CPX Wiring

CPX Wiring Setup

OK now it's time to wire up the CPX. Before we get started, its good idea to note which pads will be used. If you did use different colored wires for all of the components, it should be fairly easy to tell the connections apart from each other. 

Tinning Pads on CPX

To keep the wiring concealed and hidden, I ended up connecting the wired to the bottom of the board. However, it's a little more difficult because there are no labels on the bottom of the board. Either way, I tinned the pads with solder before attaching the wires.

Wired Connections

I soldered all of wires oriented "inwards", again trying to keep the wiring nice and neat. The pads are quite large so it was possible to attach multiple wires to them – Like the TRS and micro switch connections, also one of the grounds.

Plug In Power and USB

With the wires now soldered to the pads on the CPX, we can plug in the male JST connector and the male micro USB.

Final Wire Check

Here's the under belly. Good idea to double check all of the wiring to ensure we soldered everything to the correct pads. If you connected to the bottom side, you may want to flip back and forth and cross reference the circuit diagram.

Connect USB Breakout

And the last thing to wire up is the cable from the male micro USB connector. We saved this for last because we would not be able to thread either the usb connector nor the breakout board through the holes in the top.

Mount USB Breakout

With the breakout now wired up we can mount it to the bottom cover of the 3d printed box enclosure. Place the board over the two standoffs with the usb port facing the edge. Use two M2.5 x 5mm machine screws to secure the board to the standoffs.

Connect Battery

Now we can plug in the battery to the female JST connector that resides inside the box. Here I'm using a hefty 2000mAh lipo cell but you can use a AA battery pack. Plenty of room inside the box the AA pack.

Attach Battery

You'll need to attach the battery to the side walls of the 3d printed box enclosure. I used mounting tack but double stick or hot glue will also work. Depends on if you want a more permanent solution or not. Either way its no fun of the battery can jostle around in the box.

Closing Bottom Cover

With everything secured we can now snap on the bottom cover to the 3d printed box enclosure. Line up the bottom cover so the micro USB breakout is lined up with the small cutout on the side of the box.

Closed Case

The little hole for the USB port should be large enough to allow even the chunkiest of microUSB cables because it's fairly close to the edge of the box.

Install Knob (Optional)

You can attach your own knob to the shaft of the potentiometer if you'd like. I opt'd in for that large machined knob to match the largeness of the arcade button. This knob has a set screw for securing to the shaft – You'll need an M2 sized allen key to tighten the set screw.

Test Cover

It's up to you weather or not you want to cover up the CPX board. I didn't at first but I found the included button cover diffuses the neopixel LEDs quite nicely.  

Install Dome

Either way, you'll want to reinstall the dome back onto the top of the button housing. Firmly press down on the dome to snap the outer edges to the housing. It may require a good amount of force so don't fret if you think you're applying too much pressure. 

Last updated on Feb 13, 2018 Published on Feb 14, 2018