In the GitHub archive, you will find several STL files for 3D printing. There is also a Fusion 360 archive containing the entire design including board placement and wiring diagrams.

In the STL files folder, you will find 2 subfolders. One of them contains parts if you're going to assemble the case using M3 screws and brass inserts that are heat set into the plastic. The other folder is for a case design using #6-20 sheet metal screws that tap into the plastic case.

Within these folders, you also have other options. For example, in the M3 folder you will find case_m3.stl which is the main case and then two versions of the lid. One of them has a hole over the area of the IR receiver. If you are using the mouse and keyboard emulation and building a receiver dongle, then you don't need a hole for the receiver in the remote. Use lid_without_hole_m3.stl. If you are not building a receiver dongle, then you will need to put a receiver chip in the IR board and you will need a hole to access that, so use lid_with_hole_m3.stl. 

Similarly, in the folder named 6-20 screws into plastic you will find files case_6-20.stl, lid_with_hole_6-20.stl, and lid_without_hole_6-20.stl to be used if you're assembling the case using #6-20 sheet metal screws.

You should print also door.stl, and guard.stl. 

You may insert the brass heat set anchors into the main part of the case in four locations using a soldering iron and a heat set attachment. You should do this before mounting any of the boards. That way if you damage the case, you can reprint it. The small door piece should slide into the receptacle at the end of the case. You might have to file it a little bit with an emery board or fingernail file. There is a raised rib along one edge. That edge should go last. It will give you some grip to remove the door later. The notch goes at the bottom so that you could later pry it open with a screwdriver if the door gets stuck.

If you're building the dongle you should also print dongle_case.stl and dongle_lid.stl. All of the parts are provided in their proper print orientation. They can be printed without supports. We used PLA filament, but if you want extra strength, you could use PETG. We do not recommend ABS because it will shrink and warp and the electronic parts will not properly fit. Because different 3D printers have different tolerances, you may need to open the Fusion 360 file and make some adjustments. You can go into the user parameters and change Gap from 0.2 mm to whatever value best suits your printer's tolerances.

The image below shows the pieces for the dongle. They fit together using a snap fit mechanism and do not require screws.

Customizing the Case

Of course you free to design your own customized 3D printing case if you don't want to use ours. Also there are some options in the Fusion 360 model that will let you make some minor modifications to the case that we provided. If you open up the User Parameters dialogue on Fusion 360 you might want to adjust the following parameters:

• Shell: 1.6 mm The thickness of the walls throughout the case.
• Gap: 0.2 mm Tolerance between adjacent parts.
• Suppress_IR_Recv_Hole: If this value is 1 there is no opening in the lid for the TSOP in the IR board. Change to 0 if you want the opening.
• Suppress_IR_Learn_Hole: If this value is 1 there is no opening in the lid for the TSMP in the IR board. Change to 0 if you want the opening.
• Case_Screw_Hole: Use M3_Brass_Case_Hole or SM6_20_Case_Hole depending on screw type.
• CountersinkDist: Use M3_Sink_Dist or SM6_20_SinkDist depending on screw type.
• CountersinkAngle: Use M3_Sink_Angle or SM6_20_SinkAngle depending on screw type.
• LidHole: Use M3_Lid_Hole or SM6_20_Lid_Hole depending on screw.
• DoorGap: 0.3 mm tolerance for the USB cover door.

There are a number of other parameters that you can try adjusting as well. The names should be reasonably self-explanatory. After making these changes, you will have to export new STL files and print them.