little like trying to put gloves on a toddler -- there will be bent fingers and fingers in the wrong hole before you get it all sorted out.

When the cardstock hand is as far in as it will go, you can close the seam in the palm. Match up the two sides as best you can and secure them with more strips of masking tape.

If the cardstock "wrist" is sticking out the bottom, or if the bottom edge is too uneven to stand on its own, add more masking tape until the hand can balance on its own.

To start the lights and music playing, turn on the batteries, then touch the strip of fabric tape you connected from Pin A1 to the cardstock extension.

The lights will shine through where you placed them on the outline of the hand circuit inside.

If you also programmed the onboard LEDs on the CPX to flash, the entire palm will light up.

It's an impressive effect using simple tools. Enjoy!

To get the NeoPixel Strand inside the hand, start by inserting the end into the pinky as far as it will go.

Then gently bend the strand to make a loop about the length of the next finger. Try to keep the LEDs facing out. Insert the loop into the finger as far as it will go.

Keep going the same way with the other fingers. It should get easier as the fingers get bigger.

If there is any strand left after you do the thumb, curl it up inside the palm, with the LEDs facing out.

There should be enough extra wire where the two connectors meet to place the CPX outside the hand. That means you can use the buttons or the light sensor if you wish to trigger the NeoPixels!