You can 3D print the parts using Translucent PLA for the blades and black for the handle details on desktop FDM style 3D printers. The parts can be downloaded using the link below. If you don’t have a 3D printer, the files are free to download so can send them to a 3D printing service.
The parts were 3D printed using the Type A Machines Series 1 Pro.
The design is modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360 and available to edit. You can adjust the pieces to print by moving or adding construction planes to cut up the parts . You can modify the sketches or adjust features in the parametric timeline.
3D Printed Parts
Our design a separated into six parts to fit on a 12 inch x 12 inch bed. The parts connect together using M2.5 x .5 x 8MM screws (or #4-40-3/8 screws).
Each half is then combined together and screwed down using twenty M2 x .4 x 12MM screws or #2-56x1/2 screws.
The detail overlays for the handle are glued on top of the left and right sides with a couple drops of E6000 adhesive.
This goes over the hole in the handle and it just press fits into place.
The sword on the top was printed on blue painters tape. You can see fewer hot spots. The matted surface evenly distributes the LEDs giving a much better effect.
The sword on the bottom was printed on a glass bed. We can see hot spots for each LED because it the glass bed makes the surface more translucent. You can always sand the part down, but a printing surface will allow you to diffuse the light without additional post processing.
- Nozzle: 0.34mm
- Extrusion Multiplier: 1.0
- Extrusion Width: 0.38mm
- Layer Height: 0.25mm
- Infill: 10%
- Nozzle Temperature: 230c
- Heated Glass Bed: 40c
- Print Speed: 80mm/s
- Vertical Lift / Retraction: 2mm
Thin Wall behavior
Make sure to adjust the nozzle diameter and extrusion width so we have three perimeters around the standoff for the screws.
We used a .4mm nozzle but had to set our nozzle diameter to .34 and the extrusion width to .38mm in order to produce a tool path with perimeters between the walls. This is especially important for the standoffs.
Heat the bed to around 40c (optional) and make sure that it’s absolutely leveled across the entire bed. In order to properly 3D print these large parts. It’s really important to have a perfect first layer, so make sure the bed is cleaned to ensure the filament adheres the to the bed.
While leveling the bed we need to find the sweet spot so that the first layer isn’t not too squished or too loose. If the bed's too close to the nozzle, the material may buckle. If it’s too high the bottom won’t have an even surface.
The main parts actually exceed the build volume on the Type A Machines Series 1 Pro. So, you'll have to orient them at an angle so they're positioned diagonally across the bed. This is a great way to get more build volume from your 3D printer.
Use 8mm pillars to support the four parts on the part that connects the blade to the handle. Add three pillars underneath each connection to assist the overhangs and bridging the parts.
Use flat pliers to help remove the support material. We can first insert the pliers between support lines and then grip and apply a bit of force to remove.