Assemble Right Blade


Two halves of the blade are joined together using M2.5x12mm long machine screws. We recommend using a long drill bit to make to long the screws to fasten as straight as possible. 


Battery Slide Switch


To power this project, a slide switch is wired to the double “A” battery pack.

To start, we'll first modify our 3xAA battery holder and wire up an slide switch inline with the power.


First, we'll carefully cut one of the wires and then extend each side  with two 87mm long wires. Next, we'll connect these two wires to each pin on our slide switch as shown in the picture. 


Remember to add heat shrink to each wire connection and the slide switch pins, before soldering!  

Crickit + CPX + Speaker

The Circuit Playground Express mounts on top of Crickit PCB with the included screws and standoffs. The assembled circuit is then secured with four M2.5x6mm long screws into the built-in standoffs near the center of the Blade Saw.  The speaker can be press fitted into the circular holder.

Slide Switch Mount


The slide switch fits into the little holder with the actuator on the outside.


Battery packs can be mounted next to the PCB with two M2.5x6mm long screws.


Measure UV NeoPixel Strip


The bladesaw is lined with NeoPixel strips and wedged in between the standoffs. Measure from the start of one side to the opposite side of the translucent wall. Cut away the excess strip to reuse on the circular wall around the drive wheel. 


Drive Wheel Strip


Position the UV NeoPixel so they are facing the inside of the drive wheel. This will help illuminate the inside of the wheel and blade teeth. 

Tin Strip


Next we'll need to tin both ends of the longer strip and then the start of the smaller strip.  


Female Jumpers


Now we can make it easier to detach the strips by soldering on female jumper cable to the three pads on the start of the long strip.

Connect to Crickit 


Male to male jumper cables can now connect the longer strip to the NeoPixel terminal on the Crickit. 


Solder Wheel Strip


The end of the longer UV strip will now connect the smaller strip we cut off. We used 150mm long male to male jumper wires to the end of the longer strip. 


Once solder, we'll want to align the wires against the walls so they don't block light or create shadows. 

Side NeoPixel Strip


Side Light NeoPixel strips are cut in half and then the second half is resoldered in the opposite direction to illuminate the other side of the blade. 


Locate the middle of the strip. You'll notice that its actually two strips soldered together. 


Use a hobby knife to cut into the silicone sheathing and then pull both sides apart. We'll heat up our soldering iron and then apply heat to the middle of the pads until they both desolder. 

Two Sided Strip


Next we'll remove the male wires from the end of the strip. We can the cut off wires to reconnect the strips with one half facing up and the second side facing down. 


Now we'll go ahead to solder short female jumper wires to the start of the strip.


Make sure to add heat shrink to protect the connections.  


Side Light Strip Jumpers


Three 150mm long male to male jumper wire will connect the strip to the A3, 3v and GND pads on the Circuit Playground Express. 


We'll first tin the A3, 3v and GND pads on the Circuit Playground Express and then use tweezers to carefully solder each jumper wire to each pad.




Prepare Handle Side Light NeoPixels


The section closest to the handle will require the same modification the Side Light NeoPixel strip. We'll desolder the middle section of the strip and then reconnect with the second half facing the opposite direction. 



Single NeoPixel


A single Breadboard NeoPixel can be wired to the end of the strip and used to fill the circular section underneath the Crickit.


Attach to Crickit


We used sticky tac on the bottom of the breadboard NeoPixel to attach it to the bottom of Crickit, right around "C" letter and the screw head as shown in the picture.


Handle Strip Mount


Next we'll place the strips side to side, making sure both sides are facing the opposite direction, and then fit them so the strips follow the contour of the various design elements as shown.


Motor Prep


The TT motor will require some preparation before mount. First we'll remove the small plastic nub next to the shaft with our flush diagonal cutters. this will allow our printed gear to fully fit into the shaft.




Next we'll carefully tin each metal connections on the motor. Two short female jumpers are soldered to each.


