Here’s how to attach the NeoPixel sticks to the quarter 60 NeoPixel rings. Use two sets of third helping hands to keep everything steady while you solder. Header pins will help bridge the connections between pads. First we’ll need to tin the pads with solder and then slide a piece of header onto the pads.
Orient the PCBs so power and ground flow in the correct direction. Data-In should always flow to Data-Out.
We'll use standard sized header pins that came with the Adafruit Trinket. We only need about half of the header pin, so use a pair of flush cutters to cut them in half. Be sure to remove the header pins from the black piece of plastic.
Tin the ground, power and DIN/DOUT pads with a bit of solder. Then, keep the pad heated with the tip of the soldering iron while placing the piece of header on top. Use tweezers to place the header pins onto the pads. You don’t want to burn your fingers! Tweezers also help keep things sturdy.
Using header pins makes the connections much stronger than just solder. But always be careful handling the PCBs, too much flex and you’ll rip the cooper clean off the PCB.
The pads from the NeoPixel stick and quarter PCBs don't line up exactly, so you'll ned to position the piece of header diagonally.
Use tweezers to hold the header pin close to the pads and heat up the pads while sliding the header pin from one pad to the other. You can also position a pin in the middle of two pads and then press the iron on the pin to transfer heat to the pads.
Double check the data is flowing in the correct direction, from DIN to DOUT. Also double check power and ground on the NeoPixel Stick is correctly soldered to the NeoPixel Rings. You can easily short out a whole stick or ring if they are incorrectly aligned.
Measure Wires for NeoPixel Ring
Now we need create a set of three wires for connecing the NeoPixel ring. Lay the ring over the RingBody housing. Then, grab a piece of wire and see how long it needs to be to reach the neopixrl ring to the middle of the part as shown in the picture. We'll need to measure and cut three wires, for power, ground and data.
Then, use wire strippers to remove a bit of insulation from the tips of each wire. Next, tin the tips of each wire with a bit of solder. This will make it easier to solder the wires to pads on the NeoPixels. This also prevents strands of wire from fraying. Then, solder the wire to the pads on the NeoPixel PCB. Make sure it's the NeoPixel with the first Data-In! Use third helping hands to hold the ring up while soldering the wires to the ring.
Thread NeoPixel Wires
With the wires now connected to the NeoPixel ring, we'll need to thread the wires through the opening in the NeoPixel housing. Pull the wires all the way through and fit the NeoPixel ring into the housing. The PCBs should have a loose fit. Next, we'll work out how to secure the NeoPixel PCBs to the housing.
NeoPixel sticks have two mounting holes on the PCBs. We can secure the NeoPixel sticks to the housing with machine screws. We'll need to create mounting holes on the housing. Start by marking the mounting holes onto the housing using a marker.
Then, use a pro needle tool to poke holes through the markings. Heat up the tip of the pro needle tool to make it to make a poke. Don't make it too big! Small hole is fine for now.
Next, we'll use an M2 sized machine screw to tap threads onto the newly created holes. We'll need to do this for all four mounting holes.
With all four mounting holes created and tapped, we can then fasten the machine screws through the NeoPixel PCBs and secure them to the housing.
The Adafrut Trinket, Lipo Backpack and slide switch will be mounted to this part. Just like we did for the NeoPixels, we'll need to mark the mounting holes and use a pro needle tool to poke holes. Then, tap the holes using M2 size machine screws.
Place the components onto the mounting clip as shown in the picture and mark the mounting holes using a marker. Then, heat up the pro needle tool and insert the tip through the marking to punch out a hole. Then, tap the holes using a M2 size machine screw to create threads. Repeat this process for each mounting hole.
Do not mount the components to the part yet. We need to make wired connections before securing the components to the clip.
We'll need to create a set of three wires to connect the Lipo Backpack to the Adafruit Trinket. With the components layed out, hold a piece of wire over the them to guage the lengths of wire necessary for connecting the components together. We'll need two additional wires for conneting the slide switch to the Lipo Backpack. Measure, cut and strip each wire. Then, tip the exposed tips with a bit of solder. Next, we'll work out the best way to connect the components together.
The Trinket only has two available pins for power and ground. We'll need to connect several wires to these pins, so we'll "expand" them by adding new pins!
These Flexible PCBs are excellent for this. They're connected a lot like breadboards but they're thin and flexible. So we can use a pair of scissors to cut pieces.
