The 1/2" plywood pieces will make up the sides, bottom, and top of the case.
First, we'll layout the panel mounting holes for the potentiometers, and on/off button.
Place the potentiometer on the wood to get the spacing correct, and then using a pen or scribe, mark the centerpoint for the potentiometer post.
Using a pair of pliers, you can bend off the small alignment post on the potentiometer. I usually remove these.
First, drill a small pilot hole where the mark is.
Next, using the 3/4" Forstner bit, slowly drill down on the pilot hole to remove material and allow the potentiometer threads to correctly have clearance to tightening with the nut.
You'll want to remove material down all the way to the bottom most layer of plywood.
To make room for the breakout board of the potentiometer, drill another overlapping circle from the first to the same depth. Use the knife to carve away any creases that prevent the board from fitting.
Then repeat this step for the second potentiometer.
The power button selected has a diameter of 16mm, so we'll be using a 5/8" Forstner bit to drill through.
First, mark the center of the hole with a pen or scribe.
Then, drill a small pilot hole all the way through the material.
Next, drill down 2-3mm with the 3/4" Forstner bit.
This will provide enough indent for the nut of the button. Once you've drilled down 2-3mm, use the 5/8" Forstner bit to finish the hole all the way through the wood. It's important to use this order of bits, because a Forstner bit requires the center point connect with wood in order to spin correctly. Trying to do it backwards is nigh on impossible without a drill press and a vice.
Use the 5/16" bit in order to drill the hole for the posts. Use the center point of the Forstner bit as the pilot hole.
Next we'll cut out the area along the bottom of the side piece to make room the the Pro Trinket. We'll be cutting out an area exactly as wide as the board, to accommodate any thickness of USB cable to keep the device charged. The height of the cutout should be approximately half an inch.
Using a pen or the knife, mark the outline of cutout. Then, using the hacksaw blade, cut along the vertical edges of the cutout until you've reach the correct depth. This is easier to do without a vice by grasping the hacksaw blade in your hand, instead of using a frame.
Once you've cut both hacksaw lines down to your desired depth, use the Stanley knife to firmly cut away the internal wood. It will naturally want to make a triangular point. Whittle, whittle, whittle.
But be careful, that knife is scary sharp.
When you've gotten the triangle down close to flat, use a pair of diagonal flush cutters to finish the job.
Conveniently, the salon emory board is the exact width of the Pro Trinket. Run it back and forth across the cutout to even up the edge.
Now that you've finished, use the edge of the cut piece to line up the Pro Trinket for marking the holes for mounting. Use a pen or a scribe, and then drill all the way through using the 1/16" bit.
It's time for the mounting holes! Almost all camera and video equipment uses 1/4"-20 threaded inserts and screws for attaching and detaching gear.
For this project, just to increase it's potential usefulness, we'll be installing a 1/4" insert in both the top, and bottom piece (in case you want to stack some lights, or a video monitor.)
Find the centerpoint of the top, and mark it using a pen or scribe. Next, drill a pilot hole. To minimize splintering, step up to a 1/4" bit and widen the pilot hole. Next, use the 21/64" bit and drill entirely through the piece.
Once you've finished, put the knock-in insert into the hole, and tap it into place with a hammer. You're done!
Now do it again on the other top/bottom piece. If you're feeling very industrious, you could also install on the untouched side piece.