Mount Motor


Align the mounting holes on the motor body to the screws mounts on the blade. Insert and fasten two M3x25mm long screws until the motor is fully seated. 


Take note the screws will protrude through to the outer side of the print. We'll add screw nuts to fully secure it near the end of the build or right now to prevent any scuffing on your work surface. 


Attach Gear


The printed gear fits into the motors shaft and secured with a M3x5mm long screw.


Motor Cover


Panels are fitted inside to provide support for the chain while it’s in motion. Slightly squeeze both sides and press fit into place at an angle. 

Left Blade Assembly


Okay, half way there! The left side of the blade attaches with the same M2.5x12mm screws. 

Wheel Assembly


The Drive wheel spins with the help a a barring. We can press fit the barring on to the center standoff and then add the barring washer and M2.5mmx5mm screw on top to prevent it from detaching. 

Button Assembly


The buttons will mounts on the opposite side of the Circuit, so will use long jumper wire to make it easy to reattach if we need to debug.  


We used 220mm long female jumper wires. To make connections easier, we combined the ground connection into one wire by creating our own "Y" wire.


Button mount

We can inserted the button into the built-in holders on the inside. Insert at an angle as you press the button, to press fit into place.


Next, we'll need to bend the legs around the back wall to secure them in place.


Button jumpers


210mm long male jumper wires will connect to A6, A7 and GND on the Circuit Playground Express. 

USB mount


The Panel Mount USB Cable includes screws to fasten to. We'll mount it to the port opening on the side of the print.


Connect buttons and USB


We can go ahead and connect the male and female jumpers on the buttons from here. 



Ball bearings reduce friction and provide the teeth with a smooth surface. The standoffs for each will be tight if the standoff print thicker near the top. We can use a hobby knife, sand paper or deburring tool  to help carefully shave the top edge. 




23 teeth make up ehe chain. Its made up of linkages that are connected with rivets made from bits of 1.75mm filament. 


Wheel Attachment


The assembled drive wheel tightly press fits onto the center mount on the end of the left blade part.


Left Cover


An additional panel is fitted inside to provide support for the chain while it’s in motion. The left side is shorter, so will need to use an adhesive to attach it.

Closing Halves 


We can finally start to combine both sides! Bring both sides together and then tuck the excess button wires into the motor cover.


Fit teeth over Wheel


Insert the end of the blade at an angle with the drive wheel first. Align the chain on to the drive wheel as to close both side together.




Check around the sides of the walls to make sure no strips are protruding, this will prevent the sides from attaching. 


Will need ten M2.5x12mm to fast all of the sides together.


Don't use an impact driver as the screws will strip.

Motor Nuts

Now we can fasten our motor nuts if you haven't already. 


Various embellishments are glued to the outside. You can also sticky tac them on to test out the positioning of each.

Circuit Playground Reset button


The left circle greeblie has a port opening to allow our actuator to reach into the print to activate the rest button on the Circuit Playground Express. 


The reset button is used for flashing new firmware or when entering or exiting MakeCode code mode.

Handle Assembly


The Ninjaflex hilt fits of the tang, up against the shoulder. It has a tight fit, so will need to twist as we fit it into place. 




We'll measure and cut a 7/8th diameter dowel down to 347mm long. 


Fit the dowel into the shoulder.


Don't try to attach the dowel first as the it will become more difficult to align handle into the hilt. 



Pommel Assembly


Lastly, we can assemble the pommel circuit. We used a 12mm coin cell break with the on and off switch. Solder a 10mm LED to the SW and GND pins from the back on the breakout as shown.


Two rails inside the of the pommel allow the breakout board to fit in place. Position the on and off switch on the end tot easy reach and then slide the circuit into the the pommel.  


Fit the pommel over the handle to complete the build!

This guide was first published on Sep 12, 2018. It was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

This page (Assemble) was last updated on Mar 08, 2024.

Text editor powered by tinymce.