We'll only need to cut two pieces of flex PCB. Each piece should have 1x3 pins.
Next, we'll need to attach the pieces of Flex PCB to the pins on the Adafruit Trinket. But first, we should tin the pins with a bit of solder. The best way to do this is to use a pair of tweezers to hold onto the flex PCB and then secure the tweezers to third helping hands. This way the flex PCB is secured without creating bite marks. Then, apply a bit of solder to each pin.
Attach to Trinket
With our pieces of Flex PCB now tinned, we can attach them to the power and ground pins on the Trinket. We recommend handling the flex PCBs with tweezers so you have better control over your placement (and so the heat from the solder doesn't burn your fingers).
Solder each Flex PCB piece to the BAT and GND pins on the Adfafruit Trinket.
Enable Switch on Lipo Backpack
To enable the power switch on the lipo backpack, we'll need to cut a trace. You can use a hobby knife to scratch off the trace as shown in the picture. It may take a minute or two of scoring to fully remove the copper trace.
Tin Pins and solder to Trinket
Next, tin all of the pins on the Lipo Backpack with a bit of solder. Now we can connect the three wires to the pins (5V, G and BAT) on the Lipo Backpack. Then, connect the three wires to the Adafruit Trinket. Connect the BAT wire from the Lipo Backpack to BAT on the Trinket. Then, connect GND to GND. The 5V wire from the Lipo Backpack connects to the USB pin on the Adafruit Trinket.
Wire Slide Switch
Next, we'll need to connect wires to the slide switch. We'll only need two of the three leads on the slide switch so go ahead and trim one of them off (either the far left or far right, but not the middle!). Secure the switch to third helping hands and apply a bit of solder to the remaining two leads. Now grab the two wires for the switch and connect them to the leads. Next, connect the two wires from the slide switch to the two available pins on the Lipo Backpack.
With our connections made, we can now mount the components to the mounting clip. Place them onto the clip and orient them properly. Then, fasten M2 size machines into the mounting holes and secure them to the clip.
The switch doesn't have any mounting holes, so we'll snap it into the little cavity on the clip. Position the switch so the actuator is accessable. Insert and press the switch into the cavity to mount it in place. Our components are now mounted and secured to the clip!
Now it's time to mount the clip to the NeoPixel ring housing. Lay the clip over the back of the NeoPixel housing. The clip has groves on the ends that allow it to grab onto the edges of the housing. Rest one of the groves onto the edge of the housing and squeeze the part until the second grove can latch onto the edge.
Connect NeoPixels to Trinket
With the mounting clip attached to the housing, we can now connect the NeoPixel ring to the Adafruit Trinket.
Solder 5V from the NeoPixel ring to BAT on the Adafruit Trinket. Then connect ground to ground. Last but not least, connect the Data-In from the NeoPixel to pin #4 on the Adafruit Trinket.
Again, we recommend using tweezers to help maneuver the wires into each pin.
Now it's time to fit the Lipo battery into the battery holder. First, insert the JST connector and cable from the battery through the hole in the housing, then pull the cable all the way through. Slowly slide the lipo battery into the protective housing.
If the tolerecnces are too tight for the battery to fit, do not force the battery inside! You'll need to either adust the slice settings or design file in CAD. The battery should slide in and out of the holder part with a loose tolerance.
Now we can attach the battery holder to the NeoPixel ring housing. Insert the T-slot from the battery holder into the grove on the back of the NeoPixel housing. Press it through until the t-slot and grove are flush. Then, connect the battery to the Lipo Backpack by plugging in the male JST connector from the battery to the female JST connector on the Lipo backpack.
Now we can attach the diffusion cover to the NeoPixel housing. Flip it over so the NeoPixels are facing up, then position the cover over the housing and line up the walls together. Press the cover into the housing so the walls join together. They should have a friction fit.
Install Tripod Thread Insert
Lastly, we can install the 3/8" to 1/4-20 thread insert into the NeoPixel housing. Insert the tripod thread into the spot with the protruding hole. You'll need to use a flat-head screw driver to fasten the thread insert into the housing. Fasten thread insert until it's flush with the surface of the housing.
Now we can install the swivel-head tripod adapter. Fasten the screw from the tripod adapter into the tripod insert. Then, position the screw in a right-angle and tighten the set screw to lock it in place. And that's it! Now we have a really nice lighting rig for our camera phone.