Cut your NeoPixel strip to length so it wraps all the way around your acrylic circle.
Since this project uses liquids in proximity to LEDs, we're going to make this strip fully waterproof, in case our table leaks. Slip a piece of clear heat shrink tubing over each end before you start soldering. Later, we'll seal it up using hot glue and a heat gun.
Solder 3 wires to the IN end of your pixel strip, or connect to the wires that are already there if you're using a brand-new strip. Red goes to +, yellow to DI, and black to G.
For detailed instructions check out our How to Solder NeoPixels guide.
We'll splice the NeoPixel power and ground lines into our power switch cable. We could solder directly to the board, but drawing power for the pixels through the board can be problematic with more than 50 pixels. My project has 85, so I'm keeping my microcontroller safe by wiring power directly from the battery.
Cut the female connector off the switch extension, and twist the connector wires together with the red and black wires going to the NeoPixel strip. Slide a piece of heat shrink over the two twisted wires.
Re-connect the female JST connector to your twisted wires, and securely solder all three wires together.
Solder the IR sensor to the board with the bump facing up, using 3.3v, G and A0, which are all helpfully lined up next to each other.
Solder the yellow wire from DI on the NeoPixels to pin 13 on the microcontroller. You can use any GPIO pin here, just be sure to change it in the code if you use a different one.
Testing
Upload your code, if you haven't already. Plug your battery into the switch, and the switch into the board. Click the switch and be sure your lights come on. Grab your remote and press some buttons to watch the animations change.
Troubleshooting
If your lights don't come on, here are a few things to try:
- Check your solder joints. These solder pads are tiny! Even the littlest bridge of solder will make the strip not work.
- Be sure you've soldered to the IN end of the strip and not the OUT end.
- If you soldered to a pin other than 13, you need to change the code to reflect your pin number. Be sure they match.
- If your IR remote isn't working, check to be sure you've removed the battery-saving plastic from the battery compartment.
- Be sure the bump on the IR sensor is facing you as you look at the controller and check to be sure your pins are correct.
- Click the switch! With this wiring diagram, the lights won't come on unless the switch is in the "on" position, even if you're plugged in via USB.
- Try reloading the software and be sure you're getting readouts for your IR button presses in the serial monitor.
Once you're sure it's all working, slip a piece of clear heat shrink onto your LED strip. Squirt some hot glue into your heat shrink and position it over the open end of the strip. While the glue is still soft, use a heat gun to shrink the heat shrink securely to the strip. This will make a waterproof seal, so our bubble juice can't get into the strip even if our table leaks.
Seal the other end of the pixel strip as well.
Page last edited March 08, 2024
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